Emile

Yes; currently trying something like this. In my case CF-3 V2's with added JBL 2446H compression drivers on an 11x18 JBL horn (low cutoff 500hz). Haha; just love 2" outlet horns The CF-3's (supposedly) have a 1500hz crossover, so setting my LF at 1100hz (just a guess but it certainly should "eliminate" the CF-3's horn - and too lazy to disconnect it). HF filter is set at 550. Both have a 24dB slope. So; guess you could use a 1500hz LF and HF crossover and it should work without a problem. (FYI, I am using a Xilica which is probably overkill - miniDSP 2x4 HD should be enough.) Cheers, Emile

Haha; thanks - learned something

Haha; yes finally figured out one needs a "connected device." Oops ... I was talking PC, you were talking REW Thanks!

How to switch PC analog audio to USB audio on a laptop? @Chris A Haha, glad I am not the only one Yes, looks like some of those Topping ones might work. (And at about $100-150 who cares ). But they are all USB input types. Looked at switching my (older) laptop (Lenovo T450) from analog to USB audio out and have not found a way to do it yet. Worked with PC's for about a hundred years, but never with their audio sections. Maybe the PC is too old? (Have newer ones but of course "everything audio" is loaded on my old laptop.) There are also some cheap Chinese HDMI to analog converters on fleaBay ... but guess they are junk. Thanks, Emile Add-on; Looks like most devices are plug and play, maybe needing an additional driver. Never had any USB audio on my laptop, so there never was a dropdown option for it

Yes; do have (mini) HDMI out from laptop and should have a mini to standard connector (haha; "somewhere").. Unfortunately my Oppo (model BDP-83SE) does NOT have an HDMI "IN," only "OUT." Add-on; checked my Oppo BVD-103 and that one DOES have HDMI "in," but really do not feel like switching the units (as they are in enclosed cabinets - taking hours to get in/out). Think my dumb problem is due to a "default to standard setup" when I unplug the mic/audio. Will just keep everything "on" and "plugged in" between my initial measurements and subsequent "after" check - and document all settings Then I'll unplug and run another test to see if there were any changes. Hope to try it later today. Many thanks, Emile

OK; "old school." Do not have an external DAC, but (think) I could connect to my Oppo BDP-83SE. Might need some help with that but not sure why we want to go analog to digital to analog.

Haha ... identical setup. Preamp goes to Yamaha M-45 amp (120wpc) which drives the JBL horns. Preamp also goes to Kenwood Basic M2A (220wpc) that drive CF-3's. In REW I set the "make a measurement" to LEFT. Haha, have not gotten to RT yet Thanks, Emile

IBM Thinkpad, headphone out mini-jack with RCA splitter goes to preamp aux in. PC output is the standard Realtek High Definition Audio which I (think) is just analog. Yes; using a UMIK-1. Haha, now set up as per your instructions Thanks, Emile

Thanks @rplace Interesting thought, but 99.9% sure I did NOT change the PC volume (And ... happened twice.) Yes, sound comes from PC output to my preamp aux input. Cheers, Emile

Thanks again @Chris A NO; did NOT change any preamp/amp gain between the initial measurements (which came out at about 90dB) and the (attempted) check on my changes. And did NOT change the mic position. Haha, have NO CLUE. When I did the follow-up check the volume was much louder ... initially got a clipping error ... then lowered the volume substantially via my preamp ... the REW result was still over 120dB Again, had made NO volume changes. Only unplugged mic and sound from PC. And, this is the second time it happened between initial measurements and checking the results Spend a couple of hours reading the REW help files, but no obvious info. OK; next time I will repeat this process keeping the PC connected Graph shows results ...

Problems with REW sound level ... no clue OK, thanks to @Chris A I made some progress. Have a XP-2040 hooked up to JBL 2446H horns via a preamp and a Yamaha M-45 amp (120wpc). (Later I'll do the low freq side.) So, ran a series of measurements a couple of days ago and averaged them. 3 minor EQ filters which I entered into the Xilica. Then, ran a new test measurement ... for unknown reasons (I had not changed ANY settings), the REW measurements now were about 20dB's louder. And; now it required 7 filters ChrisA suggested that the SPL mismatch might be the problem. (Haha; also had the mic in the wrong position; at listening position vs center of speaker.) Therefore, ran more measurements today with the mic in the correct position. "Psycho'd" these and averaged them. Curves looked nice and when I EQ'd them (at flatness "2") I only got ONE SMALL filter from REW. Put the value into the Xilica Then, ran a measurement to see if my changes were successful. NO; first measurement showed something like "excess headroom" and I had to lower the volume. OK; did so and got the measurement - turned out to be about 25dB louder (even after turning it down). When I EQ'd it, it now showed SEVEN major filters Obviously the high SPL levels (120+dB) screwed up the results. NO CLUE why my SPL recording level is changing Did not even unplug my PC between initial and final measurements NO CLUE how to set SPL level ... tried it with the SPL meter, but it doesnot seem to correlate with my measurement SPL Appreciate your input. Thanks, Emile

Thanks ! OK; understand it now Initially thought a "trigger" was just a pulse function - therefore my question about "power always on." But, obviously the trigger is "always on/off." Power strip with slave/master won't work because I have a 2-prong amp out And thanks for the link to a trigger out wire. Should have something in my electronics boxes that I can chop up. Cheers, Emile

Langston; ingenious, awesome, thanks But, just to be sure as I have never used triggers before So, I could just take my switched amp 120V output and put it into the relay's input (note; it is "on" all the time, not really a trigger)? Or, maybe a bit "safer," use a trigger output from my Oppo BDP-83SE to control it? Many thanks, Emile

Yes; currently plugged into it. But because the Xilica on/off switch is in the "back," I have to crawl into the cabinet to get to it

OK; got some new equipment including a Xilica XP-2040. Since this is "modern" equipment it has a 3-prong grounded power cord. Problem is Xilica puts their on/off switch in the back which is very hard to get to in my semi build-in setup. So; was hoping to put this (with an adapter) into one of my amps which has a switched power outlet - but "vintage" so only 2-prong. YES, no problem or NO, do NOT do it? Appreciate your suggestions. Cheers, Emile

Haha; about $20 from Klipsch - but they WILL NOT SELL them to you. You can get them in Canada for about $60, but they will have to be trans-shipped to you. Good luck

Just got an Oppo BDP-83SE. SE stands for "Special Edition" with superior analog audio. Was well worth it - about $300-350 used. Yes, also plays SACD's, DVD's and Blu Rays which is more than you may want, but ... (And is far superior to my NAD player.)

OK; just had to share my story ... maybe someone will "learn" from this Got some new equipment - an Oppo BDP-83SE and "other" stuff. (Old Oppo's tray would not come out ... yes; tried replacing the belt ... haha, really broke it in the process.) Hooked up the Oppo "Special Edition" with superior (?) analog audio. Put in a CD and sound was excellent on my CF-3's and JBL 2446 horns. Was comparing it to my other Denon CD player. So; hooked up the Oppo to my TV via HDMI and tried a DVD. NO AUDIO from my system; only from the TV Tried changing settings such a HDMI-audio "off." NADA, NOTHING OK, when in doubt read the (76 page) manual. Some tips in there, but NO;NOTHING. Was ready to give up (for the day). Then I noticed my Denon was still "powered on." Next I looked at my preamp ... SOME IDIOT (yes, me) had forgotten to switch the input to the Oppo Don't tell anyone Cheers, Emile

Claude, good to hear that Was just going to replace the 980H, but found the "special edition" one for just a few dollars more - OK; few hundred Yes; only using it for audio

No clue why it won't play SACD's via RCA out. Used mine for a couple of years without any problem. Maybe something in the settings ... OK; my 980H died ... tray was stuck due to belt problem ... tried to fix it then really broke it Reason for response; just bought an Oppo BDP-83SE for $350 to replace it. The SE ("special edition") has superior analog outlets - supposedly. Enroute so not hooked up yet ... will let you know if it is any good/better

Hi @zeagan Very interesting. Tried a 510/691 combo with a set of Forte's ... made the Forte's pretty "anemic." So; sold the Forte's and the 510/691's - bought some CF-3's which sound much better. However, could not resist "playing" some more and got JBL 2446H's mounted on 18x11 JBL horns. First impressions are much better than the previous combo, but have not dialed it in yet. (And still running on a cheap Chinese class-D amp - Yamaha M-45 replacement is on the way to me.) If you are using an electronic crossover maybe we could exchange some info And haha; guess I'll have to find my mike and run some REW Keep us posted! Thanks, Emile

Hi avguytx, Welcome back to the "Epic club" Driving my CF-3's with a Kenwood Basic M2A (and a C2 preamp). Highly underrated amp (220wpc) which can sometimes be found for about $250. Good luck!

Haha; that's why I just got a Yamaha M-45. Love those LED's ... got the same on my Kenwood Basic M2A (highly under-rated power amp at 225wpc). Think the Yamaha M-45 will be more than sufficient to drive a pair of JBL 2446 compression drivers

Hi Doug. Just read you post ... have an extra R-115 (WITHOUT remote) which I can sell for pretty cheap; say $150 - just do not need it anymore Send me a PM if interested.

Hi @Dave1291 Haha, NO ... got out of the market a couple of weeks ago, waiting for the BIG correction Well, hooked up the Xilica - NOTHING Removed the Xilica - NOTHING OK; going to start on the wine early today and troubleshoot tomorrow CHEERS, Emile