analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 8:44:55 PM bclarke421 wrote: Not me. This place would be boring and sterile were that the case. ---------------- You're going to have to make up your mind: Thread hijacking is a proud tradition here. Some of the best threads end up going on for pages after the original subject has been deserted. Most of us can have a conversation without clear demarcations of subject. It's not your thread anyway. Your words, not mine. Have a happy day! Analogman

What, yet another, new, moderator? Catch a falling star and put it in your pocket. As always, Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 8:23:40 PM minn_male42 wrote: ---------------- On 1/26/2005 7:49:40 PM Allan Songer wrote: I was teasing Gary who has recently discoverd the joys of old mono LPs. I meant NO disrespect for 5.1! Just look at my later posts in the thread for crying our loud! Why don't you tell me about all the great 5.1 mixes derived from 1950's mono recordings? I have almost no experience with 5.1 or 7.1 other than what I have heard in friend's homes. I have heard/seen some concert DVDs that are GREAT. And one other thing--this thread was hijacking the entire 2-channel forum--it really should have been posted in the Home Theater Forum. Sorry you're bummed out over this--nobody was TRYING to piss you off, BELIEVE me! ---------------- i am not "pissed off".... just trying to enjoy a discussion about SACD..... i really have no interest at all in mono vinyl or the issues that are related to that subject... this thread DOES belong in this forum because the main part of the discussion was centered on MUSIC... the home theater forum discusses movies and reproducing the movie experience in your home - (BTW - concert DVD's are NOT multi-channel music!) the 2 channel forum might be better titled as the "MUSIC FORUM" SACD in all it's forms is a MUSIC format... it really has nothing to do with home theater - except that the convention of 5.1 is a shared speaker arrangement between home theater and multichannel SACD..... (although optimal speaker arrangement is different for SACD and home theater) perhaps if the posters who have "no experience" with multichannel music would refrain from posting in a thread entitled "Listened to SACD Multi-Channel" the discussion could be more productive for the members of this forum who are interested in SACD ---------------- minn_male42, I beg your pardon but you are in error. Please see below: DVD's, Music and Movies Chat about DVD's Movies or Music here. I suggest you familiarize yourself with the Klipsch Forum subjects menu, before you lecture others with regards to your own mistakes. Hope you find this helpful, Analogman

---------------- On 1/25/2005 10:42:53 PM J.4knee wrote: fini, What are you going to use it for? If you are just measuring 115VAC in your house and looking to see if a voltage is present in a circuit any old meter will do. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> 1. Are you looking to make L and C measurements as well or true RMS? 2. Are you trying to make specific quantitative measurements critical to troubleshooting a problem? 3. Will you need to keep it calibrated? 4. Would you classify yourself as the hobby guy trying to build the moral equivalent of a birdhouse as a major project? Not trying to offend you but if you answered number one, two or three yes look into Fluke or B&K. If number four best describes your needs, then the Rat Shack will do just fine. R/Jim ---------------- Thank God someone thinks first. All the best, Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 7:18:30 PM aviserated wrote: Has anyone ever used automotive sandable primer. I can buy a quart of black primer and a gallon of fast dry lacquer thinner pretty reasonable. It also dries very quickly . I can use my orbital sander, air compressor, and paint gun to speed things up. ---------------- The auto primer won't flow on the MDF like it will on metal. Not to be short but I've told you what I'd do/have done. Good luck, Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 7:17:27 PM Allan Songer wrote: Vast numbers of vintage mono records have "U" shaped grooves as opposed to the "V" shaped grooves found on all stereo records. A modern line-contact stylus can absolutely bottom out in the mono groove and this adds NOISE. I agree that a conical stylus may not be such a good idea for stereo "V" grooves: http://www.needleexpress.com/conical.jpg" width=232> Here is the same groove with a line contact stylus: http://www.needleexpress.com/Faq.ht3.jpg" width=236> Now imagine each of these in a U-shaped groove and you'll see why the line-contace may indeed "bottom out." I have serveral Ortofon SPUs and they are a snap to pop on and off the SME arm--5 minutes TOTAL for me to make the change from the conical to the line-contact tip. I don't play Stereo pressings with the conical stylus unless I'm VERY lazy or the record is in rough shape already. ---------------- Yes, I agree that selecting the appropriate stylus shape or profile for the given medium would be an essential condition of a proper setup. I thought we were talking about "bouncing" and multichannel SACDs. I stand corrected. Adios, Analogman

Sorry, had answered the wrong post. Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 5:36:05 PM popbumper wrote: Spray the first coat of poly, let dry for 24 hours. Do NOT sand this coat as film thickness is too thin. Spray a second coat; let dry for 48 hours. NOW, sand using 600 grit between this and any subsequent coats to achieve a smooth uniform surface. Once finished sealing with poly, apply final coat; be SURE last poly coat is lightly sanded so the final finish has something to "bite". Be sure to clean the final poly coat with a tack cloth and Naphtha (to remove any fingerprints/unwanted oils/sanding dust) before applying the final coat. Popbumper ---------------- I agree with the above except you don't need to go as fine as 600 for the in between sandings until you're down to your last couple of coats of poly. If you use something as fine as 600 for every sanding chances are you'll wind up with visible bumps and pimples when you shoot the black. You'll also need A LOT of paper if you go straight 600 grit and take much longer to get the results you want. If you are shooting a true high gloss lacquer you really don't need to use 600 at all until your final sanding, as it smoothes more than it cuts. Regards, Analogman

Hello again, I've tried them all and the best I've used is sometimes hard to find. Ace has had it most of the times I've needed it. "Gold Flex" "Ali-Gator-Grit" is what's printed on the back of the sheets. The cutting side is a light orange in colour. Use the 220 grit. It is wonderful paper, doesn't clog and is the most flexible I have ever used. Seems to cut better the more you use it. If you can't find it, any quality 220 will work, but I promise you this paper is worth the effort. Won't leave the hard lines you get sometimes even when you hand sand. It is expensive, about a dollar a sheet. Buy a whole pack if you like it to have for the next project, if you find it hard to locate. No, I don't work for them, it's just that good! Have fun, Analogman

Hello again, Since the subject came up, The total downward force of a stylus is divided equally between the two groove walls, each of which gets an equal amount of lateral and vertical force. As long as the vertical forces exceed the lateral, the stylus will stay seated in the groove. Conical tips contact with the groove wall can cover several cycles of a short wavelength modulation. This is one of many reasons conical styli are more prone to incorrect tracing and intermodulation distortion, most notably in the high frequencies. These flaws can be tamed to some degree by the cartridge's compliance, but record damage still occurs. If one were to suffer the the ill effects of a "bouncing" stylus/cartridge, it would indicate a fundamentally flawed cartridge, arm, table interface, or setup. It is predominantly a function of compliance. The problems inherent with conical styli may not be audible to the average listener, but it is guarantied that with continued use they will inflict more damage to an LP's grooves than any other type. Happy listening! Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 12:34:20 PM bclarke421 wrote: I guess it technically would dual mono, then. I think he does what I do. Flip the switch on the pre to mono for some records, but listen through both speakers. I s'pose I could turn one speaker all the way down... I've toywed with the idea of getting a mono rig set up. I have a homemade University corner horn, c. 1956. It works fine, but I have nowhere in the house to put it. Plus, wifey would strangle me dead if I even brought it up. ---------------- "techically dual mono"? Mono, "hill and dale" or horizontal plane? Custom Heathkit Model A-4 JBL 130A JBL DLH 175 JBL N1200 Garrard 301/Rega RB300 Stanton cartridge/Truncated stylus Home made "EQ" "black box" Back to Mono Multi-Channel is a gimmick, please refer to the original Hafler circuit for multiple speaker arrangements. Your buddy, Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 4:36:51 PM aviserated wrote: What is the quickist and easiest to use product for sealing MDF before painting with black high gloss lacquer. So far I have used four 11 oz. spray cans of lacquer without using any sealer. Painting and sanding between each coat and the surface still is not smooth enough for polishing to a high gloss without showing imperfections. By the way, these 15 liter bass reflex enclosures are for my Fostex FE167E fullrange drivers that I built using Fostex's recommended enclosure instructions availible at www.madisound.com. These speakers are well worth the the trouble to build and finish. ---------------- Hello, Use a water based polyurethane. Ace brand is good for your purpose. Use the finish coat material, NOT the water based sealer. It will dry hard, sandable and fast. The water based "polys" do produce tiny little bubbles if you use a roller, but can be sanded out easily. When you say "quickest" that means different things to different people. Depending on what you mean by "quick" and if you are willing to wait a few days before final sanding and finish coat, you could use an oil based urethane. It really offers no advantage for your purpose and will cost more. The only upside to oil based in this case is that you may be able to obtain the degree of smoothness you desire with less coats. The water based dries much faster and you can do more coats in far less time. It is also great because you can clean up with soap and water and you've already got a base coat on your project so the water base part won't be an issue. Have fun, Analogman

---------------- On 1/26/2005 7:31:49 AM KT66 wrote: In many full range designs the D cap is designed to contribute to the high frequency response after main diaphragm breakup occurs. A multipurpose thing then.. ---------------- ...as well as on "woofer" designs such as those from B&W. Thank you for an insightful post KT66 Analogman

? What I said Analogman

---------------- On 1/25/2005 9:06:59 AM Frzninvt wrote: Think about it? The clue is in the name! Get it! Dust-Cap! It prevents dust and junk from getting into the voice coil and voice coil gap. Some are solid and others are permeable to aid in cooling the coil under when being run hard. If it gets pushed it if will not affect performance unless it is pushed in so hard that it touches the internal magnet pole piece. ---------------- only partially true and unsound advice from the above post as well as others... The design of the center cap on MOST modern drivers is an essential part of the engineer's intent, primarily with regard to dispersion but also frequency response. eBay sellers and others that tell you that the driver with the pushed in cap "still works and sounds perfectly" are ignorant or just plain dishonest. If you would like to try and restore a damaged cap to it's original shape, I suggest using a funnel and a household vacuum FIRST, before punching holes in it. A hand held vacuum pump is also a good choice as it is easier to control, or if nothing else, your lungs. Be patient and use common sense. MEK can also be used to facilitate the cap's removal, allowing you to reshape or replace it but requires a bit more skill and effort. Punching a hole in the cap should be a last resort only if you are unwilling to attempt the other alternatives. If so, you'd probably be better off leaving it as it is. My comments have even more meaning if the driver(s) in question are rare or valuable. Respectfully, Analogman

"Modern" surrounds will last 20 years or more if you don't do anything. Most products sold over the counter as "mink" oil contain silicone and a lot of other crap. Once you start these types of "treatments" it is often the case that you then can't stop. Analogman

THE CARLUCCI TWINS! Thanks again, Analogman

thebes, Pictures of THE twins, PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE!!!!! It's OK if you have to obscure their faces. Thank you in advance, Analogman

---------------- On 1/24/2005 11:19:41 PM bclarke421 wrote: Primer? I hardly know her! ---------------- Have you EVER had an original thought? Don't degrade fini's domain by crowding it with your own mediocrity. Thanks for your cooperation, Analogman

---------------- On 1/24/2005 5:06:14 PM Gramas701 wrote: ---------------- On 1/22/2005 11:25:28 PM analogman wrote: pay no attention to that BS behind the curtain. Analogman ---------------- excuse me? ---------------- Wasn't speaking to you. Analogman

http://home.earthlink.net/~ivol/klipsch_cornwall/klipsch_date_codes.htm This is useful. Regards, Analogman

---------------- On 1/23/2005 6:31:28 PM plumb1 wrote: Hello I was wondering if anyone would know what year the model 700 Klipsch speakers were produced. I just bought a set on e-bay. Does any know how they compare to Heresy? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Jamie ---------------- Malcolm No Life Total Posts: 1,207 Last Post: 1/17/2005 Member Since: 6/7/2000 Subscribe to this author H700 was the designation for Heresys built between the mid sixties or so through the early 70s or so. It is a full range system, like the later ones. The main difference is H700 has a 16 ohm woofer and a Type C network while the later versions have 8 ohm woofer and Type D, E, or E2 networks. Both the H700 and later versions are to be differentiated from the very earliest Heresys that did not use an autotransformer and just let the woofer keep up with the midrange and tweeter the best it could. The H700s and the later versions all sound pretty much the same to me HDBRbuilder No Life Total Posts: 2,469 Last Post: 1/12/2005 Member Since: 4/13/2002 Subscribe to this author The reason the H700 got its name was from the changeover to the H700 midrange horn lens...prior to the changeover, the midrange horn lens was narrower(from top to bottom) and the crossover from the midrange was not at 700Hz. Basically, the H700series began sometime in the late 1960's and continued on until the advent of the HeresyII in 1985. Pretty much, all the Heresys in this production range had about the same sound...and even into the first few years of the HeresyII. The H700 model was a slight redesign so that the Heresy would stand on its own as a full-range speaker, whereas prior to its introduction, it was considered more of a supplemental speaker system. PWK ever increasingly noticed that the Heresy speaker was being purchased in pairs and being used as a stand-alone full-range speaker system, even though it was crossed-over to be a supplemental speaker system. So, he introduced the larger midrange horn lens into it, brought the bass response of its woofer out more for it as much as feasible from its previous lower output, utilizing crossover network changes...and turned it into what the purchasers were really looking for in a stand-alone speaker system of that size. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I may be stupid, but I can lift heavy things! (And when building LaScalas pretty much with little or no help, you gets lots of chances to lift heavy things!!) -------------------1983 60th Anniversary Edition BMW R100RT------------------- Regards, Analogman

---------------- On 1/23/2005 2:05:07 AM dodger wrote: This is a road we do not need to go down. Some are very proud to state what they have done. Some just keep it to themselves. Being Gay or Straight has NOTHING to do with any of it. This is only going to lead to arguing and cheap shot posts. There are things we can overlook. The sooner, the better. The Topic is Ray Charles, a movie about a Musical Genius. The title of the Movie is RAY. Music performed by Ray Charles. Colin makes a far more pertinent statement in noting that when the music is embedded in DVDs, CDs will be dead. At that point we may all get the short end again. dodger ---------------- Point taken, a truely facetious remark made in poor taste. I stand corrected. Regards, Analogman

A class act. So sad, Analogman

---------------- On 1/23/2005 12:23:19 AM nicholtl wrote: The other day, a jazz fan friend of mine was listening to some John Coltrane with me, and he put it simply: "In my car, all I hear is pauses and silence. On your system, I actually hear him taking a breath and pressing on the notes before the music even comes out." Not the most sophisticated of responses, I realize, but you catch my drift... ---------------- No, not the most sophisticated? Why does the connection with music have to be "sophisticated"? or the realization of articulate,reproduced sound. Your friend is more the MUSICAL sophisticate than you. Analogman