JohnA

Klipsch tests every component and/or speaker. In the early days, particularly with the T-35/K-77, it has been said each one was tested and sorted and some sent back. From that, we can infer the better performing drivers MAY have been installed in the more expensive models, like the Klipschorn. There were also different crossovers in the " W" series that may have been an attempt to accommodate driver performance. Only Jim Hunter and Wooly Mammoths were alive back then. 😆. The short answer, now, is a K-77-? and a K-55-V/X and a K-33-? can be exchanged for any other, though there are some subtleties that may make you refrain from swapping some, particularly the woofers. Were you to have enough drivers and the test gear you could cull the lower performing examples, too.

The graph published by Mr. Paul in the Audio Engineering Society is this. In my room, mine did not make it much above 14 kHz, but neither do my ears.

Should be a good choice! They should pair well with a 2270. That was a transition period and we have nicknamed them Heresy 1.5s. They likely have H II squawker drivers. You'll have to try in your room, but I'd expect them to sound best near a wall, but not too close to the corner (affects male vocals too much). I liked running a subwoofer with my H Is. (If you can hear a subwoofer, it is 10 dB too loud.).

You could use the keyholes to attach a bracket that holds them off the wall.

What I'd do is put the 4.2s in the front, put the 4.5s as rears, use the R14ms as rear fills (or in another room for stereo) and spend my money on 2 or more subwoofers. More sub's means less distortion and more even coverage in the room, not the mention the power available when the depth charges go off!

While the magnet could shift and ruin a compression driver, normally, the voicecoil in the diaphragm opens and the fix is easy for a trained tech. It is equal to reconing a woofer. NB: the K-55-V/X and K-55-M diaphragms are quite similar and some have said the -V (Atlas) diaphragm can be modified to fit a -M, they are NOT the same. $200 sounds like way too much for a K-55-M. Newer tweeters that flush mount the tweeter mouths will be a nice upgrade. You will hear that. Send me a PM. Listen a while once they're fixed. At that age, they may be ready for new capacitors. La Scala's are not polite and "laid back". They live and breathe in the room with you.

Ace Hardware should have what you need.

Inside braces, offset a little, make the most sense from the engineer's point of view. Second is to add 6mm or so to the outside of the sides of the bass horn. The addition must be fully glued and should be anchored with a few screws or nails so it fully bonds to the horn walls. That's a lot of weight for the improvement. The rest of the bass horn is well braced and needs nothing added. Had I realized, I'd have added the inside braces before finishing. Since they don't misbehave until I recreate a rock concert, I don't worry about the resonance. I did have a 19mm x 19mm strip of solid cherry added to the front edge to cover the edge plys, maybe that helps.

Yup. That's why Heresies, Cornwalls, Belle Klipsch, Fortes, Chorus, Reference Premier, Reference and Synergy, at least, are raised off the floor with a cavity and/or feet. You know, the 5th law of robotics!

A real Garage Sale! I bought a pair of Birch cabinet kits from Parts Express for PA speakers. Well, the need and usage has disappeared and I've had these taking up space in my climate controlled garage for years. Time to go. Included is a pair of steel mesh grille covers. The kits are cut for a 12" woofer and have plenty of room for a K-700 to make a 2-way Pro Heresy-like speaker. They are made from 13-ply Birch. https://www.parts-express.com/PA-Knock-Down-Trapezoid-Plywood-Speaker-Cabinet-for-12-Driv-245-324?quantity=1 They are nor currently available and may or may not be offered again. I waited several years to find these, again. they are still in the original PE shipping boxes. $225 shipped to CONUS.

Important? Sure, it's a boundary layer that reflects bass energy, but a few inches are irrelevant. The Klipschorn's bass horn works a little differently, the walls and floor are an imperfect part of the horn. The mass of the Klipsch "Big 3" negates the need for spikes and heavy stands. The moving mass of the woofer is so small in relation to the speaker, it will not cause cabinet movement. The old Rat Shack Mach 1 was a perfect example of light cabinet/heavy woofer needing an anchor.

I don't like the look of casters. However, the wavelength of bass notes, compared to 3" or 4" a set of casters will raise the bass horn make it a "no never mind". Install your casters, if you want, without fear.

We are the last people that would want wireless speakers. Still, there are kits out there. https://www.amazon.com/DYNASTY-PROAUDIO-Amplifier-Selectable-Switching/dp/B08J8CJJTR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wireless%2Bspeaker%2Bconversion%2Bkit&qid=1685568626&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1 https://thehometheaterdiy.com/make-regular-speakers-wireless/

You need at least 1 watt/channel. Really. Any of them are rated to absorb 100 watts. In the later of the original Heresies, they will probably suffer woofer damage before the tweeter and squawker are hurt. Fear not. Having run mine with 25 to 140 watt amps, a good 25 to 40 watt amp is plenty.

Never. That is the antithesis of everything I want from my audio system. If the recording sucks, play another one. Get the DVD-A version of it.

Still not as big as mine, Marvel.

DO NOT use a 9V battery to test a tweeter. And when testing a tweeter, keep one lead moving so it never sees DC, but gets a series of pulses that cause a scratching sound. Use only a 1.5V battery on tweeters and then, it's best only to test it in lieu of an ohm meter. 1.5V is also plenty to verify the polarity of a woofer. 9 volts across a tweeter is 10 watts, if the battery can supply the current. Many tweeters cannot tolerate 10 watts.

If you have nothing to complain about, you have nothing to do. With such new speakers, there is likely no objective improvement possible. Were they 40 years old, .... we could talk.

I have several K-77s, $75 + shipping from 37343. Assume 4 lbs and a 6" cube for each. I have 2 K-55-Vs, $100 each + shipping. One is a spring terminal and the other is a solder terminal, but it has a rub/ring after having the diaphragm replaced. Assume 6 lbs and an 8" cube for each. These were my back-ups that I'm sure I'll never need, now.

Location? Which tri-state?

I think so. Which crossover do the 1.5s have? That will help determine whether the K-52 has as much output as a K-55-V.

As in the old Type A Klipsch crossover, a 9 kHz theoretical crossover point is needed to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. Don't change it. What is the DCR of the tweeter? What happens if you use a 1.5V battery across its leads, rubbing one lead? Is its output similar to the woofer tested the same way?

My VMPS subwoofers are tightly stuffed with fiberglass that looks like insulation grade fiberglass. It's yellow. https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/avid-thread.116894/ The OEM tweeter description sounds like the tweeter in Marantz Imperial 7s among others. Not sure how to id the OEM CTS woofer, unless Eminence has old CTS data.

The woofer is modelled (or trial and error tested in the old days) for its frequency response with a certain amount of damping material. The material makes the box volume behave as though it is different because it changes its "springiness". As though it is larger, I believe.