edwardre

No John, it is YOU who 'don't get it'. Regardless of 'the myths, the legend, the man' and his quest for the ultimate in sonic perfection, I have been operating on a much more fundamental level.....that being to provide input as to what sounds better TO ME, IN MY LISTENING ENVIRONMENT. Nothing more, nothing less. I don't give a rat's rumpus what 'should' sound this way or that way, how this driver 'is suppose to' sound better than that driver because the final analysis is purely subjective and "should-be's" only serve to pollute the 'ear test'. I might also add that every person who has sat in my listening room and likewise previewed the different drivers also came to the same conclusion, that there is NO comparison between 'pre-60's' and 'post-60's' Khorn sound. IM(and all of our collective)HO's, the 'pre's' simply SOUND BETTER. WRT PWK, I have never had the pleasure of a face to face or even a 'ear to ear' via phone. However, my father has and he just gushes on about the man. Everything you, HDBR and a host of others fortunate enough to speak personally with him all relay with equal enthusiasm regarding just how special THE MAN, PWK was. You all should consider yourselves very fortunate indeed. ------------------ Ed

Now John, of course PWK would have said "that the K33E produced the most *natural sounding* bass he heard yet in the folded unit." No disrespect to the man's integrity, but do you really think he's going to say something other than that when bottom line is selling product? Come on! Ha ha ha! The thing that makes a forum work are the diversified perspectives of the members within. Regardless of the 'techno-measurements' that folks like to spout profusely, and despite the personal attributes of the company owner(s) is the real bottom line.....how does this unit sound to me in my listening environment. It is the 'unscientific testimonials' that I personally look for in a post. I can dig specs out till the cows come home, but they do not speak of the intangible qualities that most listeners look for especially when comparing the sound of one known speaker sound to that of a potential alternative. Deriding a person's character for unconventional thinking then implying that because the person thinks differently signifies the total inability to produce a speaker that pleases, tends to reduce the weight one places upon the opinion. Keep in mind that world history is based upon radical, unconventional, and at times seemingly ludicrous bass akwards concepts..... ------------------ Ed

OK Mike, I checked it out again last night to get the particulars. With the DVD-A disk out of the unit, I invoked the DVD player's menu. This is a 'file folder' looking screen with several tabs across the top. The first one (from left to right) is as you say 'DISK'. Then there are several more...'VIDEO', 'AUDIO', 'DISPLAY', and finally, all the way to the right there is a tab named 'OTHERS'. It is within this tab that there is a 'VIDEO ONLY' selection. Set that to on then pop in the disk. ------------------ Ed

One man's junk.......could have been traded for another's junk.....I would have given 2 pristine K33's for them, to me THEY'RE junk....... ------------------ Ed

Mike - The only one that worked like that for me was the Eagles Hotel CA DVD-A. That's with my Panasonic as well, but it's not a RP91....it's a RA60. I think both our players are similar though mine doesn't have the progressive scan and the Auto1,2,etc features. There is an option in the 'general' tab (I think) that speaks to video mode. I can access the DD and DTS playlists if I set this to 'on' and 'force' the player to view the DVD as a DVD-V, like Jeff said. ------------------ Ed

KJ - I have the exact same setup you've just purchased. Have had both PAS and ST-70 for years in the garage collecting dust and like you, based upon rave reviews on this board, have decided to put it in service to see what the fuss is all about. My plan is to listen to 2-channel music (primarily CD's) with the tubes and reserve the HT experience for my SS. BTW - my HT receiver is also like your's, the Denon 3802. The Dynaco setup was my fathers, so other than early life exposure, I really had no firm opinion compared to the Denon. About 2 months ago, after several self-induced setbacks, I finally got the vintage gear up and running. I am powering Khorns. My first impression is that the sound is very warm and full, without the 'treble-lacking' that the term 'warm' is usually associated with. Overall, I found the tube sound to be very engaging, to the point that it really didn't matter what the subject material was (to a point!), I just wanted to listen to it to hear the delicate harmonics and sonic 'blend' that I all the sudden realized was lacking from my Denon. This is not to put down the 3802. Prior to the 3802 I had a Denon 1701. The difference from that unit to the 3802 was very pronounced. I find the 3802 to be warm as compared to the older 1701, so the ST-70 was not a HUGE leap from the 3802. They are both rather similar in sound with the ST-70 taking 'warm and engaging' to the next plateau. My tube nirvana lasted about a week then the ST70/PAS combo started to develop problems which I associated with extended periods of lethargy. Static, popping, and other distractions plagued the listening experience to the point of unbearable. I am currently in the midst of complete overhauls of both units, having experienced enough positives to warrant continuation of the pleasure tubes can bring. After gleaning tips from this BB, as well as surfing the net for info, I decided to first 'beef-up' the PAS. I have since replaced all the original caps with Sprague 'orange drops', which were available to me here at work for a song. I have also replaced the rear RCA Phono Jack connectors with updated ones (mine were really corroded). Resoldered most of the solder joints and of course, cleaned the pots. I am now 'burning-in' the caps by outputting to a Bryston 2-channel amp in the garage workbench area whilst I complete the ST-70 mods. I can tell you that replacing those aged caps as well as the few other tweeks made a tremendous difference in response. Bass is tighter and sound 'recovery' is much more quick. Additionally, there are no more pops and scratches. It appears to now be reliable. WRT the ST70, I'm smack-dab in the middle of applying the Van Alstine DIY mod detailed on their website referring to the '1982 Audio Basics Complete Rebuild Plans'. Additionally, I have likewise replaced the old Dynaco-labeled caps with Spragues and have replaced the input jacks and output terminal strips. I am eagerly awaiting completion so I can really test this guy! From all the input I've received, we have a very highly regarded 'tube introductory system' that is user upgradable. Seems to be a reason that the ST-70 has been around for so long. I think you'll be very pleased as even dead stock, the sound is perceptably better than the 3802. Have fun! ------------------ Ed

John - I would be delighted to relieve you of those EV15WK's should you be interested. ------------------ Ed

Mike - When I got my adapters, I had to contact Atlas to get the number of a local dealer to get them. They cost about $25 each. The 'ringing' I thought I heard seemed to be more of a quality of the overall sound rather than a 'certain freq' or loudness ring. If you 'ping' the 511 with aomething metel, you can get an idea of the sound I had talked myself into thinking I heard. I thought you wanted to dampen the throat area as well as behind the flanges, but thinking about it, Tom's suggestion seems to make sense. In any event, I'm sure I don't hear ringing anymore....Oh, and 'yes', I did use rope caulk. Stays put but also is easily removeable. ------------------ Ed

Taylor - There are a few subtle differences in the bass bins. The 2 biggest differences are that the Georgian has the woofer access hatch in the front and the Klipsch has the access hatch on the side. Neither affects the sound, IMO. The other difference is not so much a difference between EV and Klipsch, but in the era built. Current (from about 1960 on) Klipsch build is with a 3" throat aperture. Earlier models as well as the Georgian have a 6" (or larger) aperture. The K33 is designed to play through the 3" throat. If you build the Georgian to spec, my advice would be to seek out a EV15WK or a Stephens Trusonic 103LX2 woofer. These were the predominant engines used for this throat design. Of course you could build it with a 3" throat and mount a K33, but IMHO, there is no comparison between the K33 and the EV/Stephens drivers. To me, they DO sound very different. The EV/Stephens units have far more pronounced, deep bass. Would be cool if you post pics as you go through your project! Good luck. ------------------ Ed

Mike.....I too like the exposed horn look. The only problem I encountered was the inability to effectively dampen the bejesus out of the 511 and still maintain the WAF...... ------------------ Ed

The adaptor you want is available from Atlas (www.atlassound.com). Atlas part number is: DA-FH, on page 38 of their 2002 catalog. Mike....they will definately fit in the La Scala upper cabs. Just need to jockey a bit. If they fit in my Belle's.....you will probably have to do something similar to what I did. Well....on the other hand, are La Scala uppers removable? Now that I think on it I guess probably not. However, I think you will still have enough room if you remove the top and bottom mounting flanges. ------------------ Ed

Welcome to the forum. If you're really adventurous, remove the back screws and pop it open. You will be able to see on the crossover network which is pos and neg, and which corresponding 'outboard' connector is connected to which. ------------------ Ed

Wad - As has been stated, 'Connecting the 6 channel inputs' is the ONLY way to enjoy multi-channel high res audio, which presumably is the reason you've purchased the DVD-A disk in the first place. DD 'lights' WILL NOT light up as the 6 channels of signals coming from the DVD-A player is at the point of receiver input, analog. I am not familiar with the disk you have purchased, but the few titles I have have been all over the board as far as setup. For instance, 'Hotel CA', when played in my DVD-A player gives you two play mode options....'Surround sound playlist' and 'Stereo sound playlist'. However, if you go into the DVD-A player and enable 'Video mode', then the DVD-A disk gives you a different set of menu options.....'Dolby Digital Playlist', 'DTS Playlist' or 'PCM Stereo Playlist'. I believe that the high resolution DVD-A format(s) are neither DD or DTS, but rather hi-res PCM. But I'm not sure about this point, it's just that when I forget to select '6 channel ext in' on my receiver when listening to 'Surround Sound Playback', the receiver displays 'PCM', not DD5.1 or DTS. Can't speak to your HDCD probs. ------------------ Ed

Ooops again. Guess my basic electronics is waaaay rusty. Can't series them, doesn't come out to 7500pf. Guess it's back to the parts bin...... ------------------ Ed

Fiddlesticks!!! I thought caps were the SAME as resistors. Additive in series, 'averaged' in parallel. Oooops! So....I needed a 7500pF. I paralleled a 10000 and a 5000. So now I have double what I need? This is on my pre-amp. Part of the left channel tone control circuitry on my PAS2. Funny thing is that it sounds the same as the right channel, for which I have the correct 7.5uF cap! I should probably get right on 'de-parallel-ing' them and then 'series-ing'. So, with this in mind, would it be better to use 1 7500pf in one channel and the combo in the other, or since they're out of 7500's, should I 'combo' both channels to more or less 'mirror'? They are all the same type caps. Thanks. ------------------ Ed

Q-Man: While it is well known that a 511B benefits from dampening, how about the Cobraflex? Pictures indicate to me that the original Cobraflex is rather stout, but the Cobraflex 2 looks to be thinner 'walled'. What is your experience? Think I'll pick-up a CF or 2 to dink with. Tim - A 'SAHF' is the mid-driver Klipsch used prior to the K55. Made by University for a host of applications, it was used in Klipsch speaker systems from 1951 - 1961 (according to 'The Dope From Hope' vol 12, #5). The 'CobraFlex' horn is a mid-range horn made by University. It's folded style is appealing as it's mounting 'depth' does not have to be as great as a non-folded unit. ------------------ Ed

Mike, currently I have my 511b's mated to SAHF's. The reason being is that my Khorns are 1954's that came with the SAHF originally and I wanted to match tonally the center with the flanking Khorns to create a timbre-matched soundstage. BTW - IMHO....the SAHF sounds better than the K55 through the 511b...clearer and more robust. The 511b's are in the top cabinet in both Khorns as well as the Belle. The Khorns weren't a problem as they are the original KA model.....about 2.75" narrower than the KB, KC, or KD as well as having a taller upper cabinet. Removing the 1" (or so) top and bottom mounting flange on the output side of the 511 afforded plenty of room to mount the horn out of site. The Belle was another story. After removing the top and bottom flange, there was still about 1" too much 'horn' to fit into the upper cabinet. I did not want to disrupt the original look of the Belle, not did I want to defile it in any way. The criteria I set for myself was exactly that....had to look original and had to be 100% reversable. The first thing I did was to remove and replace the 'bottom of the top cabinet' with a fresh piece of oak veneer (walnut wasn't available locally to me at the time). Setting the original piece aside in the closet, I then cutout exactly the dimensions of the 511, exactly where I wanted it to sit: Next, I stained to match and mounted the 'new' cabinet base piece: Next, I lowered the 511 into it's new home. The 'collar' seperating the upper and lower sections, in tandem with the space gained from the thickness of the wood itself, created just enough room to fit the horn in. At this time I also mounted the tweeter (4401) as well as the network: From here, with the lion's share of the modifications completed, I attached the original sides and top: Next up was to replace the original grille assembly with one that was completely open to take advantage of the sectoral horn and the 'wraparound' grille style of the Belle. I framed this up with strips of 1/2" plywood assembled with a series of little 'L' and 'T' brackets. It was amazingly stout: Then I painted it flat black, stretched fresh Klipsch grillecloth over it, and attached it. The result is a Belle that looks identical to the original one that can be restored to the original factory condition with about an hour's worth of work: You can also see that the Khorns have a taller upper cabinet than current build models. That is if my attempt at inserting the pictures came through. If not, I will follow up with another post with pictures attached 'normally'. Chris - I've not tried the Cobraflex horns, but do have a Cobra12 horn. This thing looks almost identical to the 511b, bit is 'cheap' and thin. However, it sounds great. Looked to me like the Cobraflex was seperated in the middle and was in reality, two seperate horns. How does this affect the sound if you are directly in front? Also, can you mount any driver? Did you mount those SAHF's in Cobraflexs? ------------------ Ed

To me, the difference is considerably more than "slight but noticable". I will concede that if you were previously sitting in the K400's 'sweet spot', the 511 could be a slight but noticeable difference. However, the real charm of this horn is it's ability to broaden the 'sweet spot' to room filling, glorious proportions. I have replaced the K400 in my FR & FL Khorns, as well as my front center and rear center Belles and the result is tremendous. Every seat in the room is filled with grandiose sound, a feat that I would wager to be simply impossible with the tight 'particle-beam' construction of the original straight horn. If I could figure out a way to replace the straight horns in my surround R&L Cornwalls with 511's that would appease the WAF, I would without hesitation do so as these still produce highly directional sound. I suppose that this would be a moot point if you had a 60' x 60' room, but in a "normal" home listening environment, IMHO, you cannot beat the dispersive qualities of the 511B (or A). For a center speaker, this is especially critical unless you have but one seat in the room staring down the throat of the K400. The increased clarity and better overall sound of the 511 is just an added benefit..... Al and others....is the hole size of the adapter(s) you are using the same size as the opening to the 511? Or is it smaller? ------------------ Ed

"really, i think you should, hump, no no, don't hump, i meant forresthump, you should edit that, but i know you wont, and you will say, run on sentence justin, no capiliaztion, spelling sucks justin, etc etc, " Now see what you all have done, the poor boy is getting so excited he's stammering....... ------------------ Ed

Mike, did you swap speaker leads and R/L inputs to isolate the problem to speakers/Denon/Scott? ------------------ Ed

Sounds like your 'Palm' won't be 'Lonely' tonight....! ------------------ Ed

He said she said, I did this, I did that, this side of the story, that side of the story all points to one thing.....stories. The way one should conduct oneself in ANY business transaction is that it is the province of the SELLER to ensure that the item arrives whole and as described unless specifically stipulated upfront that the seller holds no liability and both parties agree. It is the province of the BUYER to ensure that the funds arrive in full, within an appropriate timeframe. This is basic accountability and ownership towards the foundation of any legitimate business deal, one's WORD. In this case, the bottom line is that Bernard has upheld his side of the business deal and myram has not. By agreeing to and following through with this deal, you gave your WORD Steve that Bernard would receive an Acadamy speaker in whatever condition originally agreed upon. HE DID NOT. Therefore it is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to refund his money. To do anything less means your word holds zero value. Regardless of who damaged the item...customs, USPS, or what you regard as appropriate packaging, or what steps you've claimed you've taken to resolve the issue, fact is that Bernard upheld his responsibility as a buyer and you, as the seller, have not. So yes, tally me up as one of those who have indicted myram. Something happened BEFORE Bernard took possession of the Acadamy therefore ownership belongs to Steve. Keeping Bernards money quite frankly equates to theft. Prattling on about how "I did this, I did that, now it's a dead claim" is really a cheap deflectionary tactic to sway our thoughts away from the real issue.....that Steve has not taken responsibility and has thus exposed himself as lacking both character and integrity. ------------------ Ed

PP - I don't know about how soon you want to be up and running, but if it were me, I would gather the pieces at cut rate bargain prices on e-pay. I know there are mixed feelings on this BB, but you can go far and above your present targeted quality level this way. A new Denon AVR1700, bare bones digital surround receiver can be had for about $150. Being patient, you can probably get the speakers required (in Klipsch) for the remaining $350. I just read where someone got a pair of Cornwalls off of e-bay for about $150. In any event, get the highest quality your money can buy. That doesn't always mean retail, Circuit City. ------------------ Ed

Yup!! That's me.....the auto-fuse one which should be indicative of my electronics prowess To further that point, earlier I reported that I thought the ST-70 was on the fritz based upon 'static' type noise. This conclusion was based upon the fact that upon hearing the noise, I powered off the PAS2 to no effect. When I turned off the ST70, the noise went away. As it turns out, I had the PAS on the workbench to try and determine the problem with the one channel not outputting to the level of the other. Has the PAS plugged unto my test amp - a Bryston - and there was the static. There was a faulty AC recepticle in the back of the PAS, which I replaced as well as the RCA phonojacks. I then did as suggested here....touched up all the solder joints that looked suspect. The problem seems to have gone away for the moment. So now I'm back to the first problem....one channel not outputting to the same level as the other. Swapping tubes yielded nothing other than to tell me it's not a tube issue. Upon listening, it sounds more like the 'fidelity' has gone out of one channel, almost like a cheap AM radio sound now. Krackley and lacking bass/treble. I have 'ohmed' out components in an attempt to identify glaring anomolies, but there were none. Any ideas now? I was going to replace all the caps with poly's anyway, should I just do that and if the problem still exists afterwards, try and follow the signal back from the output connector? Is the preamp output signal large enough to 'see'? What would I need? An o-scope? Or is the signal measurable with a good digital DMM? Thanks ------------------ Ed

AVMan and JM....very timely post. I just setup a first pass at a HTPC not 3 days ago. I too have been very happy with the s-video quality, but you KNOW how it is....always looking to tweek it up a notch or two. Plus, my projector, an Infocus LP350, does not have component inputs. It DOES however have the DVI input which I've always wanted to explore. I found an ATI Radeon All in Wonder 7500 video card for next to nothing. Having DVI out, I thought 'a-ha, time to try the HTPC thing'. In short, I'm going from my existing Panasonic DVD-Audio (RA-60) player into the s-video input of the ATI card, through the PC and back out the DVI output of the ATI card into the DVI input of the projector. I believe that in this config, I am using the analog portion of the DVI interface rather than the all digital portion that would probably be used if I have a DVD (ROM?) player on the PC I'm using. With this in mind, questions of audio are a non-issue as I'm using the same audio setup as always, just routing the video through the PC. However, when/if I get a PC DVD, the ATI card has a coax AES digital output. What is not clear in the manuals is whether it will pass DTS through as well as the DD5.1 it states, and it certainly will not do DVD-Audio. So I've watched for 2 nights now. The only experiment I've been able to do so far is with the first disk of 'The Sopranos, 3rd season', out this week on DVD. I watched the first 2 episodes 'standard', that being s-video to projector, and the next 2 episodes through the HTPC. I have a cheap Rat Shack s-video switcher, so I'm able to do a (semi) push button comparison. So far, near as I can tell, there are positives and negatives. First the positives....the picture appears to be clearer and sharper. Everything is vivid as if illuminated by an inner light. Dimly lit scenes now have exceptional detail, a function of the ability to be able to fine tune 'gamma' I would suspect. The motion is as fluid as it is with the straight in s-video, no 'herky-jerky' PC type motion whatsoever, so that's a wash. Another very positive element is the ability to adjust everything and anything. Almost adjustment overload. The only negative I can see is that some diagonals have a greater 'sawtooth' effect. This does not appear to be the result of a lessened resolution as if anything, the resolution looks to be greater than the straight s-video in. I believe that the answer to this lies in one of the sync-ing adjustments or perhaps one of the dithering/3d rendering-type adjustments. Further playing around this weekend is required to provide you a decisive review, but suffice to say that the preliminary results are biased towards the positive. ------------------ Ed