JohnA

I'm going to try changing the tubes. Anybody know a good place to get Svetlana tubes? John

Is the system for atereo or home theater? I'd pretty much say go for the Macs! You're getting them for a great price. They deserve a great preamp to go with them, on the order of a Mac or maybe Conrad-Johnson, or another great tube preamp. John

There is absolutely no such thing as time-corrected speaker wire! There is no way, in our universe, that wire can correct time, or in some way correct for a time delay. It's B.S. Somebody is pulling your leg. John

Ignore the power absorption rating of the speaker! It is not a very useful parameter and should NEVER be used in determining which speakers to buy. Buy the speakers that match your other speakers and turn down the volume at the first sign of distortion. You will be hard pressed to stay in a room with 100 watts pumping through any Klipsch speakers. John

There have been some factory tours over the years. I know of 2. It took a lot of persuasion to arrange the last one and quite a bit of insider assistance, too. Don't show up and expect to get one. There's a lot of activity and potentially dangerous machines in there. Klipsch can't afford to have an injured visitor or a distracted operator. John

Q, I rather keep my K-77-Ms for their hotter last octave. All 4 of my La Scalas came with K-77-Ms. John

Hi Q, We all have our preferences! I have one spring clip -V and I can't hear any difference between it and the solder terminal version, though. John

Are any of you willing to swap a pair of K-55-Vs for my unabused pair of K-55-Ms. I've finally gotten off of the dime and made the decision to swap them out. John

We've bashed the upgrade mungki to death. Search the forums for "La Scala". John

"Is there ANYTHING from Russia not filled with defects?" By most accounts, Svetlana tubes are not defective. I do hope all of their suitcase nukes ARE defective! John

Lack of bass from 2 different speakers in the same room is most likely a room mode or placement problem. No amp regardless of its design or quality will make a large difference in bass response (unless it's clipping). Room placement, OTOH, can make a difference of 10s of dB. Move something around. John

'dog is correct. Since the K-horns fire into the room at 45 degrees, the distance between them should be distance you sit back from the wall between them, pluss or minus a little. That puts you in the sweet spot. John

I'm sorry for your troubles, Ray. That's a tough way to have your feet cut out from under you, too! John

Danny, If I understand the schematic, the coupling caps are C4 & C5 and are .47 uF already. The power supply caps look too small compared to SS amps; 147 uF?! What about increasing those? I guess youd need to put it on a scope to check for ripple. John

Jeff, It is not bad to run a pair of speaker on each channel (left and right), no matter what the impedance of each speaker AS LONG AS you don't push the amp. Amps are damaged by heat. Heat is caused by current. Low impedance draws more current. The lower the impedance, the higher the current. If you limit the power output, most amps can be operated at 1 or 2 ohms. At 1 or 2 ohms, though, the safe power output (that keeps heat below safe limits) may be so low the amp may not be useful. That's why manufacturers state minimum impedance is 4 ohms, typically. John

What is the "Mon" upgrade? Where do I find info about it? Please post your results from the tube replacement. John

I have the opportunity to borrow a C-J Premier 1C tube amp. Just how good is this thing. Could be bought for $2k, maybe a little less. John

It won't hurt anything. It also won't increase power to the speaker. The A+B switch connects the A terminals and the B terminals to the same output point inside the amp. Therefore, it cannot allow more power out of the amp (unless, maybe, you are using itty-bittty 24 gage speaker wires). It is NOT biwiring unless you hook the A wires to one of the dual terminals on the speaker and the B wires to the other AND switch to A+B, PLUS remove the speaker's jumper bars. You ARE asking about A+B rather than L+R, aren't you (connecting L+R to the same speaker terminals would be pretty stupid)? John This message has been edited by John Albright on 03-14-2002 at 06:17 PM

Yee Hah! I'm glad to see the Heritage Line come back into production! I was quietly worried. John

Not enough information to determine what might be wrong. It sounds like a loose connection. For the best quality audio and video, minimize the number of components a signal passes through. For example, connect the DVD video directly to the TV, not through the reciever. There is no reason to send the video through a reciever unless your TV has only one input. John

"Speaking of Trey... If it hadn't been for him, many of us would have never met the Klipsch's. Trey... we're in your debt." That's true. If not for Trey the Pilgrammage to Hope would not have happened! John

I've never heard of a Type AA II. What do you know about it? When you instakk your Type AAs, disconnect one of the diodes in the KLiP tweeter protection circuit (they are mounted on the aluminum plate). They cause very harsh highs at higher volume. John

Let's confuse things further! The horn cut-off for the K-400 is actually 263 Hz according the an AES paper published by Mr. Pual. I'll bet the others perform in a similar way. John

My front channels are run by an HCA-1203A. Last night I swapped it back in, replacing the AV-8s. I like it better. The AV-8s have a haze to the sound. At first, I was thrilled with them, but as I listened, I heard things the shouldn't be there. I believe they are having trouble with my La Scalas' impedance curve (4.5 ohms at 55 Hz and 42 ohms at 2200 Hz). There is only one impedance tap and it's 8 ohms. Not knowing any better, I might have bad tubes. One amp is more distorted than the other and that leads me to question the tubes. As I learn more about tube amps, I may modify them. Initially, I wanted a kit anyway. I really wanted them to have "magic", but my conclusion is my 1203A sounds cleaner and sweeter. John

As of right now, DVD audio does not come out of a DVD-A player as digital, so an optical input on your preamp cannot be used for DVD-A. If you connect the DVD-A outputs of a player directly to a power amp you will have no volume control and the system will only operate at maximum volume; not good. To hear DVD-A you MUST have analog inputs on a preamp (or preamp section of a receiver). You may choose to use stereo analog inputs for DVD-A in stereo a I have. If you want to hear DVD-A in 5.1 mode, you MUST have a preamp with 6 analog inputs (and 6 analog outputs to go to the power amp) or a receiver with 6 analog inputs. John