Khornukopia
-
Posts
3090 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Khornukopia
-
-
14 hours ago, Thuan98 said:
Hi all,
I currently own ‘82 KHorn and would like to build an enclosure just like latest AK6
I need the dimension of the back board width. My existing back board is 9 inches wide.
If you own a pair, could you send a minute measure the width of the back board
I see the Volti work but no dimension listed.
Thanks in advance
Thuan
Just build your enclosure to fit your K-horn. Should not need to match the tail board dimension of a different speaker. As I recall, volti had a very detailed explanation of his procedure.
-
@HenningO It would be nice to find a direct replacement part but, if Klipsch is out of stock, you should search for an acoustically compatible tweeter with 96db sensitivity.
If it was me, I would build a bracket that MAYBE attaches to the back of the speaker cabinet and can support a tweeter above the top of the cabinet, or a bracket that attaches to the wall behind the speaker and reaches directly about the Palladium and mount this tweeter Aurum Cantus G2Si Ribbon Tweeter (parts-express.com), or a Radian LT 2.2 (and LT 2.2WG waveguide), or something similar.
-
On 4/20/2018 at 9:34 PM, mikebse2a3 said:
The lead on one side of the xover board just has a plus and minus sign for the wires and I assume this should be attached to a binding post that will connect to the wires coming from the amplifier and labelled "Audio Input".
I believe it has already been pointed out that there is a "T" next to these and they are the wires going to the Tweeter Binding Post for the crossover. To confirm this you should see that the (-) wire which should go to the (-) Tweeter Binding Post should be electrically connected the 100 ohm 25 watt resistor on the network circuit board.
On the other side there are four sets of wires:
"W + and -" which connects to the woofer
Yes
"M + and -" which I presume connects to a separate biding posts for the mid horn
Yes
+ and - HFIN which I take to mean High Frequency In and would go to binding posts for the tweeter
No.. These go to the HF IN Binding Post and are either directly connected to a second amplifier if Bi-Amping or are connected to the LF IN Binding Post via the external Jumper wire otherwise.
Note: you can hook these wires to the LF IN Binding Post if you never intend to Bi-Amp and save the cost of one set of binding post.
+ and - LFIN which I take to mean Low Frequency IN and I have no idea if I should need a fourth binding post for that.
This would be the connected to the LF IN Binding Post which is were you will connect the Amplifier wires to.
So do I need four sets of binding posts and how do I hook this all up. Also since I won't be bi-wiring these, do I have to run jumper wires between three sets of binding post (in other words everything but the posts for the audio in)
You need four binding post if you want the option to BI-Amp at some point in time otherwise you can get by with Three binding post by connecting the LF-IN and HF-IN to one set of binding post (For Amplifier Hookup) and thus eliminating the necessity for a jumper wire(if using a single amplifier) for the original BI-Amp option.
miketn
I borrowed this post about an AK-5, by @mikebse2a3 from a while back. It is good guidance but, try to find some pictures of the OEM AK-4 and study them.
-
1
-
-
I don't see any new models, but while browsing saw this special offer that some folks might be interested in. https://www.klipsch.com/spend-999-get-a-free-pair-of-t5-ii-anc-earphones
-
On 5/21/2021 at 10:30 AM, Chris A said:
I guess it is worthwhile to comment on what ... PWK was saying ...
The question was three times asked, "what makes the Klipsch loudspeaker sound so much better--in layman's terms?". Three times he answered: "the absence of distortion."
That is the attribute that attracted me to Klipsch speakers during my early years.
-
@babadono , I'm impressed with all the acoustic treatment you have shown in this thread. Big improvement to the sound quality (I am willing to presume) makes it worth all the effort.
-
1
-
-
I should had said K-401, the decades old upgrade to the K-400, as noted in the Klipsch Heritage Series Historical Reference Data.
"Nov 1987: The Aluminum K-400 horn was replaced with the K-401 structural foam horn resulting in slightly improved distortion figures."
-
It will be interesting to see if there is an upgrade to the K-400.
-
On 7/8/2022 at 2:44 PM, Tony Bryan said:
I live about 45 minutes from Hope and was wanting to get a tour. I pass the exit on the freeway a few times a month and wanted to finally see the place where the music is made.
If I lived that nearby, I would have visited several times since your post. If you haven't been yet and do see this post, here is an upcoming event.
-
2 hours ago, 83 LSIs said:
Post 14 type and post 17 source https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/my-restored-la-scala-are-finally-home-before-and-after-pics.1049638/
Thanks for the info. Better pictures over there.
-
1
-
-
On 1/30/2024 at 3:10 PM, babadono said:
A hollow wall with sheetrock on both sides is like a bass drum. Filling the cavity WILL help. Again we just don't know how much without measurements.
Stuffing the hollow spaces reduces the sheetrock resonance, which probably is as beneficial for the acoustic properties of the room, as adding the bass trap effect of the dense mineral wool.
-
On 9/27/2023 at 10:01 AM, JMeader said:
I went the veneer route
1) it took 3 4x8 sheets of veneer to get the grain flow right
2) I found a true wood working craftsman to do the job - best decision I made
3) the woofer bin is the most difficult, you need to get a lot of weight on each inside sheet during the glue drying process we used sand bags and a piece of train rail for weight. Because of this the bin area took 4 days alone to veneer that area. Also we first painted the very back of the bin black before veneering because we could not figure out how to veneer that space and it is already dark in that area anyway.
4) you will have to decide how you will deal with the surround edges of the tweeter and squaker area. there are a couple of ways to deal with these edges but you need to decide before you start the actual veneer process as you need to match grain flow.
5) We made paper templates for each piece and then laid them out on the 4X8 sheets for grain flow very important process
6) Would I do it again Yes my 1987 La Scala's I think were used in a bar atmosphere and were really beat up with scratches and gouges everywhere.
7) we decided to put a thin layer of MDF on all outside of the speakers this helps with the resonance issue know with this age of La Scala
Hope this helps and as always Enjoy The Music
What is the type of wood veneer you applied? Looks nice.
-
13 minutes ago, babadono said:
What was in the walls before retrofit? The pink stuff? And changing to rockwool helped LF standing waves? Got any measurements?
No pink stuff in the original interior walls. No recorded measurements that I have on file, but MCACC on screen displays at that time showed an improvement, and the audible 70 Hz nulls were greatly reduced.
-
On 2/10/2022 at 9:45 AM, babadono said:
A DIY flat pack from Klipsch? Too much room for errors to be made by DIYers in assembly then no end to the complaints. So I say it will never happen IME.
On 3/17/2022 at 11:27 AM, The Dude said:I thought the same thing, but then Danley Sound labs did...wonder how that turned out?
I believe the DSL flat packs were discontinued.
-
Picture just for size perspective. Early in life, I wanted VOTT speakers. Luckily, I saw and heard La Scalas at a party.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, KHG said:
My thought was to place rockwool insulation in the corner walls. The glass wall has me stumped.
Wish I had known to install Rockwool Safe-n-Sound into the interior walls while my house was being built. It was a lot of extra work to retrofit when dealing with some low frequency standing waves in my listening room.
-
On 1/22/2024 at 10:44 PM, KT88 said:
... At first I didn't really like the "carbon fiber" look on the K402, I first saw it in your thread on April 22, 2020. But I like it more and more, actually a very cool look. And certainly not as demanding to do as the wood veneer foils (which always look very well done on your horns).
Thanks. The random patterns do work the best. I had tried several different linear woodgrain patterns (not pictured), but the converging lines don't usually look as good within the horn shape. Another plus for the carbon fiber pattern is that in dim lighting conditions, the horns just fade to black.
On 1/23/2024 at 3:16 PM, KT88 said:Do you have the settings for an active DSP for the HF206? I would like to try it again if, for example, the 500 Hz range gets a little boost. The dispersion behavior in the K402 is very good with the HF206.
Thanks for your reply.I don't see my notes for the active crossover settings on those. Last year, I switched all my big horns to the Axi-2050 drivers.
-
On 1/24/2024 at 3:54 PM, OO1 said:
the Altec Model 19 cant be compared to a Lascala
Actually, if you place them side by side, wired to a speaker selector with level adjustments, a person can compare them. Just like any other speakers.
-
3
-
-
On 1/6/2024 at 7:47 PM, MMurg said:
... I got the KI-102-SMA-II Klipsch Professional “permanent installation” series speakers to uses as Atmos/DTS-X, to upgrade the Jubilee system from 5.0 to 5.0.6.
I like it.
-
1
-
-
-
On 1/15/2024 at 11:51 AM, dtximages said:
Anyone know how to get inside this thing? I'd love to just remove the back panel. I've been trying to think of the best way to go about this. Jig saw the back out? Then replace it a new piece of more rigid mdf or something?
You could remove the 18" driver and see that the large opening is enough to fit some proper length 2x4s inside for a few cross-braces. That would be the easier way, rather than sawing open the back panel, unless you plan a complex CNC'd web style brace.
-
@TonyTrex57 , If you type the @ symbol, followed immediately by the first few letters of the forum member's moniker, a drop box of names will appear. When you click the selection, it will set highlighted. Then when you Submit Reply, an alert will be sent to the recipient's notification box.
About your crossovers, posting your questions on the open forum will get you more opinions and the answers you receive can be seen by everyone.
When you are ready to install your new crossovers, have all the extra wires, connectors and tools lined up. Also a good idea to take plenty of pictures of the original installation for reference, and maybe share (easily downsized before attaching) pictures of the new parts, too.
-
I added veneer to the face panels of my set.
Your SVS amp might be EQ'd specifically for the SVS, but could be good enough for your new subs, since you have DSP adjustments.
Yes, the entire cabinet resonates, but maybe it was designed to be a huge passive radiator?
-
1 hour ago, nickyboy6100 said:
Could you explain some of the differences you experienced with the two woofers? I have had both and really can’t tell much difference between the two.
When I compared the K-43 vs K-33 in 2 La Scalas, the difference was not very noticable at "normal" SPLs.
With my Klipschorns, in my room, the K-43 sloped down at the lowest frequencies, but had a warmer upper bass response. Sometimes, I needed to switch off all drivers except one woofer at a time to focus on the comparison.
.jpg.e5c300ec827deecd44fa242f65d33c95.jpg)
La Scala Tweeter not working.
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Can you take a picture of the board (and downsize the picture file) and post it here?