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No, I think setting and hoping for the best is not going to get you your desired results. I don't run multiple subs yet myself, but I think most people use the miniDSP box: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box for managing more than 2 subs. This will allow you to correct each sub independently. PS: Is Klipsch's defense, whether they gave you a sub out or you use splitters, it results in the same thing... unless I'm missing something...

Hi @alcorey, the biggest problem with fitting the RP-600C speaker within a closed cavity is the rear port. It generally needs some clearance to the wall behind it function properly. And there might also be some acoustic interference by what I would imagine would become an extended or infinite front baffle. I of course haven't tried this, so I can't say how bad this might be, however, I would think you'd be better off using one of Klipsch's in-wall speakers from this purpose, as they're design to be enclosed in a wall and have an infinite baffle etc.

This is quite surprising to hear... so that would mean the RSW-15 must be leagues ahead of the R-115SW and the SPL-150's... because these two subs are nowhere near the class of an SVS 16-Ultra. Two R-115SW's weren't even able to significantly outperform a single PB-3000: SVS PB3000 vs Dual Klipsch R-115SW Subwoofer Showdown And the 3000 is definitely no match for the 16 Ultra, as demonstrated in other videos... 🙂 PS: I do know that dual subs have advantages over a single sub, but that wasn't really the point of the video... an interesting test/comparison by @Youthman non-the-less.

That makes total sense... thanks for clearing that up. It is sad though that they didn't deliver on their promise of a higher end sub. Maybe it will still come one day... 🙂 These current 15 inchers do seem a bit light weight for the RF7 package.

Generally surround, which is on either side or up to 10 degrees behind the listening position but on the side walls is the first step. And anything from ear level to a foot or so above ear level would be the acceptable height range. I prefer mine above ear level rather than at ear level, but that's up to you and you should experiment and see what works best for you and your room. Then when you go from 5.1 to 7.1, you will add the rear speakers (Surround Back) at the same height as your surrounds, but this time on the rear wall. I recommend you familiarize yourself with Dolby's speaker layout recommendations and then adjust to your personal preference from there. It's not cast in stone that your speakers must be like this... my lower surround channels for example are higher than they recommend and my rear speakers are not pointed towards the listening position, and my system still sounds great. 7.1.4 Overhead Speaker Placement You'll find more options here: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/speaker-setup-guides/index.html Your AVR owners manual should also provide recommendations which will hopefully be similar to Dolby's recommendations. I have the PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING speakers, which Klipsch support recommended to me for pairing with the RP and RF7 series, but I've been told that these are limited to installers in the USA, so most people go with the CDT-5800-C II. Use the Dolby Atmos speaker guides page to determine placement, but adjust to what will work in your actual ceiling layout. No, Atmos doesn't need a lot of power, and can most certainly be powered directly from your Marantz AVR. Using your NAD to power the front stage and the AVR for the rest should work fine, but just double check with your owners manual as I don't have this receiver or amp... Atmos, DTS-X and Auro 3D all have upmixers that will mix anything from 2 channel stereo up to 7.1 channel mixes to Atmos, DTS-X and Auro 3D, so yes, Atmos can be used with all your sound tracks, and actually works great for this.

I agree with Willland... Your room is similar in width to mine, and about 1 meter longer than mine. Mine is 4.7 x 4.8m (unfortunately rather square, but I make do). I've gone with a 7.1.2 setup, but that's mostly due to budgetary and practical constraints. I am quite sure my room could handle the extra two Atmos channels for a 7.2.4 configuration, but that would have required me to replace my receiver, purchase an additional power amp for the extra two channels and the in-ceiling speakers I went with don't come cheap either. I'm very happy with my two Atmos channels... for now... 🙂 You are right that most of your collection currently would be 5.1 or 7.1 sound tracks, but I'm seeing more and more Blue-Rays coming out with Atmos now, and if you're buying 4K Blue-Ray's then Atmos is even more common. But also keep in mind that Dolby and DTS's upmixers do a great job of mixing 5.1 and 7.1 into your height channels in my opinion, so the investment in height channels is well worth it, even for non Atmos mixes. I were you, I'd decide now what you want to end up with (7.2.2 or 7.2.4), then start adding channels as and when your budget allows. And yes, I'd get the rear surrounds if I were you... your room size is not a limiting factor in this regard and I'm happy with my 7 lower channels. I hope this helps.

I am also in need of a second subwoofer. Do you mind if I ask why the SPL 150 is off the table for you? I know it's an under performer compared to the SVS's, and I would love to get a SVS 16-Ultra or even a PB 3000 or 4000, but sadly, I just can't afford them - at least not where I live. So I was planning on settling for adding the SPL 150 to my existing R-12SW.

Ah, thanks for clearing that up for me.

This might be a dumb question, but where does one find this 450C, because I only see a RP-504C, which is what I would have thought would be the best center to go with the RP series: https://www.klipsch.com/center-speaker ? Thanks. B

That's great news bro! Enjoy your subs then...

I might be wrong, but I think I've only heard people complaining about the amps in the 15 inch version (R-115SW). I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong about this, but as far as my 12 inch goes, I've had my R-12SW (a step down from yours) since May 2016 and I use mine every day for 6 - 18 hours a day (music, movies and series's) and I use the auto power on/off feature, so power has been constantly connected to the sub since I got it. So unless others report differently, I would keep the sub if if you like it, and use it to its fullest potential... and if you're one of the unlucky ones and it lets go, then contact Klispch support or your dealer to see how they can help you. I hope this helps. Brendon

I don't know the Pro Control system, but my Logitech Harmony Elite (Hub, Remote and docking station) is probably one of the best investments I've made in recent years. It took over the duties of all the remotes I was relying on (8 of them). It's now the only remote I need to drive everything from my home theater to my smart lighting. All other remotes have been packed away for over a year now. The Pro Control looks quite a bit more expensive, but not sure how it compares otherwise. The Elite is currently selling for $ 249.99 (normally $ 349.99): https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/harmony-elite I haven't invested in a full blown power conditioner, but I did purchase an IsoTek power distribution strip, and good quality shielded power cables (for what it's worth): EVO3 POLARIS: https://www.isoteksystems.com/product/discovery/evo3-polaris/ The above solution is good enough for me, as it will filter out Common Mode and Differential Mode mains noise, reduce RFI, and adds a bit of surge protection. Anything more than this is low priority and probably only makes sense on very high end gear in my opinion - unless you have the money to shell out luxuries... 🙂

Ah, good question... I built a frame on the cement ceiling slab using galvanized angles (50mm x 25mm x 3.6m) which are just 0.8mm thick and so very light. This is what they look like: https://dbnonline.ubssa.co.za/marley-galv-angle-50x25-3-6m-680894.html. The 25mm side gets fastened to the ceiling and the 50mm side hangs down at a right angle. The sides of the ceiling cloud will be screwed to these 50mm sides. I used 6mm x 50mm Express Nail Anchors (lots of them) to attach the Angles to the cement slab. These work well because all you have to do is drill through the angle and into the cement slab, and then hit them in with a hammer. This is a huge time saver when you need to do one every 30cm or so... I went overkill on this as the last thing I want is for the entire thing to come down on someone. But this thing is strong enough for me to hang on, so no risk of that... 🙂 Here's an image of the Express nails: Now that I have the galvanized frame on my ceiling, the ceiling cloud just slides over this frame, and then I used brass screws to screw through the sides of the cloud and into the angled frame. The galvanized angles are soft enough that you can just screw straight into them without having to drill holes first. I added a screw every 15mm or so, just to make sure that it will never come down on someone's head. Then I used wood filler to cover the counter sunk screw heads and painted over everything. Done! I hope this answers your question, but if anything is unclear, let me know and I'll gladly assist further. Brendon

I suppose there is such a thing as too much for a given space, but in my opinion (and others might disagree) I think most rooms can safely handle anything up to a full Dolby Atmos setup (7.2.4). You are always in control of the volume you play at. I chose to go with 7.1.2 mainly for budget reasons and the limitations of my receiver, but I'm confident adding the additional 2 in-ceiling speakers for a 7.1.4 setup would make things even better, but I'm happy with what I have now. My next investment will be a second subwoofer for a 7.2.2 setup. RP500SA: If you are planning on using these for Dolby Atmos, are you not able to do in-ceiling speakers? My first choice would be in-ceiling for Atmos. I have the PRO-180RPC which are awesome, but I believe these may only be available to custom installers in the USA, so the CDT-5800-C II would be what most are going with. For subs, I would look at the SVS subs from the PB 3000 and up, depending on your budget and if you can afford them. Otherwise the Klipsch SPL-150 or the R-115SW is a more affordable alternative. You can start with one, but ideally you'd eventually want to have 2 so that you can get a more even bass response around the room. I power my entire system from my Yamaha A2070 receiver, and I have more power than I would ever need in this room (4.8m x 4.7m x 3.2m). Would it sound better with a separate power amp driving the front stage... maybe, but I certainly don't need it and there are more important things I want to invest in such as another sub. So if I were you, I would start off just with the AVR for now. Rather invest in a second sub or good in-ceiling speakers... and then if you find you need more power or dynamics, you can upgrade to separates later. I honestly don't think you need to worry about this. You're choosing an excellent AVR with Excellent speakers... and as long as you set them up correctly, they will deliver tons of Chrystal clear sound that will leave a smile on your face every time you listen to them. My final and overall recommendation: get the AVR that will allow you to eventually add the number of channels you want to end up with, and then start building up to that slowly as your budget allows. You can always stop adding to the system if you think you have enough. But you won't need more than 7.2.4 in my opinion, and even 5.1.2 will give you plenty of joy. I hope this helps. PS: For what it's worth, I have two very busy cats, and while I have chosen to leave my grills on (just to be safe) neither of them have touched the grills (4 years now for the one cat and 2 years for the other cat). They do jump up on the speakers from the sides, but for some reason they always avoid the grills, even when climbing down. But every cat is different as seen by some of the other responses above. Keep the grills on to start with and see how your cats behave with the speakers.

@Jwebb27 Sounds like you're well on your way to an EPIC home theater setup. The only area I'd recommend giving some more thought to is the AVR. The Marantz SR5013 7.2 is capable of powering a Dolby Atmos system up to 5.1.2 from what I can tell, which would certainly satisfy the requirements you laid out in your original post. However, if it were me, I'd take a look at how much more it would cost to get a 9.2 channel Marantz so that you can later expand to 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 Atmos/DTS-X, or even better, one that has 11 channels of processing and 9 powered channels so you can expand to 7.2.4 if you add an additional 2 channel power Amp, without having to replace your receiver. To be clear though, I'm not suggesting you buy more channels than you will actually ever use, but just try and establish where your upper limits will eventually be so that you don't end up having to spend more money replacing a relatively new AVR later. In my case, I got a good deal on the Yamaha RX-A2070 which is perfect for my 7.2.2 Atmos system, and more than enough for my size room (4.8m x 4.7m x 3.2m), however if I ever wanted to upgrade to a full 7.2.4 Atmos system, I'd have to replace my receiver with the A3070 or A3080 to get those additional 2 channels of processing. I am very happy with my system as it currently stands, and don't think I need the extra two channels in this room, but you know how it is with these things... we always like to have the option of improving things whenever finances allow, and I can't help wondering what it might be like with 4 overhead Atmos speakers... 🙂 So all I'm saying is just think about this now and make sure that you are getting the receiver that will keep you happy for at least the next few years. Atmos and DTS-X have been an incredibly rewarding investment for me, and are well worth striving towards in my opinion. BTW: Excellent choice in speakers! They reviewed very well on Audioholics recently: https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/klipsch-rp-8000f Enjoy building your new theater... Brendon

Very nicely done! You've clearly put a lot of thought, work and money into your home theater, and I think it looks great. I wish you many hours of enjoyment with your new gear. PS: How does it all sound?

Yeah, you can't go wrong with the RF7's... I think you chose well. The additional 5W probably isn't going to make a huge difference, and I'm not sure what the price difference is, but if your budget allows, I'd go with the 830 as well. In addition to the additional power, it may come with a few other useful features, although glancing at the specs briefly I couldn't spot the differences, but hopefully some of the other forum members that are more familiar with the specs of these receivers can advise you on this. Here I assume you're wanting to use the old 600 to take the 830 from a 9.2 setup to an 11.2 setup? I'll have to leave this to one of the more experienced forum veterans that have hands on experience with these receivers. In my mind the only thing you'd need to figure out is whether you have a suitable input into the sr600 for your additional 2 channels. This is unfortunately over my head though, as I haven't tried to use a receiver as a power amp, so I don't know if this is doable.

Sorry for any confusion, I'm actually not familiar with the Onkyo receivers, I just saw the video I shared above yesterday, and thought this would be something for you to consider. If the Onkyo receivers can do the same thing, and are cheaper, then by all means, choose one of those instead. I do know the Onkyo receivers are generally well priced for what you get. Update: Had a look at the two Onkyo models you mentioned, and they are indeed 9.2 channel, expandable to 11.2 with an external amp.

@Punchysaurus, sounds like you've got an awesome speaker setup for your lower channels now. Well done! As for the receiver, if you really do want a receiver that will allow for future expansion to Dolby Atmos, then I think you should really consider the new Denon AVR-X3600H. I personally only have experience with the Yamaha receivers, but I watched this Audioholics video yesterday, and the price and potential for expansion down the line really does makes sense to me, even though you'd be spending a bit more up front now: New Denon 11CH Atmos/DTS:X AV Preamp for $1,100?!? This way you not only have the option of adding Dolby Atmos, but you could even add additional amps later if you feel the need to... If it were me, I'd rather spend a bit more now and get a receiver that I can grow into, instead of replacing it again in a year or two when you want to add Dolby Atmos channels. And as for features, the only tech you won't be getting as far as I can tell, is Auro 3D, which wouldn't really bother me, as I've only got one Blue-Ray with Auro 3D in my collection so far... Just my 2 cents... 😉

In addition to the above, I just thought of something else that might help... if the amp you get has an ARC or eARC HDMI connection, and your TV also has one, then switching the amp on shouldn't be an issue at all. They will effectively be synced together, and switching the one on and off, should switch the other on and off.

I might not be in a position to answer your question directly, especially if by "amp" you are planning on buying just an amp and not a receiver (AVR). I haven't used power amps since my original and over the top powerful home theater from about 15 years ago, so i can't advise you on the functionality of just an amp with a TV in this day and age. However, if you are considering purchasing an AVR (receiver), then this is easily solved in a number of ways. However, when going with an AVR setup, I would recommend rather making the receiver the central control point. Most decent receivers from the well known brands (Yamaha, Denon, Marantz etc) should have no trouble controlling the basic functions of your TV. And if you connect your TV to your receiver via an ARC or eARC enabled HDMI connection, your TV and receiver will turn on and off together with one action, and volume will be control via your receiver remote. I also think you'll get a better experience overall making your receiver the central control point rather than your TV. Now if you really want to control all your devices from just one remote and pack all your other remotes away permanently, one of the best investments I've made in my home theater to date is investing in the not-so-cheap Logitech Harmony Elite system. This one universal remote has literally replaced 7 remotes I was previously relying on to control everything that is connected to my home theater system. After setting the remote up to control everything, I haven't needed to take out any of the original remotes again. It handles everything from complex setups on my Yamaha A2070 receiver, Smart TV, TV Apps, Blue-Ray player, Sat TV Box, Amazon Fire Stick, Smart Lights etc... and all the actions can be triggered by my Google Home Assistant (or Alexa), so your system can be voice activated as well. Best investment ever for me! 🙂 ...but if your goal is just a small amp and TV, then I'm sure someone on the forum will advise you on this soon... 🙂

Wow, that's very interesting. Thank you for the clarification. I actually purchased them from my local dealer (physical store/show room) in South Africa - which is where I buy all my Klipsch and Yamaha gear. I know they do high-end installations, so that is maybe how they got them. But also strange that Klipsch support would recommend a speaker that I should actually not have access to... unless that only applies in the US... 🙂 I must say, I'm very happy with these speakers, and I definitely don't feel like I need to angle the woofer and tweeter towards me. Since these appear to be a new model, I thought perhaps Klipsch had decided this was no longer a necessary feature, especially for effects speakers. Either way, they work great, and they pack a punch for what they are...

@MetropolisLakeOutfitters, you're probably the right guy to ask about this... the guys at Klipsch support recommended their PRO-180RPC when I asked them which in-ceiling speakers I should get for my Dolby Atmos upgrade that will work well with their Reference Premiere and RF7 ranges, which is what I ended up getting. So I've been wondering for a while now what the difference is between the PRO-180RPC and the CDT-5800-C-II. Are you able to shed some light on this, and which are the better match to their new flagship ranges? Thank you. Brendon

I totally agree with what everyone has said above, but I just wanted to chime in and reassure you that I too had to mount my rear surround speakers above the door frame height, and while it isn't the height Dolby recommends exactly, you can have peace of mind that they work great and sound excellent at that height. So go for it, and enjoy the fruits of your labor...

They are EXCELLENT in my opinion! I actually contacted Klipsch support and explained what I am planning and asked them which would be the absolute BEST speakers I could get from their in-ceiling speaker range, and this is what they recommended. These will match their RP and RF range perfectly. And you definitely don't need the tweeter aimed at you. I think they did away with this feature in this new model for a reason. And you know you've got a very capable speaker in your ceiling when you run auto room calibration and it sets all your speakers to small, but sets your mains and the PRO-180RPC in-ceilings to large... LOL I of course set them to small manually, but was just funny to see... Anyway, they work brilliantly for Atmos and DTS-X, and sound great with music, even on their own. I wouldn't know how they compare to other in-ceiling speakers, but I couldn't be happier with them, and will add another pair if/when I upgrade my theater to a bigger or dedicated room. Sounds like heaven to me... I'm a little jealous... 😉