vasubandu
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Posts posted by vasubandu
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3 minutes ago, cincymat said:
Here you go, step by step instructions:
I cannot thank you enough for that. As much as I looked, I never found it, but he used the format I am talking about. Different river configuration, but at least is is a start and it comes with direction. @cincymat you just made my day.
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@Ceptorman I have looked into that concept quite a bit. In one permutation, it leads to the “Was 3000”, made by Wyle Laboratories, which fits on a truck and has been called the "mother of all speakers." It can produce a sound of 165 dB.
http://www.psaudio.com/article/the-mother-of-all-speakers-moas/
The military plays with it. 185-200 dB is usually the standard for death. As far as I can tell, it just makes noise and would not work as a subwoofer. This actually was the entrance to my rabbit hole. Bose has done some interesting things, but not what I am after. Admit it, this ha you thinking that it would fit somewhere in your system.
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4 hours ago, Schu said:
These threads you continually start OP.
Well, I know, but you know the information that I get is invaluable to me. And it may not make sense to anyone else, but it makes perfect sense to me. If I am irritating people, I will stop.
But play along with me for a second. If, as a general rule bigger subwoofers are or can be better than smaller ones, then wouldn't we generally make them as large as possible? Then the truck backs up to deliver it and the WAF sets in. "I am not having that thing in my house." Now maybe smaller subs are just as good and it is all driver size, I don't know. But I do know that a 33 inch cube has no place in my house. A cylinder sub looks smaller than it is, which already helps. And I don't think that 30 inches or 6 feet tall really makes a difference. A 6 foot tower is not going to be perceived like a giant cube. So if it worked, it might really be significant. And the fact that people are shaking their heads sort of shows that no one ha tried it.
So all I can say is that I ask these questions in earnest. But seriously I do not want to annoy anyone or waste their time.
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4 hours ago, wvu80 said:
It's not an insult to suggest you learn to crawl before you walk
@wvu80 You have helped me so much that I would never consider anything you say to be an insult. It would be really stupid to seek your advice and then get mad when you gave it to me. And given that you know a hell of a lot more than I do about this, it would be self-defeating to disregard your thoughts.
I have struggled all my life with this "crawl before you walk thing." Just ask my wife. I don't want to crawl, I want to run. And I really don't even want to run, I want to fly. So try to bypass the crawling part with learning and thinking. That tends to work in the law because the law is all thinking and no doing.
In the end, lawyering is very simple. It is getting one person or twelve people to what you want them to and to think they thought of it themselves. It is appearing to be objective while really being an advocate for one side. It can be a lot of fun. I fave never dealt with the FISA court and rarely with the FBI, but if you want to discuss the process offline I would be happy to do so.
The thing is I could go buy a pair of Seatons or Rhymthiks or whatever and had a great sub. So my issue not so much getting a pair of good subwoofers as figuring out whether this idea has any legs. If someone else has tried and it does not work, then great, but if not, then it is terra nova, and that I cannot resist.
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26 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
Big Mistake to design and build your own sub-woofer from scratch when you don't know what you are doing
I would never do it without learning everything I needed to know beforehand. There is a lot of science and I would be applying it differently thank others. I can learn it easily enough. Many have said that subwoofers are easy to build.
In my law practice I take cases about new things all the time. In fact that is why I love it. So in one case I have to learn securities law and in another state constitutional law. I have had to learn about jet parts and concrete structural work. So subwoofers don't scare me.
And if I wanted to sing, I would sing my songs. The idea of buying a kit would never occur to me.
The idea here is that as big as they are, subwoofers are limited in size by practical considerations. The external dimensions of the svs pb16 contain 16,763 cubic inches. The interior dimensions of my concept have 37,698 cubic inches, which is the equivalent of a cube 33 inches on a side.
Just seems like a fun exercise.
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Check this out. laminated fiberboard, can get any size or thickness I want.
http://www.shapesunlimited.com/products/tubes
And then there are wood veneer tubes
https://lenderink.com/wood-tubes/
And now that I think about it a log would be perfect. Usually logs are hollowed out by cutting them in half lengthwise and then easily removing the center.
The the halves are joined to make the hollow log
This would be perfect with my love for exotic woods. The bark would be removed to an attractive wood layer. The outside could be made any thickness I wanted. I just contacted my favorite supplier in Portland.
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Why limit ourselves to cars. The Tesla weighs 2,877 pounds. For example, with the same weight allowance, we could send 3,513 cans of beer, which might be a better way to introduce us than a car that almost no one can afford. Or we could send a giant Bart Simpson statute.
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Bear with me here, as I have never build a speaker of any kind, and although I have been studying, I pretty much know nothing about subwoofers. I have picked up snippets, and when I take on a project, it does not have to be successful. I just don't want to try something that has been tried and failed or that violates some basic rule unless I want to test the rule.
The basic idea is a cylinder subwoofer that is to start with a round concrete form 20 inches in diameter and six feet long. This would be turned into a subwoofer with 18 inch drivers. Specifically, it would have 6 or 8 drivers, space permitting. The drivers would face out from the center in a push-pull system so that 3 or 4 drivers would push and pull in a given direction at the same time. The question would be whether the incremental increase in volume from adding a second driver would continue to increase as more were added or not, and if it did increase, whether that would be arithmetic or logarithmic. Really good 18 inch drivers seem to cost $600 or more, probably a lot more, so this would not be a cheap project. But so what.
Am I just dead wrong and has someone tried this? I spent hours looking and cannot find anything close.
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I have taken the kids bowling 4 or 5 times over the past couple of years. The older one who is now 15 usually started in a snit claiming that he did not want to bowl. He just randomly threw the ball down the lane. BY the time of the third and fourth games, he was into it and not bad by my standards, probably 120-140. The younger one claimed that the best bowler in the world does not use finger holes, so he would not either. No idea how he even threw the bowling ball but he got good velocity, and I think it really was mostly gutters or strikes. More gutters than strikes.
I had not bowled since i was a kid, and it took me a while to figure it out. What I figured out is probably illegal, but I ended up with one knee on the floor at the end of my toss and released the ball about 3 inches off the floor. I used the heaviest ball I could find and just focused on standing at the left edge (I am left handed) and trying to hit the front pin on the right side. After a few times, I was scoring 150-165.
I actually contacted the owner of the bowling alley because a client wanted to tear it down and build some apartments. Once he realized what I wanted, he became very angry and yelled that he would never seller to developers and that his kids were going to run the business. The location would have been killer for apartments.
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I meant one pair, but I would take one. Probably still sitting around lonely in a corner of your garage with an oil can on it. You should get rid of it.
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@Arrow#422 Then what is a 600 series? This is the most interested I have been in bowling in my entire life.
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10 minutes ago, Arrow#422 said:
My 13yo bowled "her" first 600 series this past weekend beating dad to that accomplishment by nearly 2 years.
I that 2 consecutive 300 games? If so, pretty impressive, but I had a 1200 series. Of course is over 2 days and ten games, but I am pretty sure that it still counts.
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22 minutes ago, jjptkd said:
Hey I offered to break out the skil-saw, I would have made quick work of it!
I d have to admit that is true. But the gleam in his told me he would not stop with the biploe change.
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You know, a bowling ball might make a decent housing for a smaller speaker.
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48 minutes ago, ZEUS121996 said:
I forgot you were selling a pair of CF-3s
Wait, he is? I want one of those.
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1 hour ago, DizRotus said:
La Scala flat-packs. Who knew?
Yeah if you buy the upgraded kits they have include the drivers, which expand as you unfold it. The crossovers have special stretchable wires that expand into place. I saw a YouTube guy who was really strong. He tossed them in the air while pulling them apart and they landed perfectly in place as complete speakers. But I personally am holing out the for the next version. They are going to be wireless.
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I have not looked at the RF-3 enough to know whether $450 as modified makes sense or not.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/ele/6488165467.html
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22 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:
I went last night and am the worst bowler on our team as I'm consistently inconsistent.
Throw harder. Woodie Held, who played baseball for Cleveland and a few other teams from 1954 to 1969, once put it this way: "Don't forget to swing hard, just in case you hit the ball."
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2 hours ago, dtel said:
It's part of why I don't customize or design speakers
Me neither. I have @jjptkd do it. Except I asked him to turn the two RC-7 I use for surrounds into dipoles, and he said he could not do it, so I don't know if he is really any good at it.
2 hours ago, dtel said:I love this idea, I hope it becomes standard on all receivers.
It will be. A lot of things are going that way like WiFi routers. It probably costs 1% as much to build an Android/iOS app compared to a Windows App, and they can be changed and updated far more easily. We have great apps made by high school kids because it is so easy and flexible. More exist than people know about. Integra has two.
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Gotcha and thanks. So tweeter right at us. I was going to say a little lower than me because of the kids and then I remembered that they are taller than I am. I really hate that.
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2 hours ago, wvu80 said:
I don't know the Integra all that well,
These are the specs. Total power consumption is 650 Watts compared to 680 Watts for the 6011. If I could figure it out, I think it would exceed my desires. I am guessing it was a 2015 model.
Power Output
- (8 ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz, FTC) 130W/Channel (8 ohms)
Dynamic Power
- 300W/Channel (3 ohms)
- 250W/Channel (4 ohms)
- 150W/Channel (8 ohms)
THD (Total Harmonic Distortion + Noise)
- 0.08% (20Hz - 20kHz, Half Power)
Input Sensitivity and Impedance
- 200mV/47k ohms (LINE)
- 3.5mV/47k ohms (Phono MM)
Rated RCA Output Level and Impedance
- 1Vrms/470 ohms (Subwoofer Pre Out)
- 200mV/2.3k ohms (Zone Line Out)
- 2.0V/2.3k ohms (Zone Pre Out)
Phono Overload
- 70mV (MM 1kHz, 0.5%)
Frequency Response
- 5Hz - 100kHz/+1dB - 3dB (Direct Mode)
Tone Control
- ±10dB, 90Hz (Bass)
- ±10dB, 7.5kHz (Treble)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
- 106dB (Line, IHF-A)
- 80dB (Phono)
Video Section
Input Sensitivity/Output Level and Impedance
- 1.0Vp-p/75 ohms (Component Y)
- 0.7Vp-p/75 ohms (Component Pb/Cb, Pr/Cr)
- 1.0Vp-p/75 ohms (Composite)
Tuner Section
Tuning Frequency Range
- FM 87.5MHz - 107.9MHz
- AM 530kHz - 1,710kHz
FM / AM Preset Memory
- 40 Stations
General
Power Supply
- AC 120V, 60Hz
Power Consumption
- 650W
Stand-By Power Consumption
- 0.1W
Dimensions (W x H x D)
- 17 1/8" x 7 15/16" x 15 15/16"
Weight
- 30.9 lbs. (14.0 kg)
Additional Specs
Amplifier
- # of channels: 7.2
- Power: (8 ohms, 20 - 20kHz 0.08%) / CH 130
- Amplifier frequency response: 5Hz - 100kHz
- High Instantaneous Current Capability: 35 Amps, 1kHz
- THX Certified
- Independent power supply: 2
Processing
- Dolby Atmos and Dolby Surround
- Dolby TrueHD
- DTS:X and DTS Neural:X
- DTS-HD Master Audio
- THX Processing Modes & Loudness Plus
- AccuEQ Automatic Room Calibration Advanced w/AccuReflex
- GAME Surround Modes (Rock, Action, Sports, Role Play)
- Advanced Music Optimizer to enhance compressed audio files
- Premium Quality Digital-to-Analog Conversion 384k/32-bit AKM 4458
- 32-bit DSP chip for advanced processing
- Ultra-low-jitter circuitry to improve audio
- Adjustable crossover by channel pair 40/45/50/55/60/70/80/90/100/110/120/130/150/180/200Hz
- Accurate speaker distance setting: 0.1 foot
- A/V sync delay (by source): -100 to +500ms
Connectivity
- HDMI inputs/output(s): 8 / 2
- HDMI 4K/60Hz-capable HDMI Terminals with HDR Support
- HDCP 2.2 copy-protection compatibility
- HDMI support for High Dynamic Range (HDR)
- HDMI support for BT.2020
- 4K/60Hz 4:4:4 Colorspace support
- HDMI support for 3D, Audio Return Channel and CEC
- HDMI support for Deep Color, x.v.Color, LipSync
- HDMI support for DVD-Audio, SACD, Multichannel PCM
- Front panel HDMI input
- HDBaseT output
- Analog to HDMI upconversion from 480i / 576i
- 4K upscaling from 1080p via HDMI
- Component video inputs: 2
- Composite video inputs: 2
- Digital audio inputs (COAX / OPT): 1 / 2
- Analog audio inputs: 8
- Phono input
- Front panel A/V input
- Analog pre-outs: 7.2
Network/USB
- FireConnect wireless multi-room audio streaming technlogy
- Supports Integra remote apps for iPod/iPhone and Android-powered devices
- Apple AirPlay
- iPod/iPhone/iPad
- Google Cast for audio
- Home network music streaming
- TIDAL high-fidelity music streaming
- Pandora
- Spotify
- Spotify Connect
- TuneIn Radio
- MQA (Master Quality Authenticated) support
- DSD support (2.8, 5.6, 11.2MHz)
- Dolby TrueHD support
- Apple lossless (ALAC) support
- WAV support
- AIFF support
- Apple lossless support
- DSDIFF support
- FLAC support
- LPCM support
- MP3 support
- USB input for streaming audio
- Wireless network: Wi-Fi-certified
- Bluetooth: Built-in
- Firmware updates via network and USB
Integration Access
- Bi-directional RS-232 control port
- Bi-directional Ethernet control port
- Rear panel IR input/output: 2/1
- RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI)
- 12V trigger (with adjustable delay) x3: Assignable
Miscellaneous
- GUI for setup menu
- Quick setup menu
- Input name edit: Fully customizable
- HDMI Standby "Through" Mode: Assignable
- Dealer settings memory store & recall function
- Screensaver function
- Hybrid standby to reduce power consumption
- Smart Grid ready
- Anti-resonant aluminum front panel
- Gold-plated RCA terminals
- Oversized detachable AC cord
- Rack mount kit available IRK-155-3C or IRK-155-3D
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So @CECAA850 if I just remove the back legs would that do the trick?
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@wvu80 I was about to pull the trigger on the 6011 when the Integra popped up. It does everything that I needed the 6011 to do, so I never got the 6011. And for $200 how could I resist. Plus the guy threw in his entire audio setup. I sold the B&W subwoofer for $150 and have the B&W DM601 on eBay with bidding at $112.50 and 43 watchers with 19 hours to go. Plus I still have the Linn Tukan speakers to sell once I get the cloths for them and the 4 heavy duty anodized stands. So all in all it just does not seem to make sense to jump fo rthe Marantz unless the instructions are easier to understand.
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1 minute ago, richieb said:
Looking at your photo you seem fairly young but that landlords would not rent to you cause you were living in sin?
Actually this was all over the phone. And the fact that back then I was a bit of a smartass did not help. We like this.
Hello.
Hi, I am calling about the apartment that you have for rent. Is it still available.
Yes.
We are interested in it, could we come see it.
How many of you are there?
Two.
Is the other a girl?
Yes.
Are you married?
No.
I don't rent to unmarried people.
Well, can we come l see it anyway? If we like it we wll get married.
Click.
The odd thing is that I was serious. We were committed to each other, but did not care if the state or church blessed our relationship. In fact, we finally got married over car insurance. Our car was in her name, and then we bought one together. When I called to get insurance, I choked when the guy told me the cost, and I asked him why so much. He said that single men 21-24 are the highest risk group, so I asked him how much we would save if we were married. He thought that was an inappropriate question, and it was hard to get the answer out of him, but it was $1,200. So I said "call you back." I asked my wife if she would marry me, and she said yes, which was sort of a running joke. She wanted to get married, and I really didn't because marriage has its origins in treating women as chattel (the father really did give the bride away). So I used to ask her if she would marry me, and when she said yes, I said, "Just checking." But this time I said nothing, and I went and applied for the marriage license. Three days later, I just dropped by the courthouse with her, and we got married. Big surprise for her. So if would get married to save money on car insurance, I would get married for a great apartment. Total cost of our wedding was $40 including the tip to the judge. Some people say this sounds awful, but we just had our 30th anniversary.
Rock chalk Jayhawk.
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Seriously thinking about this and wondering why I am wrong
in Subwoofers
Posted
I would not be sure of that. Attorneys always wait until the last minute. The might call you and ask if you can testify tomorrow. What I was offering was some insight into how attorneys think. Given your background you probably don't need it, but if have any questions, they are better answered than not.