Alexander

Sure. Here are the OEM vs home built xovers and the bracing that was done.

Hmm, will have to look into that, I had it in my phone from calling in the past. Not sure what is going on, sorry about that . Use this link – click help at the lower right and that will take you into chat with Klipsch and they should steer you in the right direction. https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002892291-In-Wall-In-Ceiling-Speakers

May give it a try, wouldn't cost me anything. But most likely won't be a keeper.

What model speaker? Then call 1-xxx-xxx-xxxx for Klipsch parts

Yea I figured it could be too large – but you never know it might had worked for someone.

In preparation of trying out the a55gs in the LS I had decided to put the klf-30s back stock aside from the Crites Ti in the tweets. After changing everything over in one cabinet I hooked it back up to the system to compare. Well there clearly is a stark difference, with less bass the mid/highs are brighter from what I am used to & rather ragged/harsh. Not to say it sounded bad but rather how much better the upgrades were. Now I am willing to bet the original caps still in the OEM xovers are not helping things. I think on the other cabinet I will pull just my home built xovers out and just put the OEM xover in to see what kind of difference it would make. Naturally I was expecting some of this going into doing this but it was a good bit more than I would have thought.

Did you find a mid horn for that a55g? You may already know this but the klf-c7 horn is a bolt-on and not a screw-on like the klf-20 & 30s. Have you considered looking for say a single klf-20 and make a custom motor board to re orient the drivers?

Thanks Drewg, neat to know they are true OEM. Now lets hope everything in the cabs still work. My friend picked them up “as is” so to speak. He never had them hook them up to give them a test. This leads to a question with the fragile k77s. I see quite a few members using ct125 & ct120s and few others + some I am not familiar with. Money will be an issue (as always) so for example are the ct120s worth the extra $$ over the ct125s?

I would suggest if at all possible audition the CW 1s before pulling the trigger on the CW IIIs.

Thank you all for posting your personal experiences with your LS. And please feel free to continue since I will be breaking new ground as this will be the first set that I will have listened to . Judging by a few pics I have received it looks like the AA xovers have the yellow MKT caps not the metal cans. I would have thought that 75 was too early for Klipsch to use them yet. Any thoughts? We are now knocking on 3 weeks away and quite anxious to setup these what appears to be pure stock LS.

Found some old posts on this forum through several hours of goggle searches.

No one that have had aa's went to the al3 xovers or the other way around? If so what was the outcome of the change over?

Just talking out loud right now. I currently use klf-30s + klf-c7 for HT front duty. But when I move I'll be able to use stock (at least to start) 1975 LS for two channel. Now I was thinking to cut down on the clutter of five speakers up front (14ft) if we used a forte II I have for a center. Has anyone done this and if so how well did they play together? This would make the move easier if we left the klf's to bring down at a later date.

Curious how the Anthem ARC sounds in 2ch mode? I have to run in “pure” or “direct”on my Denon with Audyss XT32 in 2ch mode, other wise it sounds all wrong, But when it is used in HT mode it really sounds great.

Depending on what part of the county you are in that may be an OK price. But in general as others have posted they are a bit rough for that price.

If I were to read the serial # correctly those would be 1984 20th week. Here is the link on how to figure this out, there is also a lot more info in there too.

In the next ~4 weeks I will be down in my Florida house (against my will). But the upswing would be there is a 14' x 20' x 8.5' room room that I can use a friends set of 1975 LS's. So looking for something to do I have the itch (again) to put together a crossover - this time for the LS. So here is the question, have been thinking about building the al3 xover but have seen so many times that the aa is used. Aside from maybe the decreased parts count of the aa is there a reason to go with the aa and not the al3? I should add that the OEM aa xovers will be left unmolested other than a possible re cap.

Sorry if I am missing something (I am actually legally blind) but is there a key to be able to discern which line correlates to which driver? White backgrounds are really tough on me.

Why not just get the one for sale on ebay? You are going down a path that has been tried many many times before to no avail. Just saying

Being that your klf-20s are soooo bright, is the room a very hard one? Void of things like carpet & soft surface furniture?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Single-Klipsch-k-48-E-Chorus-1-Woofer-15-Driver-Eminence-4-ohm-Works-Great/224226684012?hash=item3434f3ac6c:g:i4MAAOSwBLxfcNb3

Even though it is a 15” driver unfortunately it will not be a direct sonic replacement. The k48 in the Chorus I/II is vastly different from the k33 – this is what the Crites woofer offers to be a replacement for..

Just a reference, I would let more knowledgeable members comment if they feel there is some kind of concern.

Have you ever seen this about inductor placement?

Make sure you turn down the volume before hooking up just about any of the Klipsch models, most have at least 100db sensitivity in you price range. Good luck on you quest.