Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

jvs1670

Regulars
  • Content Count

    217
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

62 Excellent

About jvs1670

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

3966 profile views
  1. I'd suggest a 70's era reciever from Marantz, Yamaha, Sansui or Harman Kardon. I'm using an HK 730 and it sounds better than any other thing I've tried including tube amps. You don't need to spend a fortune either.
  2. Took it to a guy here in Denver "Dr Dan", fixed a crack in some solder joint, all is great again. Anyone that needs repairs in Denver this guy is great, super friendly and very reasonable.
  3. Headphones plus bass shakers might work. I use them in my couch for movies, adds to the effect.
  4. The guy has them listed in the furniture section... https://denver.craigslist.org/fuo/d/denver-pair-klipsch-klipschorn-speakers/7272696110.html
  5. I have that exact setup in my living room. Got the Yamaha 801 from Crutchfield when they 1st came out, using them with Cornwall I's from 1977. I think it's a great pairing, I've tried the 801 with my La Scalas and Khorns and to me it mates the best with the Cornwalls. Been using it for a few years now and have no plans to change it, really like the variable loudness too.
  6. This is quoted from Critesspeakers.com........ Q: How about break in time for drivers or new driver diaphragms? A: Yes, and depends on the size of the driver. Tweeter diaphragm probably break-in at a matter of seconds. They are very low mass and move very little, so any break in would happen almost instantly. Probably happened when the factory tested the diaphragm after manufacture. Midrange are a bit bigger and have a bit more mass. Break-in is probably on the order of minutes with these. Woofers would take the longest. I think that break-in on a 12 to 15 inch woofer would be less than an hour played at pretty good volume using music with a lot of low frequency content.
  7. I asked the same question. That's what I have too, so what is best? Honestly would really like to know.
  8. So ALK, Crites and now JEM are all on record saying the AL crossover basically sucks. If I don't want to change out the K-55M the only solution is the AL-3? JEM is saying you shouldn't just go with the AA crossover, but Crites says his AA or AL-3 are what he recommends. Does his AA account for the K-55M?
  9. "Klipsch Approved" updates apparently don't apply to the AL crossover. I checked with JEM by email a couple days ago regarding what can be done to improve the AL's in my La Scalas and he agrees there is no simple fix. Here is his reply regarding the AL's... Next the AL network in your LaScalas. Well, this network really isn’t the best. The midrange driver attenuation is off by 2db. Then there is the issue of the notch filters. That is a whole discussion by itself so I will leave that alone at this time. This was all corrected in the AL3 network but to modify the AL to AL3 is expensive and would require parts no longer offered by Klipsch. They would have to be sourced from other vendors and I don’t get involved with parts other than what the factory can provide. This is the only way to keep a repaired speaker a genuine Klipsch product. If you want to keep your LaScalas performing as-built, I can provide the Klipsch replacement caps. However, this doesn’t address the problems with the AL network. You can’t change to a AA network unless you change the midrange drivers from the K-55M to the K-55V. The M and V have different sensitivities and therefore need specific networks to operate properly. So, you have two choices available that will still give you a genuine Klipsch LaScala other than just leaving them alone. First you can back-date the LaScalas by switching to AA networks and K-55V midrange drivers. I would recommend finding a good set of solder terminal K-55Vs. This would place your LaScalas in the ’81 to ’82 vintage. 1981 and ’82 vintage Klipsch speakers sounded extremely good. The only reason Klipsch changed things in the mid ‘80s is because the manufacturer of the midrange driver had some quality control problems and ceased production of it. Electrovoice made the K-55M but due to variations in design, a new crossover network was needed for this driver. The AL network was the result. The other option is up-date to the LaScala II. This is probably the most expensive route but it would get you essentially a 2018 speaker. You would need to change the crossover network, midrange driver and tweeter. Unfortunately, all that would be left from your ’86 speakers is the cabinet and woofer.
  10. That is one comprehensive list, thank you. Also worries me because I think I'm in over my head even attempting most of what you suggest. I'm gonna take a peek inside again but I think I'm going to have to get it looked at when all is said and done. Guess I don't mind spending a few bucks if it can be fixed.
  11. I have a HK 730, was getting some noise and scratchiness in the volume so I cleaned it with Deoxit, also sprayed the other knobs and in and around the RCA inputs. Worked great for awhile then would get random distortion as volume would rise. Sprayed again (not too much) and moved my speaker connections to the B inputs and it again worked great and sounded awesome. Now the distortion has returned when the volume goes up, not crazy loud but moderately loud. The distortion can be in either speaker. Do I need a certain part, is it something I can do myself? Do I need to spray something I haven't tried yet? Love to hear some thoughts if you guys have any ideas. I love this receiver and plan to keep it forever. Thanks John
  12. Bought it new with the optional AptX Bluetooth module, both pieces were $350. Still have the original double box that Emotiva uses which is very sturdy, so shipping could be a possibility if you wanted to pay for that. No damage or scratches, works like new. Asking $200 on CL, $175 for forum members. Just listed it on Denver Craigslist. https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/aurora-emotiva-basx-pt-100-preamplifier/7247795842.html
  13. I've been using a Cornwall I for a center between my Khorns but to do that I had to split up the pair so one them has just been sitting collecting dust. I figured this Chorus II should be as good or better movies. I tried it briefly yesterday by watching The Patriot, the cannons, bombs and dialogue seemed awesome lots of depth and presence, think it does better than the Cornwall for that purpose. Very happy so far.
  14. Costco near me is selling them for $89.99, great deal if anyone needs it. Mine are still running strong for over 10 years.
×
×
  • Create New...