Dave A

1000% RIGHT Titebond Ultimate not much more and has advantages.

OK all EQ and PEQ in Xilica and Windows Media Player EQ set to default (0) all the way across. Smoothing is default setting in RTA. Crossover is 400 for 402's and 450 for SMWM's

Two way system with 1132 drivers on the 402 You bet when I get somewhere worthwhile. What I did with my attempt last night sounded worse than what I did fiddling by ear.

This was done at 500hz and I am thinking of going to 450.

OK first meaningful data collected on the S-MWM. This is the full system in my typical listening spot with a bit of EQ tinkering. Not all the way there yet. True RTA is the data collector. We were getting odd results and as it turns out the culprit was the speaker size setting inside the Dell sound control panel. It was set to small and needed to be, oddly enough, the large speaker. Thinking of putting Claude's favorite Eminence woofer in there to see how it does on the low end.

I have it set up and I have fiddled with it a fair amount to get it sounding good on the Xilica. It is REW that is the problem right now.

Well I though these were gone but they are not so back on the market. Two K-400 style heavy cast aluminum horns and drivers. Two square magnet woofers and OEM crossovers and most of the L-Pads. I have no idea if the L-Pads and crossovers are right and not going to bother to find out. $300 + shipping. If anyone is interested and needs to have pictures posted I will do so. OK for all the loyal followers of this thread SOLD SOLD SOLD😀 Also just to eliminate any possible confusion may I mention these are SOLD SOLD SOLD!!!

Well that sounds good but here is the problem with software and learning on your own by trial and error and crap documentation. You can spend a ton of time to get to what you think is the right place with it only to find out later there were best practices that would give you better and quicker results. You can go on for some time thinking you have it all solved only to have some whiz bang at it see you work your "magic" and when he is done laughing show you how it is really done. It is not that it can't be done but my tolerance for stumbling through the process has about had it after 15 years of CAD and CAM programs. I would rather learn best practices to begin with and save myself the problems DIY can cause with software.

Everyone gets to do this once in their life but yes it is NOT something to gage normal selling prices by. Bet you never get a deal like that again.

I have updated these clamp plates to fit more drivers. For the K-77 type we have These holes are 3" or 76.2mm and for 5mm socket head screws, 2.252" or 57.2mm 5mm socket head and 2.001" or 51mm and 5mm socket head. Of course not all drivers that fit on here will fit where the K-77 goes although some of the pro gear with K-77's have enough room for the DE10 if you wanted to. On the larger K-79,76 2.54cm type large MAHL's we have this It has the same set of holes as the small MAHL with the addition of 3" or 76.2mm for 1/4 20 socket head screws. The 1 3/8 18tpi internally threaded plate for both lenses has not changed.

No where near as good for me in my setup.

Here is a tip for you I have found works for me. On those 402's if you angle them so they focus on an imaginary point behind you in stead of pointing right at you things open right up. Would you mind PMing me those PEQ's when you get them?

Since vinyl is making a comeback the well equipped audiophile library must have https://highend-electronics.com/products/walker-audio-talisman

Yeppers you are right they are all pro. I thought the TAD's were all pro drivers? Well when you donate yours to the cause I will only have to find one more donor right

I was referring to Roy's comments regarding pro in general in another thread and not specific drivers or why he chose them. I assume he does quite a lot of testing for every choice and then has to get them by the bean counters.

That "everyone" is an exceedingly small group you will find. I bet on this forum the total number as a guess is less than 20. Probably true but Roy has also been on the forum to mention that pro gear was designed with more headroom. The effortless larger presence of superb output I have found as I moved up the pro food chain was remarkable. I would take a pro driver over home owner any day. Speaking of which weren't all those TAD's also pro oriented?

Going to try another route here for now. Mark is familiar with TrueRTA and I have downloaded this and will have a go at it. Perhaps this will work and if not I am in the hunt for someone in the general area, southern middle Tennessee who uses xilica and REW and bi-amps who would be willing to have me stop in and be tutored. There are too many things to be overlooked here that will cause problems and I have been down this road before with cad and cam software. All you regular users of these kinds of things assume I have done the correct entries and setup but no one sees it to really know. So problems are baked in right from the start and odd things happen and with my crappy internet we go no further. In the mean time looking for good videos on these topics.

I would listen to Roy but not so much the other commenters. Don't let people who have not heard this combination sway you. What do your ears tell you? I know what mine tell me. The active will bring another whole level to the table so there is improvement yet to come. The active will also allow you to balance output precisely and this matters. I have two Crown xli800 amps and one needs gain turned up to be even with the other. It's your money to spend but if it were me I would be in no hurry to change things and in fact I am not interested in even looking further. The sound quality reaches a certain level and I am satisfied. I am curious though as to why you seem intent on switching your drivers. What precisely do you think you will gain?

OK this is a call for help. I have the 402's and S-MWM's sounding great but I suspect there is more to be found. My internet is so lousy, thanks you crap heads running ATT, that I could not even upload a 2.6mb file to Claude much less share screens and let him run things. SO I am back to needing someone who knows how to use REW and a Umike and the Xilica to do final tweaking. Doing things over the internet is just not possible here as amazing as that may be to many of you. Willing to drive and have REW loaded and ready to go on a laptop I can bring back with me. Yes I know that does not help set my system up but if I could at least be trained on what to do I can take it from there.

I have had a chance to hear the older 1132's and their phase plugs and also hear some 1132's I had reworked with new current production phase plugs and I have no idea what Roy did but there is a clear improvement. This was done on the 402's + S-MWM's back to back and the new ones stay.

OK I must be missing something here. The 1132 goes to 18khz and is admirably suited for two way systems based on my personal experience. It also has no apparent problems crossing over at 500 or 450hz. So why are some of you saying this is the wrong driver for this purpose? All I can tell you is the buyers for those two way KPT-456's with 1132 drivers and those who have heard my 1132 + K-402 on MCM 1900 MWM bins and the S-MWM's are in awe. Ziggurat got a great combination with that 1132 and K-402 as far as I am concerned and based on personal experience.

Well I can't find what made me think the 1132's were offered as stock alternatives nor who I talked to regarding Jubilees that got me to thinking that. What I can say though is on top of KPT-456's and MCM 1900 MWM bins and on top of my S-MWM bins the 1132 + 506 or 402 horns sound great but as you say these are not exactly home audio production. But that in itself is an interesting comment as some of us are finding the headroom on pro gear far surpasses the home owner audio in quality of output and is that not what it is all about?

Quantum leap indeed and once you hear it nothing else ever quite measures up.

Hey Dean there was lots of public discourse but it was face to face and no anonymous keyboard warriors. Outside of this forum I am going back to those days more and more. You see people eating out and the whole family sits there with their dumb smart phones and no conversation. Go to a tractor pull and same thing.

My vote is yes there is no science or methodology needed to build amps. If you have proper empathy with and can emote with your audio device well you can become an audio synergistic village of man and electronics melded into something that surpasses mere technical abilities and methods. How you feel in relationship to your amp will produce much more as your feelings guide you in ways that empirical methodology never could to superb sound.