Maximus89

$1500 for the one with the new crossovers, $1100 for the AL with a bad diaphragm(Again, I have a replacement unopened that I never got around to installing). For a veteran forum member, I can do all 4 for $2,300 which places each pair at $1,150. But, veteran forum member only...don't want some guy joining up right now after reading this and PM'ing me with just a few forum posts or a 10/13/17 join date lol...

Good deal. You'll be right at fair value after you spend 300+ or so on new crossovers to replace those AL's, minus the 100 or less you can sell the AL for on eBay. I love the raw birch cabinets!

Massive Star Wars fan, but keeping my expectations tame as i found TFA and Rogue One to be pretty sub par and generic films.

Yeah he recently responded to my emails usually within that day so he's active if you ask him questions.

I have some cheap car speaker wire connecting the new crossovers to the input bc I was too lazy to get anything else. *Oh and the terminals are basically for banana plugs only which I don't have enough of, so I had to tape the speaker cable lol b/c the hole is way too small for speaker cables. Never got around to ordering more banana plugs.. the one pair with the stock AL crossovers has the fuses in them, I also have the fuse and fuse caps for the new crossover but not being used as I cut that line since not necessary for home use.

The other, is used as a center speaker while the other is marked and stuffed in a closet bc it needs a new diaphragm for the K-77 tweeter. I’ve got one from simply speakers that I never put in. Thats a peice of tape so I can remember which is the tweeter that needs the diaphragm in case I go getting the top bins mixed up

1 pair

Example of what I mean. The plastic protection for the dog house front edge is perfect on 1 pair and ugly and rough on the other pair. Obviously you can just take them off but I left it on bc I was moving them around and didn’t want to damage that perfect edge

Ugggghh. That’s the only photo that it lets me upload. The others are too big

Yes except for the plastic corner protector on one pair are ugly and rough but can take them off and the corners are perfect underneath. I’m taking some quick photos but this size limit is a real pain.

Those are mine. I'll get better photos of all 4 as soon as i can. I had to use those photos from a few months back b/c they're currently outside of the top bin in order to have easy access to attenuate the tweeter and mids to my liking. Still playing around and didn't want to close them up without settling on a setting.

That's too far of a drive for me!

@Frzninvt Turns out you were right. Al says only KHorn, la Scala, Belle and Heresy. Surprised works for the Heresy but not Cornwall. Anyway, that's disappointing. I wanted to give it a shot in the Chorus II's.

I’m sorry but that doesn’t make sense to me. You’re saying it’s limited to the big 3 heritage only and you think saying “nearly” ALL 3 way Klipsch speakers confirms that? He could have just simply written “for the Klipschorn, La Scala and Belle ONLY.” I suppose only only one way to find out. Let me send Al an email and get back to you.

Yep. I went from Yamaha and Onkyo to Marantz and instantly noticed it was warm and better mated for my Chorus II or La Scalas. Now when I try to go back to the Yamaha or Onkyo, it's way too bright. My only issue with the Marantz and why I sometimes switch back to the Onkyo or Yamaha is that there's a lot of noise with the Marantz. Maybe it's just my receiver that needs repair, but there's tons of noise coming out of all speakers that I didn't hear with my Yamaha or Onkyo so it can't be a ground loop/noise b/c it wasn't there with the Yammy or Onkyo. The sound is a static/white noise that cuts in and out. Extremely annoying when I'm listening to 2ch music as my surround La Scalas are right behind my seat and I hear all the "shhhhhhhhhhhhhsssssss" blasting in my ear from the surrounds. (Marantz SR7007)

and the Cornscala But, not sure if that's correct. I don't see why he would write "The original "ALK Universal" replacement crossover network for the Klipschorn, La Scala and Belle Klipsch as been reimplemented to create an affordable option for nearly any Klipsch based 3-way loudspeaker."

It's built from ALK universal schematic, using solid wire inductors instead of Litz like Al uses and also the builder chose his own caps from the looks of it(anyone got any suggestions for higher end replacement caps for later down the line). They are called universal because they work in almost any 3 way Klipsch according to Al's website (alkeng.com). I did speak with Al and mentioned i was putting them in a La Scala and he didn't even mention anything about it, but mentioned the network would be fine. I'm almost 100% certain they can be used for Cornscala's, La Scalas, Belles and KHorns. I am curious though about "almost any" 3 way Klipsch as he describes in his website but doesn't explain which wont work. Does that mean i can also play with this network in my Chorus II? Anyone know?

Man...you're right about the fuses being a pain in the *** from the get go. Took a month just to find the right cap haha... I'm actually being forced to go 3 LCR with a single La Scala surround behind the listening position, and it might be for the best as im starting to miss the center for movies. The reason im being forced is b/c i used 2 front and 2 surround on a 7 channel Marantz and then for the first time decided to bi-amp using the rear channels. I noticed a huge difference right away and decided i would never not bi-amp. At first, i found it odd that the surrounds stopped working the moment i started to bi-amp the front 2. After a few days, they started working again and all was good. Then out of the blue, the surround left channel just stopped working. I freaked for a few nights thinking it was my LS that was bad, but then i did troubleshooting switching speakers and HF and LF bins with different lS and switching them to different channels and all signs point to surround L not working anymore. So therefor my only option is to use LCR with stereo being bi-amped and a single LS surround. Might be good enough for my small room.

Turns out i was hooked up wrong. The fuse wire that was soldered to the stock AL that i cut, left me a single positive wire to connect to the input on the new crossover with no negative to connect to the terminal. I got sound so i figured that's all i needed. But the sound was harsh and hurt my ears even at the lowest settings for attenuation, they still hurt my ears and i was still bothered that it wouldn't work if i took the fuses out. So i went in and cut all the wires going to the fuses and went in with my positive and negative wires from the input on the ALK universal to the terminal and now i have nice full bass that i never knew i could get out of the La Scala and the mids aren't hurting my ear and i've even raised the decibels louder on the mid just to test it and my ears are relaxed and enjoying some Sade right now. I'm happy

So i snipped the fuse wire that was soldered to the AL. That's all i needed i guess bc im hooked up and running. SO...apparently these are custom built crossovers based on ALK Universal schematic. Al says he didn't build them, and other than that "The tweeter / squawker filter inductors are the wrong thing. They are sold wire. They should be Litz. Other than that they are probably ok. Some of the parts are special from me and others are of his own origin" It's only been about 4 songs in and so far i'm really disappointed. I have yet to attenuate the mids or tweeters but right now compared to the stock AL, the mids are really harsh on the default 6/-0 setting. That's basically the only difference i hear from the stock AL right now. Too forward. I suppose the high freq. are a bit more noticeable but nothing that really stands out. Vocals still kind of sound veiled.

Basically do I just snip off all the wires that go to the fuses? I’m reusing the wires bc the guy didn’t ship the crossovers with any, so I basically have to buy wire and crimp on some of those connectors and just go positive to negative? Does Home Depot sell that wire? I guess it’s a perfect opportunity to use longer wire so I can set the crossover on top of my La Scala in order to play around with the attenuation. Do I need any special type of wire?

THe positive has a connection as pistured on the universal crossover and the negative input has a solder on the ALas pictured

I’ve got stock AL’s that I’m trying to replace with a different pair of crossovers. my issue is that the stock AL uses fuses so I’m trying to connect the input but there’s only one positive wire that goes from the input to the HF fuse holder which is also soldered and connected to the LF fuse holder which it’s wire is soldered to the AL crossover. what do I do here? How do I connect it to the new crossover without soldering. (I don’t have a soldering iron and I don’t know how)