FMnoise

This has been covered before. Please review the previous posts for more information. Summary: If the BAR 48 still does not work after you have followed the instructions provided by Klipsch and installed the latest firmware, then the hardware is defective (Best Buy also has plenty of old stock too). You will need to return it for a new one or refund. "Based on the past few months of data, most of the sub power-cycle problems appear to be hardware related (early production units, which now flood the market) so not "fixable" with just the firmware update. Replacement is the only solution. If you have not done so, return for a refund/exchange or try a warranty claim through Klipsch." (* or the seller you purchased it from).

PTC Resistors: https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/ptc_en.htm Size it based on the power the tweeter 'sees' from the crossover (attenuated).

Dave: That looks like a 1.10 Amp polyswitch, not a 0.5 A. They are rated for current and usually paired with a resistor in parallel. Here is a link to where you can purchase one. https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-raychem-rxef110-110a-polyswitch-speaker-protector--071-262

Having that flat roof really paid off...

Rich, "Grid-tied systems send the electricity to the utility company and they credit you for it at a very low rate". *Should have stated "and they may..." for 100% accuracy. Point is, it may not be the same rate. And yes, I have owned homes with grid-tied SOLAR systems.

Not all areas provide a 1:1 exchange for electricity. IN a few places that I have lived, they did not offer that at all and paid a fraction of the charge back to you. Each state sets up this agreement with the various utility companies. It is negotiated between them and can also change in the future. If you live somewhere where a 1:1 exchange is provided to you, then you are very fortunate and the value obtained is certainly higher. The rate that is paid to energy producers (like homeowners with grid-tied systems) may be less than what YOU pay to the utility company for the same. As they say, you need to check with the utility companies in your own area to determine what rates are applicable for your situation.

As others have stated, it all depends on what type of electrical utility system connection you have (or if you are talking about an off-grid system). If you are grid-tied, like many users, than the power you receive (and that your audio equipment will use) is the same power it has always been direct from the power company, so no change at all. The power that you generate via solar or wind is fed back to the utility company and not to your house. Grid-tied systems send the electricity to the utility company and they credit you for it at a very low rate which then is applied as a credit against your utility bill. For safety, a number of laws regulating this process of energy transfer for what is and is not allowed varies by state. If you have an off-grid, dedicated system or a split system (where power is obtained from the utility company and you also have a battery based, secondary system that you can transfer on/off to specific circuits, on demand, then your choice of inverters, wiring and component parts will effect the results obtained. Which ever system you use, I recommend hooking up a high quality data logging system to one of the main outputs, under load, to measure and record the voltage output, current stability plus noise over a period of a few days (or more. A week is better) to get an idea of what types of problems are present. Once you know what needs improving, then changes can be made to address them by priority and save money overall by not investing in technology that does not address the actual problems. *DC to AC inverters are notoriously noisy so quality components are usually a good investment up front. High quality copper grounds and dedicated surge suppressors (circuit) are always a good idea too.

Depends on the firmware spec set by the manufacturer. An 8 Gig USB flash drive only costs about $3 today. Did you try using the 32 G drive? Did the firmware load and all of the LEDs flash just as they said they would in the update instructions. If so, you did it correctly. If not, the drive may be to big OR an error was made during the firmware update process. Based on the past few months of data, most of the sub power-cycle problems appear to be hardware related (early production units, which now flood the market) so not "fixable" with just the firmware update. Replacement is the only solution. If you have not done so, return for a refund/exchange or try a warranty claim through Klipsch.

Even if you required it to be sent in for calibration, you would not need to send it to the manufacturer in the UK for that. Plenty of service calibration companies can handle that in the USA. *And yes, it will cost more (or the same money, $125) to have the calibration check done that you could buy a new meter for!

You just have to try and see (or listen). As others mentioned, that area looks bright so an area rug, drapes or other items may be needed in front of the windows. My own experience with KG4's (excellent speakers!) is that best results may be obtained by spacing them ~ 5 feet apart, about 1-2 feet away from any rear wall (or glass windows in your case) and away from any room corners. They are very finicky in placement. It pays to put on a familiar track with good staging and tweak them little by little. Usually I aim them either straight ahead or toe them in a slightly to place the sweet spot just in front of you (will depend of course on the room layout). Another helpful thing is to prop up the fronts about 1/2 to 1" or so to get the sound at or near the correct listening height where you are seated across from them. Propping them up also reduces floor coupling too (might be a good idea in your building). At high volumes those passive radiators on the rear will fire a lot of sound out the back, sides and bottom. Enough to probably result in many people outside your window hearing your music too. Any chance you can place them on that side wall?

It should be fine. The meter is simply telling you that the recommended Calibration Due Date has now past. If you use it in a regulated environment (or use it to provide services to others for a fee), then it is time to have it professionally calibrated. If not, you should be able to continue to use it as before.

Yep a scammer on our board for sure. He "Rightmas"recently messaged me with the same offer to contact his "friend" for the speakers I was looking for. He had them. Rep = ZERO on this board which should always be a warning to be cautious. Here is the message he sent me on the forum. "If you are still interested in a Klipsch Forte II. I know a guy who has one up for sale. You can email him rifoscers@gmail.com" A check on other forums for the same scammer turns up many stories where he has been running the same scam on many different web forums. Example: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/warning-thief-and-hacker.2099516/

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"controlling it". Could you be more specific about which aspects you are having trouble with? What devices are connected to the TV, via what interface and what is or is not working? Also, have you installed the latest firmware, as provide by Klipsch on their Support Page, to the BAR 48?