kmijeski

Bob - Thanks for your response I usually listen to movies at a moderate level. I have not measured the sound level or the watts used. By comparison to an older receiver on stereo, I would assume I would be using less than 3 watts continuous on average. Considering this is at 96 dB for the fronts speaker array. I don't know what full volume is, short of slightly less than clipping(which I don't think I have never done). I occasionally "crank up the volume" where the volume control may be pointing at 11 o'clock (I am not sure if that means much). I never increase the volume to 12 o'clock. And yes, the "distortion" appears even at lower volume levels - it is not only when I am crankng it up, Although of course it is more noticable when increasing the volume, respectively.

I isolated the source of the distortion - it is my receiver. Any guidance on weather I should have it worked on or get a new one? I am very frustrated. Thanks

The model Yamaha receiver I have is the 5150. I think it is rated at 75 watts per channel - although I probably never use those. Is there anything I can do to "test" the receiver short of taking it to a service center? In the mean time, I will hook up my center to an inexpensive Sherwood receiver that my wife uses to assess the distortion coming from the KSF C5. I will also hook up a cheap center channel to the Yamaha to assess any distorion coming from it on the other receiver. Question - If I isolate the distorion to my receiver, is there anything I can do about it considering the cost of repair? Thanks for you feedback.

Hello guys I am noticing some audible distorion from my center channel. I notice it when dialogue gets loud - such as if someone yells or raises their voice in the movie. The distortion appears to be less when I change the center channel setting on my amp from large to small, however it is stil audible. The distorion is also still audible when I select "no center channel" - meaning all dialogue comes from both left and right speakers. The distotion is most noticeable from the center channel. Other than voices like I mentioned, there is not audible distortion at all. Could there be an issue with my amp? Is it possible for the soundtrack of the DVDs I have been watching to be recorded "too hot"? Should I invest in monster cable for my coax digital out from my DVD player? Should I run my center channel down to the service center so they can open her up to see if there is a damaged coil or a small tear in a diaphram? I am bewildered. Any help is greatly appreciated.

AVman Thanks for responding I am using component video connections. My TV may be similar is similar to the XBR you are refering to, but it does not state the up conversion process. I can select Interlaced or progressive on my TV menu. Would this make a difference? I tried several different settings and the boldest colors came from the non progressive signal. The sharpest image came from the progressive scan signal. On the actual DVD player, there is a switch which I can select the 480i or 480p output. There are also different menu settings where I can choose film or video source. Which should I choose? Does this make a difference?

Thanks for the advice Doug!!

Wow, I didn't expect such a response - (just kidding). I guess this may have chosen the wrong forum to post this one. Anyway, for those who are interested, I did more research on the internet and the player I purched does have 3:2 pull down (this may be a standard for progressive scan DVD players.?). What I did as far as the brightness of the colors (specifically the reds), was I adjusted the sharpness, tint, contrast etc on the DVD menu to compensate for the difference. The differences between progressive scan (480p - interpolating to 720 lines of resolution on an HD capable TV)and interlaced (480i normal view) initially appeared to be minor. After viewing a few scenes from various movies, I was able to notice some clarity differences between the two resolutions. One extremely noticeable difference was on the movie The Thomas Crown Affair - with Pierce Brosnan. As he holds up the newspaper after Rene Russo's character spent the night with him at his NY apartment. The lines of text on the newspaper on normal mode were extremely pixelated and larger than scale. With progressive playback, the lines of text looked more real and to scale. In the same movie when the glider lands in a cow pasture when viewed with mormal mode, the outline of the white glider seem jagged or like small stair steps. While viewing this seen in progressive mode, the outline of the glider appears smooth. Just thought I would give you guys something to look at. Additional comments, suggestions are welcome

I need some technical advice: I recently bought a new JVC progressive scan DVD player from a wholesale club. I hooked it up last night to my HDTV (with progressive scan option) I could not tell much of a calrity difference between the normal resolution and the progressive scan resolution. In fact, It appers as though the non progressive scan picture seems to have brighter colors and more distuinguished red colors. Is there suppossed to be a more noticable difference? I have been told that 3:2 pull down is good, and the particular DVD player I purchased does not state that it has 3:2 pull down capability. - I am not sure if this is an additional feature or if all progressive scan DVD players use this. I have been told that 3:2 pull down is good to have. Please provide me with any advice. Thank you

Moon Thanks for the advice. I was actually able to "fix" one of the recessed lights. The baffle was not installed flush with the trim peice that goes against the sheetrock (secures it up there). I moved it around to where it holds it more securely and now no rattle what soever from that one. The other recessed lighting fixture is towards the back (2/3rds back) of the room and does makes just a small noise occasionally. The actual fixture seems to hang too low, therefore the trim and baffle does not secure it very tight against the sheetrock. Again, the noise that one makes is very minor and only occasional. I think I will try some adhesive caulk - even white since the trim and ceiling are both white.

Moon, You room is looking great!! Need advice - I recently built a home theater room and now that it is complete, I hear rattling from two of my recessed light fixtures with loud bass notes. Do you have any suggestions on how to eliminate this? Thanks

I don't think the tonality would match. I would go with another pair of RS3s

I think the KSF speakers are great. You are lucky to have the SS5s (surrounds) I wish I had a pair. I have listened to the RF3s and they are brighter in tone - a little more harsher , if you will, on the treble. I do not like the "floating" grill cover. They are difficult to remove and replace and the prongs break easily. I too thought about upgrading, but after listening to the RF3s decided it was not worth the additional investment over what I already had. Remember, some people still have and will not part with their 20 year old Heresy speakers.

I too noticed the same glare on the movie on two different DVD players. I assumed it was produced that way to give us the impresion of the older style film video cameras. It may be that was in the beach landing scens as well. Please post if you find anything!! Thanks

I always thought that that is how Klipsch was able to have their speakers rated at a higher dB level (or sensitivity) than most others. Their horn enclosure directs more sound waves to the direction of the listener. I think your little experiment proved the point. Not that it is bad. I think this also gives more separation for better imaging.

I too prefer DTS over Dolby Digital. The reason beng is that I can tell a diference in the clarity of the recording and I think it has better dynamic range. THX is more or less a marketing ploy to me. THX is not a format it is a "ceretification". Certified by who? ..... THX of course. What is measured to gain certification? THX measures...... *The method the audio and video tranfered onto the DVD *Your suggested screen size of your television and preferable viewing distance from your screen/TV. More information can be obtained by clicking on www.thx.com

Regarding Surround Placement, Keep in mind the angle of the tractrix horn - in other words are the higher frequencies going to "hit" the ears of those sitting in the main veiwing area. If the couch is against the back wall and you mount the speakers 7 feet high on the back wall, the sound will miss the ear and you will wind up hearing the surround sound after it bounces off of a forward wall. If at all possible, you may want to mount them on the side walls (to either side of the main listening position). I think the klipsch web site offers placement advice - 1. Number one placement is to the sides of the main listening position 2 - 3 feet above ear level (remember the tractrix horn design allows the sound to hit you ear directly and also allows for non directional ambient sound. 2. On the rear wall at the same elevation as number 1. 3. Due to the design of these speakers, those who have difficulty with either ofnthe above placement, can do a combination. Hope this adivce helps I agree with the 7.1 surround wiring for future reference. Especially if you are running it behind sheetrock!

DougDrake mentioned that the KSF S-5s - the speaker I am refering to and is only available used. I think they are rated at 90 dB where the SS-1s have a reported sensetivity of 94 dB. Reportedly the RC3II sound "better". However, matching these with speakers other than reference may be a poor choice. choice in your system may not be a good choice. The issue: you want the sound from front to back to be as "seamless" as the sound from left to right. The Rc3II have a brighter sound than the ss-1s therefore when listening to a plane fly overhead during a movie you will notice the difference in sound tonality versus the movement of sound. Someone on this forum may be able to give a web address of a put together speaker matching chart.

If your use would be 50 / 50. You may want to consider getting another pair of KLF 10s for rears (or something similar. They would provide the exact match you may be looking for.

To clarify: I think the closest match is the S-5 no longer in production. However they can be found used on Ebay occasionally. This is not to be confused with the ss .5. The closest match currently in production and more readily available would be the ss 1.

I too struggled with a simliar scenario. I looked and looked and was told by many on this forum that the closest timbre match to the synergies were the ss-1s. I was told the same thing by Klipsch Technical Support.

I would use a modified option placement # 2 I think you might be able to mount the SS-1 on the wall beside the mantle - perhaps put some type of "spacer" (like a 2 x 8 peice of wood spray painted black to match the speakers). This will allow no interference with the dispersion and may make placement easier. (this may or may not be an issue). For optimal sound, the SS-1s should be placed in line or slightly behind the primary listening position. I would not suggest stands.

I recently completed a home theater / media room on my third floor / attic. I live in a large condominium, which made this an interesting project. The third floor has a main room, which are 12 x 24 feet. The actual usable space of the third floor is 24 x 24 feet -(an additional 6 x 24 feet on each side). The additional space added much room for storage - three large storage closets in the front separated by two dormer windows and a large back "closet" for additional storage and the 3rd floor dedicated HVAC unit. The air return vent to the HVAC unit is approximately 24 feet away from the blower which greatly reduces the air sound when on. As far as the "neighboring wall" of the condo, I actually framed out another wall on top of the old wall or sheet rock. I layered this space with styro foam sound absorbing sheets I purchased from Lowe's. I left about an inch of dead air space - which I was told helped to dampen deep bass sound. The additional wall seems to adequately suppress any sound from entering our neighbors condo as evidenced by my neighbor claiming she cannot hear any noise when I watch a movie (I am still not convinced of this even though I keep the sound at a tolerable level!). The additional wall also allowed easy access for me to run speaker wire, cable and add additional outlets for power sources. Speaking of power sources I installed a sub panel (fuse box) dedicated to the third floor this floor only. I allowed dedicated breakers for my stereo, television and small refrigerator. As far as keeping sound from escaping to the outside, I put a layer of R-13 insulation around the main room and also installed an additional layer on the outer wall and roofline. I installed R-30 for the ceiling. The main room already had comparable to an R-20 underneath the sub floor plywood original ceiling insulation. I added an additional layer of ¾ inch plywood on top of the original sub floor to strengthen and dampen noise. I have new padding and carpet of course. I have the system set up for 5.1 presently (meets the requirements of my present system) and included 2 additional speaker wire sets (left and right rear) when I increase to 7.1 (at some point). The only sources of natural light in the room are the two dormer windows, which are somewhat small and can be easily covered to eliminate any light from entering the room. I would like to consider getting a DLP projector such as the Piano which sells for around $3,000. I am told the bulb lasts about 1,000 hours and each replacement bulb costs approximately $230. I would install a ceiling bracket for the projector and also hang a screen that can be lowered in front of my existing television (and raised) at the touch of a button. There are two drawbacks to the Piano projector.... 1. The remote cannot turn the projector on and off. The only power switch is on the actual unit creating a problem, when ceiling mounted. 2. There is only one set of component video inputs. Does not allow for future HDTV receiver hook-up and progressive scan DVD player (and eventually HDDVD player) hookup. I currently have comfortable seating for 4 two recliners to the sides and a love seat recliner further back in the center sweet spot. One issue I am experiencing is the vibration of recessed lighting fixtures with powerful bass. I intend to remedy this in the next few weeks. I tried to think of everything possible prior to beginning the project feel free to contact me with questions I know it is always helpful to have others input.

To prepare for getting an HD tv in the future you need to get a progressive scan DVD player with 3:2 pull down. You will be able to display 720 lines of resolution on an HD capable tv. It seems like the more expensive DVD players $300 + seems less pixelated or grainy than the cheaper ones. Now I do not know if price or manufacturer is the key. I am looking at a yamaha DVD player. Yamahas are prioced up to over $1,000. -Too much.

That is one of the best DVDs available! He recently released a new concert DVD from his Pull Over tour which is equally as good!

The receiver is the key. Different receivers are made different - some inexpensive receivers have great features and some don't. On my Yamaha I can choose for the LFE (lower frequency output to either be sent only to the sunbwoofer, sent to both the sub and the mains and last - sent only to the mains (sub off). I have an inexpensive Sherwood that can send the lower frequencies to the mains or to the sub. Some inexpensive receivers do not have these options. I would suggest consulting with your receiver manual or contact the company / research website for user information.