Dave A

I think even though the one looks like black measles it will be OK. If I ever sell these things though I figured they would beat me down because of it. That is why I want to know about the weights because if I can make the perfect KG4's work properly in the Fortes I will switch them in a heart beat. So I am back to can anyone tell me specifically the difference between KD-12's and 13's. I think you are probably right on the slight weight differences audibly and I have switched them and can't hear any notable differences. My big concern was travel on the passive cone meant for different woofers and I have no idea what the other ramifications of substitution will be. Klipsch did not just arbitrarily decide to make these different.

I have a specific reason for asking by the way. I have a pair of Fortes with little bitty cat claw holes in the passives. I need to either slobber some speaker cone glue on them and hope or replace them. I can't find any KD-13's but I do have a pair of KD-12's if they could be made or are already a sonic match for the 13's. Anyone with knowledge on this I would sure like to hear from you.

" Don't go by Houston prices. Used prices in Texas seems to be retail plus 10%! It's hard to find a deal where you are. " Don't go by middle Tennessee prices either because by your standards we are 10%++ I wish I could find prices as low as you are always talking about. For the past year and a half I have never seen Fortes or Chorus I's or II's or La Scalas for sale even close to your "average" prices in the middle Tennessee area. How do you generate your averages? Speakers are scarcer now than a while back and more expensive unless they are beat up. Heresy's sometimes can be bought for $400 never less if in good shape. So where are the deals located that generate your low averages? Maybe there are some around here that have sold as cheap as you claim but they must go really fast.

I had a KD-12 and KD-13 side by side today and I could see no difference. Could someone explain what the difference is and can a KD-12 be altered to work as a KD-13?

Just think John, it could be all your's

OK what would make it tuned for a large theater environment and what impact does that have on regular two channel stereo use?

I like these better than Heresy's. The 262's have Crites rebuit crossovers and new Eminence woofers. recoated in Duratex. I am not sure what the difference here is between these and 260 since they sound the same to me. The 260's do not have grilles but otherwise are in top shape. Rebuilt crossovers and recoated with Duratex these look good and sound good. $450.00 per pair and if there is interest I will upload pictures later today. The price on the 260's will go up soon If I end up buying a sheet of perf metal to make grilles with. Southern middle Tn is the location.

Bump

Looks to be a variant of a Heresy but way more complicated crossover. What was the purpose of doing this and did it require different woofers and mids/tweets than the Heresy's? If this crossover does something special I would like to build a pair. The guy had just the two cabinets and one TH-SR-2 and one TH-SR-3 crossover and all the guts were gone so I am left guessing. It wont take much to upgrade the TH-SR-2 which was designed to work without a tweeter. Why would Klipsch elect to do that anyway? Kind of wondering if all the extra stuff on the crossover was for a K42 and not a K22 woofer.

Anybody have some they wish to sell? I bought an oddball set of Theater Heresy cabinets and now I need to fill them.

"This speaker-repair-center is kind of a crap shoot unless there are some folks here who have used them. " Yes for sure. I bought a re-cone kit from simply Speakers where they stated it was a direct Klipsch parameter replacement and then when I asked for exact specs it was 96db and not 98.5. My problem is the pile of growing speakers like K-43 and K-42-kp"s I have and would like to restore these. Klipsch is expensive and for the money Eminence makes fine speakers. I have never tried Crites but I don't believe he had a direct replacement for the K-42-KP's of which I now have five. The K-42-KP is a problem because the recommended replacements I have bought all are a bit different in the casting size so either the four clamps wont clamp or the woofer hole needs to be routed out or both. Finding quality speaker repair has become a real problem for me and new Klipsch prices take to much out of my pocket to ever come out ahead in repairing Pro speakers for sale. I may just start machining clamps for the KP speakers myself and eliminate that problem at least. The only Nashville speaker repair guy left has had a set of K-42-KP's for over four months now and I have had next week done promises five times and he was paid in advance for this. Went by his house last week on an unrelated trip and he told me, after promising me they would be done the day I stopped in, the re-cone kit people had sent the wrong one.

Hi John, I had the same fuse question for a pair of KP-320's I bought recently. Marked on the input cup was 4 amp low and 1 amp hi. What was in there was 20 amp and the woofers had been blown up literally. I was told that pro speakers came with 20 amp fuses from the factory per installer requests so they would not have to climb up in the air to fix things. The speakers were supposed to be protected electrically downstream from either remote fuses or other electrical circuit limiters. If this was not done then follow what is on the input cup was the advice I was given.

Parts Express has a new link to a re-cone service with prices so cheap I wonder about it. I may take a chance on it for one speaker just to see. https://www.speakerrepaircenter.com/studios I wonder just how does one check a kit out for specs that duplicate the original. Is there some way to measure this?

OK that has bearing on what I want to do. I specifically and only I am interested in working on a speaker or driver one at a time to verify there is no voice coil problems primarily rubbing of any sort. Again what I want is feed back from someone who has used this type of device to analyze this specific problem of voice coil rubbing which I assume this is for. I want to speak to someone who has done this with this type of equipment to learn specifically what to do. The guy who was using this type of device is considered the best speaker recone guy in Nashville now and he checks speakers this way. I assume since he does it for a living there is a reason he does it this way. He is not going to show me how to do this so I need advice from someone who will be willing. I want to know why he does it this way and not with software and IPads phones etc.

OK I can believe in software because I use it daily for design and machining. I looked at REW though and it appears to be for a different purpose than analyzing a single driver for things like voice coil rubbing. The guy I saw use one went from low to high Hz and back and would listen for any frequencies that caused strange noises and check ohms out to. If they had no bad noises and ohmed OK he would say they were good. What I want to do is specifically test individual speakers for problems. How does REW allow for that? I don't care about rooms I just want to check drivers with speakers I am working on. I have the B&K manual and thanks for the link. What I want is to talk to someone who has used one of these before for speaker testing. I am open to alternatives but the speaker rebuilder used a function generator and this thing only cost me $59.00 with shipping so if it does the job I don't want to look further.

A guy who has repaired speakers for me in the past used a frequency generator to test speakers with. Has anyone here done this and if so can you explain exactly what this does? I bought a B&K 3011B off EBay pretty cheap and can duplicate the sounds I heard when the speaker guy did it but don't know how to interpret what I hear.

What these guys say. There is a propensity here to throw dollars at things and many times I begin to think it is bragging rights driven. I can understand if it is a hobby and people with gobs of cash want to play around but I am assuming the OP wants an economical effective solution that works for his purpose. I intend to buy an Onkyo 8270 and use it to drive audio from my PC workstation to whatever speaker I am using that day. I may at times use it to feed my Crown XLi 800 because I think the commercial amps provide a more realistic concert performance environment since it is a commercial amp and produces the sound you hear at concerts the way it was produced at concerts. But it was only $235.00 delivered and has way more power than my ears could ever stand. These are the only things I would ever buy at this time to feed my speaker monsters using my PC as a source. Good cheap used Crown amps are all over the place if you want to go that route. Check out the Onkyo specs and that yummy DAC: 384 kHz / 32 bit output for just $100 dollars more at Parts Express. As cheap as $439 on ebay with factory warranty. Or buy this and that and the other thing and tinker.

There is a supplier of 1" Baltic Birch in Nashville. 5'x5' for basically $50 each with tax. It is not that much more than 3/4" and I bet a lot stiffer. My bet would be it would have to help too. I know the best sounding La Scalas I have had out of five sets are the Industrial one piece fiberglass coated ones that I kept for that reason. Yes the K43 woofer helps but the stiffer cabinet does too I am certain.

I have searched the forum and the crossovers sticky and I can't find the schematic for this KP-3.2B KP-320 crossover. Anyone have this?

I have a pair of KP-480-SW's. They look like KP-115's but the input cup says KP-480-SW Passive Crossover. Is there any information on KP-480 variants you have"

Got my B&K 885 in and the answer is no they cant be measured in place. Going farther than this with analytical equipment wont happen here so it looks like cut , measure and resolder.

So what did the 1" plywood do for the sound quality? I am thinking of building a Cornwall or Cornscala out of 1" Baltic Birch and figure it has to help.

ANYONE please help me answer this question. I have people beating me up on a listing telling me that my KP-480-SW's are KP-115's even though the input cup says KP-480-SW. I know not everything with Klipsch is well documented at times but I have a problem and I sure wish somebody could answer this.

Still looking for info on the KP-480-SW. Anyone know anything about KP-480 variants? I have questions people are asking me I can't answer so any help is appreciated.

Need to find four of these.