Peter P.

Huh?! No.

Yes. The speaker wire acts like an antenna. To eliminate it you can try twisted pair speaker wire or shielded speaker wire. With shielded speaker wire you will have to experiment with which side is grounded and in some cases you will ground BOTH ends of the wire. If you can't find twisted pair speaker wire you can make your own by fixing one end of the wire pair and putting the other end in a drill chuck. No need to go crazy but twist it until you're satisfied.

"My problem is that I have a very hard time hearing and understanding the human voice." It's time for hearing aids. Resistance if futile-you WILL be assimilated.

What wuzzzer linked to is something called by its trade name, Panduit. You can get it at most hardware stores. We use it often at work. The metal Panduit is easier to mount straight since it's more rigid than the plastic version. It's also available in metal with pre-drilled mounting holes, and comes in various sizes and a couple colors, usually white and off-white. It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks like the beam does not meet the wall behind it. If so, I'd mount the Panduit on the backside of the beam and the speaker mounting brackets on the underside.

My opinion is, there is NO "right combination". Companies don't build equipment that only works well with certain other equipment otherwise they wouldn't stay in business. Or in other words, amp X doesn't interact with preamp Y differently than preamp Z making one more desirable than the other. Your end-result sound will be more affected by your room's acoustics than anything else. Buy what you like, enjoy the sound and don't sweat the minutiae otherwise you're chasing something you can't catch. Now, wait a minute so I can put on my flame retardant suit...!

I was just thinking-you know what else you could do-put a voltmeter on the speaker outputs, a voltmeter that measures frequency. My Fluke does. I'd be curious what frequency it is if it's not white or pink noise. If it's that audible I'd imagine it's an amp problem. Report back with whatever you find.

You've got the tools to test. Hook up your center channel amp to your RF-7 IIIs even if one at a time. Do you hear the hiss? Hook up the RF-7 IIIs amp to your RC-64 III and see if you hear the hiss. Do this with each channel of the amp. You can also do the paper towel tube test: Place the end of a paper towel tube against the opening of whichever compression driver you choose. Turn down the bass all the way. Turn up the treble all the way; it will just make it easier to hear the compression driver output. Listen at the other end of the tube. As you turn up the volume, does the driver make unusual sounds or is it just louder? Those tests, and comparing the results from each RF-7 and your RC-64,should convince you whether you've damaged your driver or the amp is not as quiet as you thought, although that hiss is imperceptible when audio is playing. If your amp produces a turn on thump, it's either not designed properly or it needs service. Even moderate quality equipment has a turn-delay circuit to eliminate that thump.

On eBay. Way over-priced and local pickup only, but a worthy addition if you have any speaker that doesn't dip below 50Hz, including older versions of Heresy. Heck, I think the KG SW is the only passive subwoofer that high pass filters the signal to the main speakers which is a smart idea. I don't think many powered subwoofers with speaker terminal ins/outs do that but please correct me if I'm wrong. I have a KG SW and I approve this message!

I agree and I tried looking for the Alerts section and couldn't find it. Now after your suggestion I went back to look and see it's a sub-link under Garage Sale. Thanks!

No relation/not mine. Way over-priced and local pickup only. But these are great for any speaker with a low frequency limit of 50Hz and up, including older Heresies. They don't come up for sale often. I have one and approve this message! KG SW Subwoofer on eBay.

Switch the tweeter between each speaker and see if the muffled sound follows the tweeter to remains with the cabinet. Pay attention to which wire connects to which terminal on the tweeter because it matters. Mark one wire and one terminal with a magic marker or tape. What your trying to do is determine whether it's the tweeter or the crossover. If you have a voltmeter you could also measure resistance across the tweeter's terminals after disconnecting at least one lead. Compare the two numbers and post back here.

Standard speaker wire is just fine. 16ga. wire will be able to carry all the current and voltage your system will ever need, for the distances of virtually all home theater systems. Yeah, you could crimp on spade terminals or banana plugs but they're hardly necessary. Have a handy wire stripper to make it easy. The practical difference between speaker wire and "lamp cord" is speaker wire is more supple but you could use lamp cord, available from your local hardware store, if you choose. All speaker wire is coded so you can tell at both ends whether you've wired things correctly. The + side at your electronics output (usually coded red) should be connected to the speaker's red terminal. You'll find one side of the two conductors has a rib or other shape to differentiate it from the other conductor ( minus or -) which is usually smooth shaped. Oftentimes it's hard to tell the difference in dark rooms so I prefer using red/black colored wire such as sold by Parts Express.

Get the largest Klipsch subwoofer you have room for. It's that simple. Bonus: All Klipsch subwoofers are ported, which is the preferred design for movie applications.

What's a "Detroit"?