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Unfortunately not Randy. My receiver was already out of warranty by then. But it didn't cost that much to fix... I think they only charged me 1 hour of labour.

I tried the reset combination that is available online and to the consumer, but that didn't cut it. Apparently there's an even deeper reset that only Yamaha and their authorized service partners can do, which is what they did and worked on my receiver. Nothing else needed to be repaired or replaced.

Well, not the normal software/firmware update that we have access to as consumers, as my device was running the latest firmware version at the time. And the Yamaha dealer specifically referred to it as a reset, not a software update... but that's all I know about the reset they performed.

A similar thing happened to my Yamaha a few years ago. None of the resets listed in the manual helped, but taking it back to my dealer, they were able to perform a special (deeper) reset that normally only Yamaha themselves can do... no parts damaged or needed replacing, just a simple reset that isn't available to consumers directly. So don't write it off until you've had Denon take a look at it (or your dealer).

We're living in crazy times with this pandemic and huge companies all over the world have been brought to their knees and are running on skeleton staff. So a big company like this could easily shut down it's phones at a time like this... be that as it may, in my experience, Klipsch always take at least a week to respond to support queries, so I'd give it another week or so to account for the pandemic...

I did consider that, but I know myself, I'll never get around to reading a PDF, as I have so many e-Books on my computer that I've never opened... 🙂

I look forward to hearing what you think about the book and Blue-Ray once you've been through it all. I almost ordered the book and disk, but it's a bit expensive to get it to South Africa and our terrible exchange rate just kills it entirely for me... 😞

I do believe they have... it's apparently a new amp module entirely from what I've been told. I've only had my SPL-150 for a little over a month, but I haven't heard anyone else complaining about the new SPL's.

Wow, that's hectic! I always wondered why the pros in the USA recommend running your amps off dedicated 20 amp circuits etc, until I did the simple math and realized that 15 x 120V only gives you 1800W, which heavy amps in a separates system and subwoofers can easily exceed. If I one day upgrade to a pre-pro and separates, I would run a dedicated 20A circuit for good measure, but until then, my current setup is perfectly well served by the 3600W available on the existing circuit and breaker... 🙂

Your math is spot on... it's me that wasn't paying attention. The 16A sockets mentioned in the spec just refers to the type of sockets, and doesn't mean it can handle 6 x 16 amps of current... 🙂 But 3680W max load is more than enough for my setup. My Yamaha A2070 receiver's max power consumption is 1210W and then the only other high powered device on this adapter is a 12 inch Klipsch sub. My new SPL-150 is on a separate strip adapter. I think we get a lot more out of 15 amps here in South Africa due to our higher voltage supply, so amperage isn't as limiting for us as it is for you guys. At the end of the day, my entire theater and other entertainment gadgets run off one 15A breaker and I've never tripped it... touch wood... 🙂

...15A per socket perhaps (actually 16A per socket), not only 15A for the entire adapter. Here are the exact specs: Voltage: 250V Current: 6 x 16A / 6 x 5A Max Connected load: 3680W Max total combined surge current: 18 000A - 24 000A Max total combined surge energy: 500J - 700J Protection component response time: <25nS Spec Sheet: http://e-systems.co.za/System/FabSheets/1FBWP5.pdf I'm pretty sure this strip adapter can handle more than enough load from my home theater, although I don't have everything connected to just one of these. I have one of my subwoofers on a different strip and actually have a total of 3 of these strip adapters for the home theater stuff, but all are on the same circuit from the distribution board. So the more important question I would think is, can the breaker and plug circuit handle the load, and since I've never tripped the breaker, no matter how hard I drive the system, I think the answer is yes, it can, or am I missing something here?

I use a local South African manufacturer for all my surge plugs, but they are quite reputable. This is the exact surge multiplug strip that I have my home theater gear plugged into, including my subs: Multiplug High Surge Protected 12 Way: https://www.ellies.co.za/product/multiplug-high-surge-protected-12-way/ Update: I should also mention that we have 240V here, so power/current etc has never been an issue for me with any of my systems.

I haven't noticed any smells and the big one is covering a window that gets direct sunlight for the entire afternoon, so no, it shouldn't smell when it gets hot.

Yes, they call it MLV here (Mass Loaded Vinyl), and it is specifically used for soundproofing applications. You can read more about it here: https://blog.soundaway.com/2018/02/everything-you-need-to-know-about-mass.html I stapled the MLV to the back of the frame as a backing, so yes, on the window side, with the acoustic dampening material (Rockwool) in between, and then the front covered with acoustically transparent material. I hope this helps.

Ah, I see... thanks for clarifying this. It might be different for us here in South Africa where we have 220v power, which would explain why I haven't seen any mention of this before... 🙂 Update: Out of interest, I checked the documentation that came with my SPL-150, and they do indeed mention adapters, however not in a way that would impact the performance of the subwoofer: "The use of AC plug adapters is cautioned because it can allow the product to be plugged into voltages in which the product was not designed to operate." I think they're referring to adapters like USA to UK or South Africa for example, where the mains voltages can be different from country to country. So this wouldn't apply to the strip adapter that you're using within your own country in my opinion, as you know the voltage of your mains and it should match the voltage setting at the back of the sub.

Why do you say that if you don't mind me asking? I have my entire home theater plugged into surge protected power strips, including my subs.

Ah, thank you. And yeah, your panels look great. I would still recommend you try a heavy curtain (drape) instead of the blinds in front of your sliding door, as the blinds probably won't be doing much to absorb reflections on the left side of the room. An added bonus of dark heavy drapes would be that they'd cut out more light which will improve your daytime movie watching etc. Lastly, your crossover settings sound quite low on most of your channels if I understood correctly. In my experience, auto room correction systems don't always get this right, and you might want to move these settings closer to 80hz and see if that doesn't sound better. But you definitely want them at least 10 - 20 hz higher than the low end rating of your speakers as @wvu80 pointed out above...

For what it's worth, this is what I did in my apartment, and my upstairs neighbor says they no longer hear or feel anything when we're watching movies, although maybe they were just being polite at the time, but I've had no complaints and it seems like it did help reduce noise and vibration transmission, which was a nice bonus: A more detailed description of the build including the integrated acoustic absorption panels and decoupling seals etc can be found here:

I would have suggested the opposite to what @RANDYH is saying regarding your Dolby Atmos speakers. The best placement for Dolby Atmos speakers is overhead in the ceiling, although it wouldn't be wrong mount them on the walls like you have if you can't put them on the ceiling. But if you're complaining about lack of sound separation and you want Dolby Atmos to be more effective, then you should be moving your Dolby Atmos height speakers higher and further away from your bed layer channels, not closer or lower in my opinion. I have my Dolby Atmos speakers in the ceiling and I couldn't be happier with the performance of Dolby Atmos, so I would suggest once you've tried @RANDYH's suggestions (don't move them permanently), then try following Dolby Atmos' guidelines as closely as is convenient in your room, and see which you like more. You'll find everything you need to know here: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide.html For what it's worth, I would move the surround speakers further back as per dolby guidelines, but if you prefer them where you have them, that's fine too. You have very good equipment in your system, so if you follow the Dolby Atmos guidelines as closely as reasonably possible and the room treatment suggestions others have made above, you should have a brilliant and very immersive, detailed sound. I hope this helps.

This is the same cable I use, just without the y-link, so it shouldn't be the cable. I have heard that some systems have a grounding issue when it comes to the subs, although I haven't personally experienced this issue. For this, they make subwoofer cables that include a ground connection like the AudioQuest Blacklab Subwoofer Cable: https://www.audioquest.com/cables/analog-interconnects/subwoofer-cables/black-lab. You'll find a screw on the back of your plate amp on your subwoofer that you can attach the ground terminal to. I don't want to encourage you to buy a new cable, as I haven't got any personal experience with this issue, but just thought I'd mention it in case it helps you narrow down the issue. Perhaps someone else on the forum will be able to suggest alternative ways for you to troubleshoot a grounding issue.

Thanks guys! 🙂

Yikes, are you sure you want to go that far? I personally think 7.2.4 is more than enough, and I'd rather use the extra budget for RF7's... 😉 I haven't heard the CDT's, but I do have the Pro's in my ceiling for my Atmos speakers, and they are awesome. The Tweeter and Woofer Angle's are not adjustable on the Pro's, but this isn't an issue for Atmos speakers in my opinion, at least not in my room. There's probably a good reason Klipsch decided to drop the adjustable tweeter feature with the newer PRO's. And yes, you probably will want to keep the grills on if you go with the PRO's... 🙂

I'm using the Pro-180RPC for my in-ceiling Atmos speakers, and can confirm that the cutout dimension is 24.9cm, which would be your 9.8 inches. I don't have the LCR version, so can't confirm the cutout dimension of those, but i think it's safe to assume that the larger cutout is correct, as the angling bracket looks like it takes up more space. I'm confident you can trust the Klipsch dimensions given on their product pages.

I have plenty of regular RCA cables that I no longer use, but they're all the regular 1m or 1.5m lengths, which probably won't be long enough to move the sub around to find the optimum position and integrate it with my other sub. But I'll go through my cables just in case... 🙂

Roger that... 🙂