Peter P.

Interesting concept; interesting speaker. Yeah; the price confuses me because you can buy a pair of Cornwalls for $2k less. It's not as efficient as a Heresy IV, and it's rare to see a 2-way speaker with a 12" woofer, but I imagine the woofer/tweeter pairing along with the crossover gives it a signature sound. I hope someone posts a link to a review when one is published. I think the greatest takeaway is the front vent. I sure wish the Heresy IV was front vented instead of rear ported, as much for flexible placement as for marketing the Heresy IV as a "mini-Cornwall" as I think a front vent adds to the distinctive bass quality.

You could try contacting Klipsch directly. Here's what I would do: Drill a 1/8" or smaller pilot hole in the bottom where one of the mounting screws would go. Drill SLOWLY so you can feel when the bit breaks through the wall. Mark that spot on your drill bit, remove the drill bit and measure the from the mark to the end of the drill bit; that's your thickness. You could also just remove the terminal cup on the back of the speaker and measure the thickness of the MDF there. It's likely the same thickness for all panels. Lastly, just use 3/4" screws and you'll be fine.

Get the largest, best performing subwoofer that you can afford and will fit in your room. It's that simple. The reason is, you can adjust the output level and crossover to blend in with your main speakers, unlike a main speaker whose specs are predefined. Your constraints are do you have the room to fit the sub without it getting in the way of anything. A subwoofer that fits in an open corner or under an end table or behind the couch should be a prime concern. I specifically looked for a compact subwoofer because I didn't have a lot of room to place one.

I think painting them black is a brilliant idea!

I looked at the photos. I appears the damage is to the veneer, but you can't tell if it's deeper unless you REMOVE the veneer. If your intent is to leave them as-is and enjoy them, then remove the woofers and peer inside. I'll bet you don't see any gaps forming. If you're still concerned you can always apply silicone or wood glue to the seams. If your intent is to restore them, you'll have to remove the veneer to see if the damage reached the MDF and level out the MDF underneath with wood putty, the reapply veneer.

Agreed. A wall that short would be overwhelmed by the larger Heritage speakers. Heresies with your SVS subwoofer is the same setup I have, against a 15' wall. You won't be disappointed. You should also consider the Klipsch floorstanding speakers as they have an even smaller footprint. They may lack a midrange driver or the cachet of the Heritage line, but I'll be you'd be surprised at their performance. Edit: Now that I see the photos and additional info you provided. I'd say replace the bookshelf speakers on the entertainment center with Heresies on each end and maybe replace those knick knack stands with something you can place over the Heresies: the Mrs. still gets to display her whatevahs, you get the speakers, and you'll save space. Forget any concerns about matching the timbre of the main speakers to the center channel; sometimes you just have to compromise.

Are you referring to the gasket material? I think so because the driver surrounds have nothing to do with the mounting to the "motor board". I would buy gasketing material and verify the speaker basket contacts the entire circumference of the opening. But first try clamping the damaged area down and see if it meets the same thickness as an undamaged area. You don't need fancy calipers to do that; you can use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench as your caliper. That will give you a good clue as to whether you're going to have issues. After that you can apply the glue and clamp down. Just place the speaker against the unfinished, ungasketed opening and confirm there is no rocking. Then apply the tape. You can always sand down a high spot, or apply additional layers of tape. You know, as a last resort you can always try to mount the drivers to the FRONT of the motor board. While not an original restoration, no one will know with the grills on and I'm sure they'll sound fine. I'd still glue down the damaged areas though.

First, I'd put the drivers back in place and trace the location with a magic marker on the inside of the cabinet. That will make it easier to position the drivers later on. Then I'd use wood glue and clamps to squeeze the wood back together. After all, that's how plywood layers are assembled. A sheet of wax paper between the clamps and the wood should prevent the clamps from sticking. Be careful about getting the glue on the pretty side of the cabinet. You may have to repair just the damage around one hole at a time. Fill the existing screw holes with wood putty. Re-drill and mount everything. You should be fine.

I bought a pair of Quartets once. Apparently the owner had a plant on one of them and water must have spilled onto the top resulting in a warped top. Probably too expensive to repair, but they still sounded great! Obviously we don't know what the cabinets look like (sure would be nice to see some photos!) but some bleach on the wood should kill the mold. The speakers might be worth relegating to the basement or garage shop.

You want a bayonet cap for an AGC fuseholder. Do a search for that term. You don't need the entire holder but if it's easier to find them and just use the cap then do so. You CAN however, get just the cap. Here's one from Digikey. Hopefully they ship to Italy, or you can find them in the EU.

That was going to be my suggestion. Either the acoustics or the dimensions.

Well now, I didn't want to seem snotty and say, "Why not ask Martin Logan?", so I did it myself! Here's the e-mail reply I received today. "Thank you for your inquiry & support of MartinLogan. The maximum speaker-level input voltage that the Dynamo 1600 subwoofer can handle before damage or distortion depends on several factors, including its input impedance and the design of the subwoofer's amplifier. For the Dynamo 1600, the speaker-level input impedance is 2,000 ohms (red to black). This impedance is relatively high, which means the subwoofer is designed to work with typical amplifier outputs without significant risk of overloading. To estimate the maximum voltage, you can use the following relationship between power, voltage, and impedance: Vmax=Pmax×RV_{\text{max}} = \sqrt{P_{\text{max}} \times R}Vmax=Pmax×R However, since the subwoofer's amplifier power is internal and doesn't directly relate to input power handling, it’s more about ensuring the input signal doesn't exceed the subwoofer’s amplifier capabilities. Given the high power rating of 900 watts RMS (1,800 watts peak), the internal amplifier is likely to be the limiting factor rather than the input voltage itself. Most subwoofers with similar designs can handle the typical maximum output voltages from consumer amplifiers without issue. Generally, as long as you are using a typical consumer amplifier, you should not exceed the safe input levels for the Dynamo 1600. " I sort of expected a real number like "X" volts as certainly there must be an engineering limit. I already knew and used Ohm's Law so it seems like I got a non-answer answer. Maybe the person was not as technically oriented as I would presume. Anyway, that's what I got from the horse's mouth.

Thinking about this while at work today, I figured out the 2k speaker level input impedance is so as to not load down the speaker outputs of an amp. And I'm probably using the wrong figure for the output wattage. I shouldn't be using that, but the output wattage of the amp. Assuming the 90W output of the Yamaha amp and an 8 ohm speaker, there will be 26V on the speaker inputs of the subwoofer. I'm sure the subwoofer amp is designed to handle speaker level voltages. The 900W output of the subwoofer is the result of the amp's gain, which is controlled by the sub's volume knob.

The Martin Logan's speaker level inputs have 2k input IMPEDANCE. Ohm's Law says 1340V will get you 900W output! Okay; what's wrong with my equation? Maybe you can't use input impedance to calculate output power?