toomnymods

Many thanks for all of your help.. now I just need to find out how to get into the server and see what format these files are being ripped to. seems that FLAC or AIFF would be my best option for sound quality correct? knowing the guy that hooked all of this up for me he probably chose damn mp3 as the conversion process. only way to get into this device is to log onto it thru my internet, but I don't know the address of it, so that's another problem. need the address so I can reconfigure this thing.. lol

so the best way to run the output audio wires would be either HDMI output if this player actually has one. It's not labeled input or output so who knows what it is.. I guess the other option would be analog outputs such as a rca wire? to the single analog output which is the orange output correct? heres a link to the picture of what I'm talking about http://s1digital.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/S1Digital-SpecSheet-H5CD.pdf Sorry for being so ignorant and asking all the dumb questions, lol I've spent well over 10k bucks in the past 3 months and just really mad all of this is so difficult. I haven't really had any audio purchases in the last 15 years as far and audio equipment so a ton of this is new to me.

I've found that the optical TOSLINK S/PDIF is actually crippled by the manufacturers to preclude piracy. CD is 44.1 kHz, so if it's saying 48 kHz, something is converting to PCM internally. I've found on my pre/pro that this conversion is a significant source of degrading the sound quality (SQ). USB usually has some issues, so I usually recommend HDMI, since it has the least crippling aspects of DCRM on the SQ. YMMV. If you cannot play SACDs in native DSD, and it says "DSD" in the display, then something is usually converting to 48 kHz PCM and degrading the SQ. I've had no issues with the Onkyo pre/pro and separate amplifiers. This cost considerably less than $3K...closer to $1K refurbished. Chris so hooking up via hdmi would offer better sound quality? I don't know if that is a hdmi input or output? this thing didn't come with any type of instructions and ive been trying to call this company for the past week and they never answer the phone. this has been the most aggravating experience ive ever been thru in my life. took me 3 weeks just to rip half of my audio disks and I gave up doing anymore cause the audio quality still isn't up to my liking. what is a sacd? and DSD? I don't have a clue about any of this and all these formats.

I'm looking to increase my sound quality while playing audio cd's but don't have a clue in this new "digital" world of how and what and where to play the files from or even what format to record them to. I want the clearest sound possible and my friend told me that adding a preamp / processor would help my sound stage immensely for my movies and home audio. I'm already planning to add a Emotiva XPA-5 external amp to take the L/C/R and L & R surround duties off of my Yamaha RX-A3050's plate. This should hopefully free up some headroom on the yammie and get more wattage to the rear surrounds and my 4 atmos speakers. Which preamp/processor would you guys look at getting? Really don't want to spend over $3,000 on this but I know this is probably one of the most important pieces of the puzzle. I noticed that Emotiva's XMC-1 pre/pro looks nice but is missing the DTS-x, and Atmos processing capability. Would the Yamaha version be better? What type of device should I be using to play my cd music from? I noticed Bluetooth from my phone while convenient sounds horrible imo. I recently bought a S1 Digital media server http://s1digital.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/S1Digital-SpecSheet-H5CD.pdf and have been using this for the past 2 months and definatly sounds better than the "Bluetooth route" still lacks superior sound quality. Maybe I just don't have it hooked up with the best audio output wire to the yammie. Right now I have it hooked up via the optical port and everything I've been playing is "straight off the cd" with no compression or conversion. but still says 48khz when looking at the quality of the audio. Says its capable of playing 192khz how do I get the max audio sound quality out of this thing?

What makes these speakers so expensive? I've never heard them, so is it just the nostalgic "look and sound" of these that make them sought after? Or is the sound that much better than any new design they are currently producing?

I'm looking for a gen 2 or gen 3 Emotiva 3 or 5 channel amplifier.. Prefer a amp with no blemishes on face..

are you happy with your performance of the Emotiva Xpa-5? do you have the gen 2 or 3? whats the difference between the 2? looks like major power supply changes and the ability to add more channels at a later date if you'd want to upgrade it even further? if this is the case I could start out as a simple 3 channel emotive and eventually upgrade into a 5 channel in a year or so. Upgrading the amp is this something that is plug and play like installing a graphics card in a computer? just wondering if I'd have to send it in to get done or something I could do my self? this would play a major role in which amp I decide to buy.

Do you think that would be the best thing to do youthman? take all the front speakers off of the Yamaha? wouldn't I need a 5 channel? or would you just leave the front atmos speakers on my towers playing on my Yamaha, but have the rest of the tower playing on the other amp?

After owning my receiver for about a week and playing some DTS-HD, and Dolby Atmos blu-rays I noticed I was only getting 5.1.4 out of my 11 channel receiver. I didn't realize that I would need a extra amp to get those extra two rear surrounds to play during the movies Needless to say I was pretty ticked, lol Anyways I'm wanting something that either I can take most of the load off of this receiver and put all my front channels L/C/R and front atmos tower speakers onto this new amp. This would leave my Yamaha to amplify the side surrounds, rear surrounds and ceiling atmos speakers. Any ideas of a super clean amp that'd work well with my Yamaha?

Need some posters and stickers added to the store!! Maybe some type of wall plaque for the mancave or home theatre with klipsch logo with the DTS-X logo and the Atmos logo on each side of the klipsch logo would be nice..

where are you downloading a atmos demo disk at? I'd love to see this as well

Do you have the RP-140 atmos speakers plugged into the "Height" location on your receiver? Some bluray tracks even though they are 7.1 DTS Atmos you have to manually find the correct sound field to get the height speakers to play.. I know On my Yamaha RX-A3050 It has atleast 30-40 different sound fields and only 5-7 of them are 7.1 and only 2 or 3 will enable "ATMOS" their should be a "information" button you can push once you change the sound fields to show you on your tv which speakers you are having sound played thru by your receiver. This will take a lot of getting used to and is quite annoying for someone new, as I'm in the same boat as you and was ticked I couldn't get my new ATMOS speakers to work, lol But what really sucked for me once I added a second set of rear ATMOS ceiling speakers and went to 7.1.4 most 7.1 movies for me only play 5.1.4 now even with my 11 channel receiver my back two rear surrounds refuse to come on..

I'm wondering why the RP line of speakers do not have a bookshelf style of speaker for "direct fire" applications for Atmos and DTS-X setups I'm fully aware of the RP-160M's but these cannot be Keyhole mounted on the wall. Many people do not have ideal conditions with wide enough rooms to run speakers on stands taking up valuable real estate in the middle of their rooms. As their is couches that take up most of the wall spaces and other furniture. Is their any plans to make a "New style" RP-160M that can be hung on a wall that has the "port" in the front of the speaker enclosure? if not can you point me to some Klipsch speaker that is direct fire that can replace the RP-250S's purchased as the "broadcast" style effects for atmos surround sound isn't really appealing to me and I need something that can work with my setup.

I love this!! awesome work.. I have a ton of RP equipment and would love for my equipment to sound even better than it already does.. is this something easy most people could do with guidance from someone such as ur self from over the internet? I know how to solder and have a very nice propane torch soldering gun made for electronics with many different tips..

I have a relative question to this topic.. Hope you don't mind me asking mine as well here? All of my front channels have speaker wires of 6-7ft max and the side surrounds, have about a 38 ft run, rear atmos ceiling about 42 ft, and 50 ft run on my rear surrounds. I would've thought my receiver would do a better job at balancing the sound levels of my system but during a movie the front sound stage is soo overwhelming I can hardly hear the sound effects at all in the rear channels and in the side surrounds. Do you think the speaker length of wires has something to do with this or is it just how the Yamaha receivers program naturually sets up the sound stage? Just wondering.. Really new to all of this stuff. List of all my equipment in in my signature..

I tried playing The Last Witchhunter 4K UHD bluray movie with DTS X today and I wasn't impressed at all. My Yamaha receiver didn't have a clue how to decode the data and just shoved 4 channels into the side surrounds. It was quite annoying to say the least. Yes I have the latest firmware update for the Yamaha RX-A3050 as well. Their seems to be lots of bugs they will have to sort out for this new technology to make me a believer.. Still on of the best movies I've seen thus far has been on a normal bluray which happened to be the newest Starwars movie which came out last month which I believe was recorded in DTS 7.1 master HD ?

its in title of the thread.. Yamaha RX-A3050

I'm trying to run the YPAO and set all the speakers to small to let the sub handle all the low bass response. but every time I run this program it reverts everything back to being large speakers. If I go back in there after I run the program and save it, then go to manual and change everything to small speakers will it override the YPAO AUTO configure settings? Really all Im wanting to do is try to let the receiver do all the hard work, but just go in and make 1 small adjustment and make all the speakers set to small so I can take a big load off of the receiver and get more headroom and clarity. will this work?

No Latest me and the wife ever watch a move is 10:30pm.. and even then it isn't super loud as our son sleeps in the next room we usually keep it around -28 on my Yamaha RX-A3050 receiver. I just cant fathom how much bass 6-9 15" subs would put out, lol I like bass too but cant even imagine how'd youd insulate a house against letting this amount of bass get outside of it.

my house must be insulated like crud then.. Already ticking off both my neighbors and all I have is a single R-112S subwoofer in a brickhome. It shakes the walls pretty bad in my home but is barely audible outside, is it possible for the soundwaves to get louder again once inside another house next door?

he must live on 200 acres of property as anyone within 2 miles would hear 6 18" subs with that amount of power, roflmwao..

Thanks for the help guys I got some experimenting to do this weekend

When people mount the sides and rear surounds how do they know how to measure the correct height? Do they go off of the center of the enclosure as the measuring location? The driver? Or the tweeter? What excactly needs to be at Atmos specification level? Thanks

When people mount the sides and rear surounds how do they know how to measure the correct height? Do they go off of the center of the enclosure as the measuring location? The driver? Or the tweeter? What excactly needs to be at Atmos specification level? Thanks

I'm using the Yamaha autocalibration with their mic set up on the couch with the mic at the same height as my ear level. Although I do agree the right /left surrounds and rear surrounds are mounted too high as per atmos standards. I tried to tell the installer this but he bulldozed his way into pretty much stating I've been doing this 32 years I know what I'm doing crud.. So I'm Going to relocate the speakers down atleast a foot temporarily and see how that sounds, cause right now the bottom of the speakers is pretty much 6' off of the floor for all of the wall mounted speakers. I'm hoping and praying this helps as I'm tired of spending money on speakers and I'd like to start saving for a Samsung 85"or so 4k UHD tv.