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I’ve same drivers with Dave Harris eliptical horns, sounds great, mine cross at 450 hz

Listening room is 13 x 20, but has 2- 5’ archways on long side, so that side has 10’ of wall, opens to kitch, dinning room. If I were to use a regular integrated amp for subs, how to implement crossover? Do you put a cap at speaker for a, say 60- 80hz, low pass filter? I’m doing strictly 2 ch, 2 speaker, audio only, preamp, amp, no AVR . thanks for the response, Ted

I see there is the Anarchy 704 at DIY soundgroup, pretty similar specs and price. A little higher power handling.

I’m interested in building a pair, or possibly 3-4, of these subs. You guys xocered construction extremely well, how about wiring them up. Someone mentions the Bash 300 amp from PE, I’m guessing 1amp per pair, or could I run 3 from 1 amp? Wire from 1st driver to second, in parallel to maintain 4ohm load ? Perhaps 2 per amp would be max to stay at 4 ohm? I’m pretty weak in electronics and need a little guidance. thanks so much, this seems like a great solution to get some bass boost at moderate volume levels, I never listen above 85 dB. btw, is this the Tang Band recommended?

Hi, I’m going to dumb this thread way down. After reading about copying the 402 down to sub 1mm precision, and the difficulty of purchasing raw 402’s, (some seem to have obtained them, others can’t, I’m confused on this) is there a consensus on best way forward to try to construct a large MEH? I’ve seen Synergy Calc, Unity ideas which seem to be straightforward plywood designs with none of the subtle shaping of a 402. Anybody scale these up to 402 size? Any ideas on possible sound quality of the crude, simple geometry of these plywood designs? Myself, and probably others, are interested in attempting a MEH, but myself for sure lack any by the most basic understanding of horn design. I plan on attempting a Synergy Calc build, but would be nice to have some basic, practical knowledge for the non laser scan, CNC, 3D printing crowd out here. I know horn geometry is complex, but is a simplified version likely to yield impressive results? Lot of speculation to answer, I know, just wanted to bring it down to cabinetmaker level. thanks so much, the info here is amazing! Ted

Was the Lampizator in the test? How did it compare?

Hi, Been reading about Purifi class D amps. I know several members have them, or Hypex, I’m wondering about the buffer board and op amp chips. Has anyone tried different buffers or op amps? Wondering if they make a meaningful difference? Looking at Apollon, Nord, March, VTV. Some say the differences are negligible, builders claim a big difference. Thanks

maybe I'm mistaken, i thought you had mentioned high regard for the California bass horn. oh well. Ive been reading papers by Earl Geddes who pointed pointed out that sound quality varies a lot due to horn choice, which to me makes it hard, we have study horn design to improve our systems sound. good thing many of us like doing research i guess.

Chris, I dont know much about MEH, i will look deeper into this. Obvious question to me is having 2,or more, drivers share same horn, when so much attention is paid to horn design, now we've got 1 horn for entire frequency range? I trust other know more than me though. You mentioned another crossover besides the mini dsp, was it Yamaha? Is the mini dsp quiet and flexible enough for the long range? Ill have more questions after i dive into MEH research. thanks

I am getting swayed by the flexibility of actives. I ask about crossover point to make sure i get a driver that goes low enough. Actually as i write this I'm wondering if the lowest frequency of a compression driver can go may be determined by the horn choice. Or is it best to stick with manufactuers rating?

Should ad, proper corner placement is a problem, so I’m shying away from Khorn type designs, unless I can be persuaded it will be a big leap in SQ.

Hi, I’m in the early stages of planing to move to a 2 way, active setup. As a cabinetmaker I am thinking of building bass bin. I have been reading up on Peavy Fh1, California, (thanks PrestonTom for bringing this to my attention), and LaScala clone for this. I’m drawn to California/FH1 for supposedly deeper bass, I’d like to continue w/o sub if possible. Any ideas of what I should be thinking about while making this decision? Still exploring horns for top. Obviously big K402(?), k510, possibly large tractix cone? Is it generally agreed that a 3-500hz crossover is desirable? Thanks for any perspective on this, I know it’s a huge topic, just looking for ideas that I can research to make design decisions. Ted

Hi, I’m trying to get some info on matching horn to driver. Even when using search it’s hard to get general info on how to match the 2 components. Is there any basic considerations for pairing a 1” driver with horn? I’ve heard of exit angle from driver. Are there “unsuccessful” parings, or is it just a matter of the sound characteristics you like. If you find a horn that seems to have good specs does it matter that much which driver you pair it with? The complexity of horns seems staggering, how do people make good matches? thanks, Ted I realize there is no simple answer

Has to have an asterisk by the name, The Who was different without Kieth moon, Van Halen different without David Lee Roth. Similar, but not the same. I call my speakers Cornwalls as a simple shorthand to give basic context. Perhaps we should adopt a new nomenclature, MH=modified Heresy, MC=modified Cornwall, etc...

Well, I’m starting to use REW, but still a real novice. The switch to a 2” horn was a bit of an impulse. So much contradictory anecdotal information. I’m still learning what questions to ask. I’m trying to learn how to “hear” the measurements. Long way to go. Ted sorry for the sarcasm, I know you have to defend the brand and keep clarity.

OMG... it’s a modified Cornwall, a Frankenwall, it’s a Cornwall box with aftermarket horns designed as replacements for Klipsch horns with compression drivers designed not specifically for Klipsch, but knowingly designed with the idea they will probably find their way into some Klipsch products,. Geez, touchy.

I’ll control myself, put in k33, and listen for awhile...

So is the general consensus that in many circumstances the Crites woofer may go the lowest with clean sound? I’d rather try to maximize my speakers rather that get more boxes (subwoofers) in my room. Just trying to get strong 30-35hz. I’m trying my sq. magnets first. thanks again

Thanks everybody! This is so helpful! Great to have way more experienced people willing to answer newbie questions!

Square...

It’s so hard to understand the complicated relationship between driver, box volume, room interaction. The longer I am involved the more I respect real speaker designers!

Chris, I have the original k33’s. I will reinstall and see what they sound like. Thanks for the info. It’s hard in the beginning to understand how to interpret the many specs. Thanks

Not a Klipsch Cornwall, I agree, it’s some kind of “based on a Cornwall’. Mid horn and driver suit my ears much better though.

I have changed the Cornwall horn to a Elipitrac horn with a BSM 4592 driver. This was an unquestionable improvement, not just a change. I can’t imagine anybody hearing this horn/driver combo and not preferring it to my original k52, 1” horn. Just looking to see if people have found woofers that are also an improvement from the 60yr old(?) k33 design. Thus is a technical/modification forum, I see so many people told to leave the designs alone. As great of an engineer PWK was, I feel like there have to be ways to incorporate new ideas, designs to to improve the sound. I understand every change is not always improvement, but some changes certainly can be improvements. thanks for the response though ,dialogue is always beneficial. Ted