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Everything posted by babadono

  1. I love this picture...Ground which is never supposed to have any current is capable of what? 1000 amps? And to top it off it is probably going to an added ground rod that is 25 to 50 ohms from the bonded neutral wire. So a direct short of 115 volts to this ground will not trip a breaker.
  2. Can you squeeze 40mm diameter but still 50mm height in? Looks like Mouser has a105 C cap in that size to do as @avguytx suggested. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/EKMH800VRT103MB50T?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22RSFeKT%2FCuZ6%2BTXe5TLUhmE%3D
  3. Reading the Manufacturer's data sheets is kind of amusing for the audio caps.....more musical(?) high tone quality(?)...something gets lost in Japanese to English I agree with @avguytx you really DON"T NEED audio grade in the P.S.
  4. The more I look the scarier it gets...I think I'd stay with Mouser, at least you'll have recourse if caps aren't up to snuff.
  5. So no other big caps up by the transformer?
  6. Found a post on some part website: https://theaudiocrafts.com/elna-10000uf-80v-andquot-for-audioandquot-lao-series states as of 2014 and after all Elna caps are made in China. These "look" legit:https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5pcs-ELNA-10000UF-80V-FOR-AUDIO-35-50mm-Audio-Filter-Electrolytic-Capacitor/113837328449?hash=item1a813bc841:m:mDzf4G32cIjowNEFyz5uvQw
  7. Curiously Elna catalog does not show a LAO series 10,000uF 80 volt cap..Hmmm...old catalog?....or are the parts on Ebay counterfeit?
  8. "Snap in" is just to hold cap in place until soldered. Helps in manufacturing of wave soldered boards. Just make sure the lead spacing is correct. And the overall size will fit unto your boards of course you knew that. Audio grade vs. regular? Hmm.... If audio grade makes you warm and fuzzy go for it As to counterfeit parts from China....first of all they're probably all from China anyways. There are some Elna audio caps on the Ebay page that you linked, sure wish they would give the complete P/N
  9. Keep flipping. Ain't that what ur suppozed to do anywho?
  10. Starting to sound like a blown tweeter.
  11. When you switched the "tophats" (the midrange and tweeter horns) the problem stayed in the same speaker or moved with the tophat?
  12. I remember a post I made in an earlier thread you started: How's about a good old fashioned Jube bass bin? Very cool you took the plunge. If you need help with your cables let me know. A regular RCA with the end chopped off(1 signal+1 shield) mated to a EuroBlok will not be optimal.
  13. Y'all know horns are honky Couldn't help myself @Coytee
  14. You're talking about the bass bins, right. The Jubes are just such an improvement over the mighty Ks IMHO. I did not realize md5150's Jubes had the TADs, excellent score!
  15. An extra inductor pre crossover? Oh my whatever will we do.
  16. Mackinaw Island to East Lansing in two days? You da man.
  17. I better get on my horse I am invited?
  18. Thanks again to ChrisA. It nice to see why I like my Jubes more than the KHorns.
  19. I have cuz I'm a d*(khead
  20. They are there to protect the drivers for sure. And yes having a 20 amp fuse where a 2 and 1/2 should be is not good practice. But the 2 and 1/2 amp fuse only lets 25 watts continuous to be dissipated by the woofer. With a KHorn that should Damn loud but perhaps the PO got tired of blowing a fuse occasionally. But 20 amps? Too much. Because now your not protecting it much at all, in fact really not at all. But maybe that's all he had handy.
  21. You got me almost ready to tear my KHorns apart.
  22. And I thought you still had the parts on the woofer door connected So which were it?
  23. Have you hooked your amp directly to the woofer(s) now that everything is disconnected? Don't get too happy with the volume knob.
  24. If the insulation of voice coil wire has heated up to the point melting and shorting out some turns of the coil I would say "who the heck knows what that's supposed to sound like".
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