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JohnA

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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. Monster Cable in the innards can't hurt, adds marketing cache and looks spiffy, so why not. It IS a perceived value-add by most consumers so the speaker price can be higher for just a little more cost. My experience has bee like Gil's; wire above a certain size for a certain run, even hand braided CAT-5, makes no difference. BTW, hand braided CAT-5 looks so cool I just couldn't take it out. It comes in colors, too, so braiding 3 pair of different colored sleeving would look tremendous and be equal to about 10 ga. I didn't hear any diference with it on my La Scalas. John
  2. Cool! Except for the giant suckout between 400 and 800 Hz because the basshorn can't reach 800 Hz and the mismatch between the basshorn and the Altec driver. I would like a 2-wat La Scala, though. John
  3. Who IS John Galt?! I need to re-read that novel. John
  4. The rich pay the taxes! The rich deserve the most money back and the most decrease in the tax rates. A couple of years ago a survey showed the a large part of the population thought the government had its own money! That's because the lowest 50% of wage earners pay only 5% of all federal taxes paid. I paid less than half of what cybergeek did and I feel sorry he got clipped so hard. We should ALL pay a flat 10% of whatever we make and there should be no deductions. If the federal government can't survive on that it ought to go bankrupt (or quit doling out my money, really). At least that way everybody feels uncle sam's blight, equally. This country used to stand for fair and equal treatment. John
  5. I disassembled my K-77-Ms and reassembled them through the hole. The first one went well, the second fell apart in my hands. I won't do it that way again. John
  6. Both NAD and Marantz make a CD/Receiver unit at about 40 watts/channel. That should be the trick for you. I think the NAD is a model L40. John
  7. The Jubilees we heard in Hope should really be considered prototypes. They used the pro bottom and the pro tweeter on a new horn. The Home Jubilees will probably be modified from the ones we heard. They will have an nice wooden tweeter horn using the pro tweeter driver. It will not have a squawker like the pro system has and the bottom will look just the same, but with wood finishes and maybe black like the pro version. They had a POWERFUL sound and the tweeter can throw a very good stereo image. A Belle made a great center channel speaker and I believe we used K-horns as the ultimate rear channel speakers! Gunshots made my pants legs move! John This message has been edited by John Albright on 06-04-2001 at 03:33 PM
  8. A Cornwall is only 2" deeper than a Heresey (15 1/2"). John
  9. My experience with 2 subs has been that they smooth out the nulls of each other and overall bass is better throughout the room. Mine are in each front corner. I can't see any reason to assume multiple subs should be inferior at all. John
  10. Don't the Heresey II and Cornwall II have the same Squawker and tweeter? Looks the same in pictures. If so, the HII would be a great match. I have a C7 mated to La Scalas and it is a good, but not quite perfect match. The C7 is smaller than an HII and is shielded, so it might be the best match if you have a direct view TV. John
  11. decibel man has pretty much made my points except for one. Sony's 9000ES DVD/SACD player is supposed to have a digital out for DD/DTS and a pair of analog outs for SACD. I haven't been able to see one, but there is no mention of a sub out for bass management. Nevertheless, My ACT-3 will take an analog 2-channel signal and do all of the bass management, prologic and other surround effects it's supposed to do. Surely these other receivers and pre/pros will, too. How do you feed your subwoofers with a tuner or VHS input? 5.1 DVD-Audio is another kettle of fish! John
  12. Probably the best you're going to get is the La Scala reviews on AudioReview.com. http://www.audioreview.com/reviews/Speaker/product_7739.shtml The Belle differs from the La Scala in 2 basic ways. The Belle's bass horn is wider and shallower, but is said to perform identically and the Belle's squawker horn is shorter. The La Scala uses the K-horn's K-400 (400 Hz) horn and the Belle uses a unique K-500 (500 Hz) horn. Since the crossovers have been the same for most of their lives, there should be little difference in their sound. If there is any, it would be because the K-500 is operated closer to its cut-off frequency than the K-400. John
  13. I think the Outlaw 1050 looks like a great buy. You should get it. If it has weaknesses, I'd say the power supply is too small (power ratings fall with more channels driven), but you won't see that as a problem with Klipsch speakers, if you want to keep your hearing. The S/N ratio in the tuner section could be a little better, too. However, for $500, you can't touch it anywhere else, it seems. Go for it and save the $200 left over for books! John
  14. I got some darned good catfish from West Memphis, AR. Is that what you mean? John
  15. That Rotel CD player may also be your weak link compared to your other electronics. John
  16. I think you need "The Horns" (Klipschorns), but that's about it. John
  17. Well, I got the joke! Your friend's La Scalas probably have a K-55-V squawker (midrange) driver. It should be grey and about softball-sized. That is the squawker driver I prefer. Since they won't fit in his entertainment center, he really need Doug's help. I know Doug and he will give them a good home. John
  18. Well, Max, You've spoken well and have described my experience with K-horns perfectly. I have La Scalas and 2 subwoofers in an attempt to achieve the same thing in a room not designed for "The Horns." I get close. The experience of hearing the music in the room, without speakers, is the reason Klipsch speakers exist. John
  19. I've purchased several items off of ebay. I've never been burned, but I used iescrow.com for all big ticket items I didn't pickup myself. My last pair of La Scalas were $446 through ebay (plus a $50 stupid tax speeding through Columbia, SC). If you know what you want and what it is worth, don't be afraid. Use a service like iescrow.com and don't get bidding fever and you'll make out. John
  20. Damping the horns will probably reduce their silibance (sp), some. John
  21. I believe these will meet your needs. Some of them are even "Klipsch" Products. I'm certain the Aragon will meet any sonic standard you'd want at $1200. The Acurus preamps can often be bought at a small discount. http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/mondialdetail.asp?frame=y&id=305&line=&1 http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/mondialdetail.asp?frame=y&id=304&line=&1 http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/mondialdetail.asp?frame=y&id=318&line=mondial&1 http://www.parasound.com/products/preamps/pld1100.html http://www.bkcomp.com/preamp.html I couldn't get a price on the B&K, but I suspect it is about $1k or less. These are all 2-channel. You're not going to get much HT Pre/Pro for <$1500 new. A used Pre/Pro would be in your range. John
  22. Generally speaking, a vaulted ceiling is a good thing. It breaks up standing waves (resonance). I like the double sheetrock walls, can't be much more expensive and will greatly stiffen the wall, plus reduce sound transfer into and out of the room. Multiple block bridges between the studs would be a good idea, too. The "blocks" are usually made from scrap lumber. Stop adding blocks when the cost is noticible. Just one is a satisfying improvement. I'd say 3 or more, all around the room, is overkill. jmon's corners were a special case. John
  23. Hi, Bev! The first thing is to change the room size. 20 x 20 will be great to set up a resonance (standing waves) in the bass that is equal to the 20 foot length; about 55 Hz. You want to avoid any dimension that is an integer multiple of another dimension; like 8 x 16 x 24 (1:2:3). If you will make one wall out of square, you will just about garauntee no resonance. Try a room that's 18 x 20 x 22 x 20.4 feet, for instance, that's one non-parallel side wall. Two non-parallel side walls looks even cooler, like an auditorium and works better. The triangles made by the angled walls become closets. Insist all 4 walls of this room, plus the ceiling and floor have at least one row of "block bridging" per 8' of stud or joist. Block bridging is a 2-by whatever brace nailed between the stud or joist about in the middle of the 8' span. It stiffens the wall a lot without costing much money. Don't accept steel straps, they don't work much. Make sure the 2 x 4 studs get covered on both sides with sheetrock or some sort of paneling (normal) to further ensure their stiffness and insulate all of the walls, ceiling and floor of this room with fiberglass (only abnormal in the interior wall(s)). You want to make the room as non-resonant as reasonably possible and use carpet and wall treatments (curtains, acoustic panels or Persian rugs) to control reflections. IMHO, more than this, like diffusers, is getting obsessive/compulsive, but can improve the sound of your room. John
  24. I would think flexible walls and floors would make the bass muddy by setting up resonance at some frequencies and not others. Placement in the room and its dimensions will cause peaks and nulls in the bass, so that some places have too much and others have none. John
  25. Use C weighting and slow response. Sit in your favorite spot and activate the pink noise generator. With the meter pointed at the TV and slightly up, set the output of all channels to the same level. Since you are not using the LFE outs, set the sub by playing music and adjusting the sub so its output is the same as the main speaker's woofer. Hold the meter close to the drivers to get a reading. Then tweak by ear. John
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