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srvrip

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Everything posted by srvrip

  1. Man, ALL those speakers make the Fortes' kind of... small... John
  2. Formby's Lemon Oil. Just a dab will do ya! Yes, I have the grills. No cat scratch fever on the grills, due to the fact they were put in storage in a plastic bag. Didn't think things thru when the wife brought home the 2 NEW rescue cats. ... But at least he didn't get my Vox Amp. John
  3. The cat has been hard to find also. As far as the finish, no poly, but just some Formby's prior to the "Photo "FUBAR" Shoot"! They DO have nice grain... John
  4. Sorry guys, tried to cancel as these are NOT the cropped photos... I clicked cancel, nothing doing. It is what it is, i guess...
  5. Well after all that, here are a couple shots. Tried to get them even w/out a tripod, but NOT! John
  6. colterphoto1, thanks for the input! And Murphy's Law applies here. of course! FRONT! Not too bad, I'll post some pictures ASAP... Thanks, John
  7. Hey guys, hope I don't have to stay after school for posting violation(s) here, but as stated above, I am kicking around the idea of selling these. Walnut and WIFE'S cat put a claw thru one woofer. Other than that, these have been my sweethearts since 1988, the year I got married. Question: Can I post my phone number/ Email Address here? Just thought somebody might have an extra woofer in the workshop, and be able to fix and upgrade these puppies! All stock, no Crites Mods etc... Thanks in advance for any help. I have an idea of the approx. value, but your results may vary. John
  8. Thanks for the response. I, too, would use this as part of my Nakamichi/ Klipsch Forte' One setup, with only late night headphone use. John
  9. Where does LAME fit in here? Not even in the same ballpark as JRiver?
  10. OK, so after all the hype and waiting, would you equate the Pono vs. The HiFi Man Player or the Astrell and Kern player to the difference between a "Record" and a "Direct to Disc Record"? Is the Pono that much better { seeing the stereo separation and sound stage was so hyped } re. the above comparison, OR is it fairly close in Audiophyle Quality and they plan to make their money from "The Pono Music Store"? One more question. With high impedance cans, like the HD-800s, LCD 2's, etc. is a headphone amp helpful, necessary, a nice sonic addition or not needed in any way? Thank You Guys! John
  11. Thanks for the info guys! Here is my update. That damn heavy-As* Transformer did NOT cause a rotator cuff injury! I had an MRI done Monday night, turns out I have arthritis! I guess time waits for no one, and it ain't waiting for me...:-( Fur Face, I think I would be thrilled to take you up on your offer. Three things have to happen first. Enough strength to carry the fortes from the den to my spare bedroom, no -7 degree friggin temps, and a time when the wife is lunching with her mother so I can run down and grab it and be home before she notices I was gone. ;-) So, thanks again for the offer and all the valuable info you guys have provided! I hate to ask this for fear of being booted off the forum, but... Is it remotely possible that my quad core AMD, HP pavilion desktop with bluray, SACD, DVD audio playback, run into a decent DAC be useful as a source for my music? Or is everyone spitting their beer on their keyboards laughing right now? John
  12. srvrip

    F/S Klipschorns

    Does the Tele come with the deal?
  13. A1UC.... I was never interested in art of any sort, but... I may be caving... Beautiful Amp!
  14. FurFace, That IS an amazing offer, however If possible, I would prefer to listen to the Dacware Amp at YOUR HOUSE. I find that borrowing things is not a good thing for me to be allowed to do{per Da Wife}. I'm kinda like Cosmo Kramer when it comes to borrowing. The item, really doesn't matter if it is a cooking spatula or Puffy Shirt, usually is worse for wear upon return. ~Sienfeld, again. Shorewood is not too far from me, so maybe we could set up a time, after this left hand can be raised enough to use the blinkers in the Mazda3, as opposed to threading my right hand thru the steering wheel, to indicate a change of lanes! Granted, driving has been more "interesting" lately, but probably not in a good way. And finally my new friend Maynard. My gs35 tube, initially built for HF communication in Russian tanks, works well in my Ham Radio Amp. And as my mentor, who built the amp from scratch told me, "There is a good chance even YOU can not break this amp". Well, that remains to be seen. However, speaking of power transformers, it is not at all heavy... compared to the transformer we used to drive my Eimac 1500a Tube. THAT thing needed a variac to back the voltage DOWN to 6000 volts, in order to not melt antenna wire. O.K., since I was the guy who had to carry the 8000 volt transformer back and forth to the truck on several occasions, I do believe you guys helped me figure out how I tore my rotator cuff! Maynard, can you do a quick calculation as to the weight {in pounds please } that a transformer capable of 8000 volts on a 240 line would weigh? We may have found the answer to the source of my injury!! Also, while being nice, big tubes, the THD is probably a tad above what Steves amps run... IMHO. Thanks Again, John
  15. Thanks Maynard! I am in Glen Ellyn Illinois, 25 miles as the crow flies from the Sears Tower. OK, to be PC, it is now called the Willis Tower. I heard they changed the name it tribute to Gary Coleman, after he passed a few years ago.{ Poor attempt at humor } I wonder what you would charge for building an amp based on this tube: A Russian GS-35...
  16. Thanks guys! Maynard, what type of tube amp are you using? I assume you built it, so can you fill in wattage, tube types etc. At what distance are you listening? The 6 feet you mentioned, my GUESS is that it's a bit more than that, but please, fill me in. Ski Bum, THANK YOU for the link. I have been not using my audio equipment for the last number of years, as I got into other hobbies, that take up immense time. If either of you guys have a link, or ebook explaining todays latest TWO CHANNEL Hi-Fi options, that would be greatly appreciated, too. I know just enough to be dangerous... SACD, DVDAUDIO, BLURAYCD AUDIO, FLAC, Kilobytes/ Second, "Record" Re-emergence. DACs, Headphone amps w/ Built in DACs, HiFi Mans expensive "I-Pod/" MP3 Players..... basically, I need a Letterman Top Ten list that separates out the Marketing B.S. from products that actually produce a 10 fold better listening experience than putting a Sansa MP3 player into a Bose Bluetooth Soundwave thingy. I am actually amazed at how little I know. For a glimpse into my other; all time consuming hobby, check out my post on the "Best three cars" thread. I wrote it, under the influence of Norco, prescribed because I spent 6 hours in a hospital ER, as I could not raise my left arm above mid-thigh level, and I figured I had had a stroke/ heart attack. So, me being me, I rush to the Hospital TWO WEEKS after the first symptoms, to be told I have a torn Rotator Cuff. See, I am starting to ramble again. Anyway, I delayed seeing a dr. TWO WEEKS, but when I dropped my Nakamichi, Late 1980s " vintage" Receiver because I suddenly lost all control over my left arm, I decided, "Screw with me, Aight. Screw with my Audio Equipment, no matter HOW outdated it may be, I'm in the E.R. 10 mins. later"! Also, while writing this, I figured out just how to save $20,000 in mono-blocks! Move my Audio Equipment into an empty bedroom that already has a "Vintage", ie. Old as Hell itself, 35 inch TV that weighs at least 140 very front heavy pounds!
  17. The one and only important car in my life was; A 1997Pontiac Trans-Am bodied, full funny car cage, slipjoint sfi 25.1{I think} tube chassis built by Murf McKinney in Indiana. The motor was a surplus Brad Anderson Engineering 526 ci. Hemi with a 14.1 PSI Screw Blower on it. It was a Top Alcohol{Methanol} fed motor, previously run in a Nitro methane powered Top Fuel Funny Car. To bring it down to Top Alcohol regulations, we bolted one plug hole in each cylinder {Top Fuel, CH3NO2} Motors need to run 2 spark plugs per hole and 2 44 magnum MSD alternators, so we tossed one of those too. The rods were Fuel Rods, much thicker than Alky rods and as I said, we kept the Fuel heads. They were older BAE style heads, not the high flow "Fat Heads" of today. The crank was also the much heavier Top Fuel design, I believe it was a Bryant, but not 100% sure. The pistons were made by Veniola, rings by Total Seal, blower belts by Gates, anodized fittings/hoses by Aeroquip, and clutch discs and floaters by Bonifonte. Wheels were American Racing, front runners, Goodyear. Rear slicks, Hoosier. Rear end, a Top Loader by Strange Engineering, carbon fiber head wrap, fitted to the top and sides of the chromoly rollcage to keep a self destructing 6 psi rear slick from entering the drivers compartment, head inserts inside the cage by ISP, and the fire retardant molded seat insert by ISP as well, I think. Titanium Clutch Can {bellhousing} by Trick Titanium, Injector hat, carbon fiber, by Jeff Burnett Racing, computer by Racepac, and the boring stuff, Oil pan -Moroso, 70 weight oil by Brad Penn, it was green and contained graphite{?} which made t much heavier than other oils, rod bearings, clevite, plugs were champion, used only for 1 1/4 mile pass. Oh, normally the 17 quarts of oil were only used for 1 pass also, unless it was a clean pass, and I found NO aluminium shavings in the pan. If so, we would re-heat the oil, which came out a milky white due to Alcohol blow by caused by pegging the motor @ 7 grand when in the beams, attempting to cut a .06 or better light. How could I forget this, transmission, a 3 speed Lenco, shifted @ 6500 RPM by hitting the air shifter on the left half of the carbon fiber butterfly steering wheel, to reach second{If the left front wheel rose off the ground here.... you were on a good one}, and then again at 6500 rpm (The MSD Shift Light was in your face) to reach third, bring 3rd to near redline, your VERY close to the 1/4 mile beams, reach up, pull the Simpson Chutes, hope the laundry "Hits" just as you break the finish beams, Kill fuel pump {Plueger}, kill the electronics, and if all goes well, coast onto the last turnoff, where your team drives up, kills the computer, one guy hops on the scooter to have the racepack data already uploading into the laptop as the crew tows the car to the scales and the driver gets on the scales holding his $4000 Carbon Fiber helmet and HANS Device while the Team holds it's collective breath hoping the Car/Driver combo are above the minimum 2350 lbs. If so, off to the Fuel Check guys, usually smokers, to check the alcohol with a hydrometer, JUST to make sure nobody snuck a percent or 3 of Nitromethane in the tank . for an extra 5 or6 out of the 3200 horsepower already made by the methanol. Then back to your pit to strip the motor, except the blower{Too friggin heavy}, drain the oil, nre K and N filter, pull and grind clutch plates and floaters, interpret Racepack data, send the scooter guy, me, to the line with an infa-red thermomator to check current Launch Pad temps {Hottest I ever saw was 140}, Mic the rod bearings, more wear in one hole will agree with the racepac data that EGT {Exhaust Gas Temp} of that hole was maybe 1700 degrees as opposed to an ideal 12-1400 degrees, so using you jet kit, you add fuel to THAT ONE hole only, and try your best to equalize the temps in all 8. Also, that hot hole will show a darker plug while the others will look VERY similar. Then, put it all back together, fire up, check for even warming, no leaks at least 120 psi oil pressure. Put last 2 quarts of oil in w/ STP, top off fuel, check slick tire pressure, adjust valves and clutch spacing, depending on a. Track Temp. 2. Track conditions{Anyone put a rod thru the block in the lane you are running in and dump 17 qts of oil?}, and the all telling computer that is capable of measuring nearly 1000 different parameters, load up the tools in the back of the pickup, tow the car to the lanes, while the driver uses the facilities to vomit, and everyone meets in the lanes. The selected "Rabbits Foot is toil by the driver to dress him, put on the HANS device pull it tight, help driver get into Funny Car {No easy Task}, attach the 6 point harness, and retighten each time the pickup moves closer to the line. Put him in the waterbox, watch the burnout, back the driver back into the hoy, sticky tracks he just made, wave him to within 6 inches of setting off the top blue bulb, look at opposing crew chief, agree both sides are set by nodding, bang on the hood, point at the driver, mouth "It's ALL YOU", drivers play head games while staging, get bitched at by Mark Lyle, Chief Starter for NHRA, pre-stage, bring motor to 6500 rpm, fully stage wait for the 3 amber bulbs to light at the same time, and dump the clutch as soon as you see Amber. If you wait to see green, you just lost. Math gurus were brought in to calculate the speed of light and they now time the tree so IF YOU definitely see amber, you mathematically can not redlight. Then the fans stand up, cheer on their favorite driver {Fast Jack Beckman} and listen to the track announcers play by play thru the tracks very fine P.A. System, created by.... Klipsch.
  18. thanks for the input. bottom line is, I have a pair of forte ones. I have spoken with Steve, and he told me that any placement within even a few feet of your back/side walls will really degrade the soundstage. now, my room is average width, but about 30 feet long. it's a den and my Dad and I used to be able to, by angling the den, create an official 33 foot air rifle/ pistol "range" . Also, the ceiling is rather low so I am not sure if that is good or bad. I guess talking the 2 watter, it would be good, but I can not get out of my head how emphatic he was that the speakers NEED to be out and away from walls to make you imagine a real stage, with proper left/right, as well as depth, and instrument placement imagery to be ideal. I assume I would put some slight camber {Caster?} or toe in as well but just mildly so, to help improve the imagery of the soundstage. Ie., speakers pointed IN, but by no means AT your ears. And yes, raising them, IMHO, would be immensely helpful for instrument placement... Does any of this sound correct, or more like the ramblings of a mad man. Quite mad, actually.~ Utilizing British Accent. BTW, what is the 1 watt@ 1 meter {or whatever the official measuring unit is} of the Forte Ones? I vaguely recall 98db? Sound right? Thanks! John
  19. Have any of you guys listened to any of the 2 or 6 watt Decware Tube Amps thru CWs or Forte's? Was wondering if there is any punch at all from the 2 watts. Thanks, John
  20. OK, I see quite clearly they are twos. Waiting for my "Warning Points".
  21. Are they Forte ones or twos? If I missed the answer, my apology. Consider it a BUMP. Good price BTW, IMHO. John
  22. OK, To answer the FIRST great question, a New Member is to "Not Guilty", as a Brand New Member is to "100% Absolutely Not Guilty"... {O.J. Simpson} Secondly, no, I have NOT repaired them yet, as I am in a dilemma in regards to moving to a smaller home, which would probably be a much more "Near Field" type of listening experience, which I (Who is a BRAND New Member, we must all recall), feel the Fortes may project the soundstage somewhere behind my Big Head (Seinfeld Reference), if, indeed, sound waves could get back there, which would require a somewhat deranged and multi angle path, in order to reach it's target, ie. 6-8 feet behind my Big Head, thus rendering the Fortes into an annoying, Coby Stereo type of living, breathing Hell. Next Question?
  23. The wifes' cat DID have a scratching post, the carpeted power supply section of my 2200 watt Ham Radio Linear Amp... Fixed that, which is probably what took my eye off the front of my Fortes.... Thanks for all the comments! I am overwhelmed. I will look into the upgrades you guys have suggested! John
  24. Front Active. BTW, you guys are on the ball! Most forums I belong to take a few days for some dude to say "Dude, I wish I could help you out, but I can't". LOL!!! Also, do these speakers have much value. In that question, I mean I have heard about Mods to the crossovers, etc. and am wondering if combining the repair with a mod. would be worth it, or just a waste of money. Thanks again, and I'll go check the link Bill gave me. Thanks, as you can tell, I'm kinda bummed out about the whole thing, but I should have Known better. When not in use, I place them face to face, one side against the wall and the backside of the other against a 2x12 guitar cabinet... John
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