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VDS

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Everything posted by VDS

  1. VDS

    Dac’s?

    Was the Lampizator in the test? How did it compare?
  2. Hi, Been reading about Purifi class D amps. I know several members have them, or Hypex, I’m wondering about the buffer board and op amp chips. Has anyone tried different buffers or op amps? Wondering if they make a meaningful difference? Looking at Apollon, Nord, March, VTV. Some say the differences are negligible, builders claim a big difference. Thanks
  3. maybe I'm mistaken, i thought you had mentioned high regard for the California bass horn. oh well. Ive been reading papers by Earl Geddes who pointed pointed out that sound quality varies a lot due to horn choice, which to me makes it hard, we have study horn design to improve our systems sound. good thing many of us like doing research i guess.
  4. Chris, I dont know much about MEH, i will look deeper into this. Obvious question to me is having 2,or more, drivers share same horn, when so much attention is paid to horn design, now we've got 1 horn for entire frequency range? I trust other know more than me though. You mentioned another crossover besides the mini dsp, was it Yamaha? Is the mini dsp quiet and flexible enough for the long range? Ill have more questions after i dive into MEH research. thanks
  5. I am getting swayed by the flexibility of actives. I ask about crossover point to make sure i get a driver that goes low enough. Actually as i write this I'm wondering if the lowest frequency of a compression driver can go may be determined by the horn choice. Or is it best to stick with manufactuers rating?
  6. Should ad, proper corner placement is a problem, so I’m shying away from Khorn type designs, unless I can be persuaded it will be a big leap in SQ.
  7. Hi, I’m in the early stages of planing to move to a 2 way, active setup. As a cabinetmaker I am thinking of building bass bin. I have been reading up on Peavy Fh1, California, (thanks PrestonTom for bringing this to my attention), and LaScala clone for this. I’m drawn to California/FH1 for supposedly deeper bass, I’d like to continue w/o sub if possible. Any ideas of what I should be thinking about while making this decision? Still exploring horns for top. Obviously big K402(?), k510, possibly large tractix cone? Is it generally agreed that a 3-500hz crossover is desirable? Thanks for any perspective on this, I know it’s a huge topic, just looking for ideas that I can research to make design decisions. Ted
  8. Hi, I’m trying to get some info on matching horn to driver. Even when using search it’s hard to get general info on how to match the 2 components. Is there any basic considerations for pairing a 1” driver with horn? I’ve heard of exit angle from driver. Are there “unsuccessful” parings, or is it just a matter of the sound characteristics you like. If you find a horn that seems to have good specs does it matter that much which driver you pair it with? The complexity of horns seems staggering, how do people make good matches? thanks, Ted I realize there is no simple answer
  9. Has to have an asterisk by the name, The Who was different without Kieth moon, Van Halen different without David Lee Roth. Similar, but not the same. I call my speakers Cornwalls as a simple shorthand to give basic context. Perhaps we should adopt a new nomenclature, MH=modified Heresy, MC=modified Cornwall, etc...
  10. Well, I’m starting to use REW, but still a real novice. The switch to a 2” horn was a bit of an impulse. So much contradictory anecdotal information. I’m still learning what questions to ask. I’m trying to learn how to “hear” the measurements. Long way to go. Ted sorry for the sarcasm, I know you have to defend the brand and keep clarity.
  11. OMG... it’s a modified Cornwall, a Frankenwall, it’s a Cornwall box with aftermarket horns designed as replacements for Klipsch horns with compression drivers designed not specifically for Klipsch, but knowingly designed with the idea they will probably find their way into some Klipsch products,. Geez, touchy.
  12. I’ll control myself, put in k33, and listen for awhile...
  13. So is the general consensus that in many circumstances the Crites woofer may go the lowest with clean sound? I’d rather try to maximize my speakers rather that get more boxes (subwoofers) in my room. Just trying to get strong 30-35hz. I’m trying my sq. magnets first. thanks again
  14. Thanks everybody! This is so helpful! Great to have way more experienced people willing to answer newbie questions!
  15. It’s so hard to understand the complicated relationship between driver, box volume, room interaction. The longer I am involved the more I respect real speaker designers!
  16. Chris, I have the original k33’s. I will reinstall and see what they sound like. Thanks for the info. It’s hard in the beginning to understand how to interpret the many specs. Thanks
  17. Not a Klipsch Cornwall, I agree, it’s some kind of “based on a Cornwall’. Mid horn and driver suit my ears much better though.
  18. I have changed the Cornwall horn to a Elipitrac horn with a BSM 4592 driver. This was an unquestionable improvement, not just a change. I can’t imagine anybody hearing this horn/driver combo and not preferring it to my original k52, 1” horn. Just looking to see if people have found woofers that are also an improvement from the 60yr old(?) k33 design. Thus is a technical/modification forum, I see so many people told to leave the designs alone. As great of an engineer PWK was, I feel like there have to be ways to incorporate new ideas, designs to to improve the sound. I understand every change is not always improvement, but some changes certainly can be improvements. thanks for the response though ,dialogue is always beneficial. Ted
  19. Hi, trying to improve base from Cornwalls. I’m wondering about the correlation between bass output and impedance. Currently have Eminence kappa lite 3015 LF4, which has a large, sudden impedance spike centered at 45hz. Wondering if that’s why I when I measure they drop off a cliff at 45hz. Wondering if Fital PR400 which have similar impedance spike, but at 35 hz, (and average 6db louder from 35 to 70hz), would likely give me 10hz lower bass, (and boosted output below 70hz)? does the extreme impedance spike basically shut the woofer down at that point? thanks, Ted ps. Or should I just get subs? I never listen above 85db and don’t listen to EDM, hip hop, pipe organ music, (and only music, no home theater) so I’m not looking to get subterranean base
  20. Hi, I have Cornwalls that I can’t get below 45hz measured. Can you explain your room treatments in a little more detail? And if you’ve made changes in the past year? Thanks
  21. VDS

    BSM 4592

    Chris, you make a strong case! Maybe I’ll pause and seriously look into a 2 way k402 system.I’m not be sarcastic here at all, but you seem to really advocate for 2 way, active biamping as the best solution for high quality horn systems. I will reread you major post on active biamping and give some real thought to it. Thanks
  22. VDS

    BSM 4592

    Chris, thanks for the response and all the info I’ve seen you post. Just to clarify, would the above info be applicable when using the 4592 mid ( non coaxial), crossing over at 500/5500 in a passive 3 way? I’m getting more convinced of active networks all the time, but if I decide to go that route I would need to do complete planning for that approach. Your active crossover “tutorial” on the forum is a great resource, but just want to clarify that I’m talking 3 way here. I’m not deeply experienced in speaker/crossover design yet, so apologies if I’m not understanding you correctly. thanks, ted
  23. VDS

    BSM 4592

    Yah. I was thinking there probably can’t be much of a difference or they would of made them a different product number to really differentiate them from the already popular 4592
  24. Great points from everybody! Maybe it’s not that some recordings sound bad, but just so much less than the really good ones. Demastering sound so interesting, but I feel a large learning curve is involved. (I’m starting the learning curvre to get to active networks first)
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