Bubo

1 of 500 units produced in this configuration if I read it correctly.

I've had this one since 1980

I worked with a guy on the Navy Base that had a Dino, it was one of the coolest looking cars I have ever seen. Pictures don't do it justice. He never had ask a girl twice if they wanted to go for a drive up the coast or down to Sorrento for lunch on the weekend. I don't know how the Montreal's drive, but a high cool factor. Pina Farina body??

1970s Laverda response to KZ 900s and other Japanese sport bikes. Space ship. http://elcorramotors.blogspot.com/2013/06/laverda-1000-v6.html

I actually had one of these pull up next to me at a rest stop in N Italy in the early 1970s. Rear engine, was so futuristic in it's design, the crisp purrrr of the engine said street legal race car.......

Ah yes, the Flaminia........ Too bad the Dino Fiat never made it to the US, what a cool looking sports car..... http://fr.academic.ru/dic.nsf/frwiki/627872

Rane 23S Crossover http://www.rane.com/ac23s.html

Different drivers behave differently, so one may be much stronger at different frequencies than the cross over is designed for. On the other hand, with a spec sheet and your ears you may be able to dial any drivers on a pro cross over, or tailor the sound to your tastes......especially if you are switching drivers and horns. I'm no cross over expert, so I'll throw the floor open....

Totally agree, you need enough signal to have something to attenuate. You can do a search for "head amps", some 12vdc battery driven for a turntable, CD players and perhaps DACs are hotter signals. When you have all of your numbers, post them and someone smarter than me can tell you if the math works..... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=639796&highlight=head+amp

I'm pretty sure you can build backs onto the speakers, will require a new top too, corner problem solved. Volti does this as an upgrade. If you are going to be switching out the drivers, I don't know how to engineer them with crossover. Rane makes pro cross overs with adjustable frequencies and phase delays. Take the crossovers outboard? You might check out Crites, lots of parts for Klipsch inc a 15in woofer.

Look at the cabinets the way you would look at an auto body. I wouldn't buy if substantial damage unless you are a woodworker. Listen to some music you know on them that will exercise the full sonic range and listen for problems It's time to replace the caps, you can remove the crossovers and mail them to Crites and they will recap and test for you. Photograph them with the wires before you remove them and label the wires so you can reassemble. When you get them home, buy some smoked glass tops for them, there is no keeping lamps and beer cans off them, they are like magnets. Crites sells the fabric for the fronts, if you want a more finished look. A local cabinet maker or upholsterer should be able to make and attach partial or full front cloth for you, black on black could be a cool look. The grills are usually removable, Parts Express sells the hardware. This may require building up the front with solid piece of wood attached to the cabinet all the way around so there is something to sink the fasteners to, direct into the plywood sounds like a bad idea....

Another good reason to return to Brisbane. Were you able to measure the results of your mods, the work looks very impressive. Are the crossovers DIY??

For the same money or less you can score a pair of Heresys or Fortes, both have 12 inch woofers. I own the synergy products, and think for 2.0 the above is a no brainer. My two cents

Just looked at the auction site, surprising what people are paying for used. You may be able to get your original ask.

Memory Lane

You might want to check the price.

Sorry for your loss. I've had a pair since 1980. Full grills are unusual, may have been a special order. The units appear mint. 1. Keep them and use them yourself for the rest of your life. They sound great in any size room. 2. If you have to sell for some reason, don't take the first offer. 3. Unique, mint, full grills, good geographic location. 4. You may be able to get $2000, not less than $1600, they are ready to veneer or stain, that has value. 5. If you do keep them, get smoked glass tops 6. If you get them stained, there are some threads on this worth reading. If it's your first time find a friend who is an expert and get them to help you. Lunch is on you. Keep them unless you are forced to sell.

I wonder if a pair of Crites slant risers put one backwards would angle the speakers toward the listeners ears??? Or you could make your own riser with 3 pieces of wood that has a front lip so the speaker can't slip forward, stain it black. In the rear, the speakers could be attached to the wall using inexpensive electrical conduit U clamps and thin metal cables, both available at any hardware store.

Depends on the goals of the design, some parts my not operate correctly or efficiently above or below certain parameters.

All things being equal, the lower output amp has a greater chance of being good. Lower parts counts, lower energy handling requirements, simpler design etc. With high efficiency aka horn driven Klipsch speakers 102db W-1M or greater, it's the first .5 watts that count......since 2W will run you out of the room. A 20W amp would give you 9db of head room above ear shattering volumes, why buy more?

I've had mine for about 35 years and in several different homes and apartments. Depends on the room. The original room was 30 x 40, the LaScalas were on the 30 wall, 2 feet off the wall, straight ahead, I played with moving them around and recall they were about 12-15 apart. Carpeted room with furniture on the opposite side from the speakers. The stereo gear was on shelves in the room behind the 30x40 room, so just speakers were visible. People would freak out when they heard them. As the room gets smaller, the speakers get closer to the corners and the wall out of necessity and toed in to focus on the location of the listeners. Hope this helps.

I really don't understand how using 10 AWG wire is going lower the damping factor of a tube amplifier. With damping, the larger the number the better until you get into diminishing returns. Resistance decreases with thicker wire, so thick wire doesn't make the damping worse. The longer any wire is, the greater it's resistance. If I were an expert, I would sat that 20 is the magic number, after that declining returns set in quickly. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_factor "If the speaker impedance is 8 ohms, and the amplifier output impedance is 0.01 ohms, the damping factor is 800. That's a simplification. Since the speaker impedance and amplifie r output impedance vary with frequency, so does the damping factor. Also, the impedance of the speaker cable affects damping. Thick cables (with low AWG) allow more damping than thin cables with (high AWG). The lower the amplifier's output impedance, the higher the damping factor, and the tighter the sound is. A damping factor of 1000 or greater is consider ed high. High damping factor equals tight bass" http://www.crownaudio.com/media/pdf/amps/damping_factor.pdf White Paper Tube damping vs SS numbers what to they really mean "CONCLUSIONS It should be obvious at this point that the quoted damping factor of an amplifier is important only if the figure lies somewhere below 20 or so. Changing the damping factor from 2 to 20 does change the performance of the loudspeaker system (for better or for worse, depending upon the speaker). But trying to prove that a damping factor of 200 or even more is somehow better than one of 20 is pretty unconvincing because the effective difference in the practical case cited is only that between 1.25 and 1.32." http://www.butleraudio.com/damping1.php http://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/damping-factor-effects-on-system-response Very cool, plug the numbers and calc the various factors http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-bridging.htm