tigerwoodKhorns

Take a close look at the board, if it is any bigger it will not fit through the opening in the speaker. Plus now you have to unsolder and resolder the inductors, transformer and all of the wires, most of which are covered in hot melt. Sounds like a lot of work even if the board could be made bigger.

Oh, they are not so bad. : ) I have my Chorus II's in the system right now and I prefer the P38s.

Probably an optical illusion but yea, ugly and crooked. The color of the wood doesn't even seem to blend with the speaker either.

I upgraded media monkey and cannot play M4A files anymore. I went to their website and can't seem to easily figure this out. It looks like I just need Quicktime, but that was in the past as their latest version is from 2016. What are my options without converting everything to MP3 (or do I need to convert these)?

Here are driver replacement instructions but I think the x-over is below the bottom plate. Palladium driver replacement instructions.pdf

I found a Seller with 100% feedback, has a lot on stock, 60 day returns and Seller pay return shipping. All for $20 or so, seems money well spent.

OK, this video at 6 minutes shows that the laser fires before the CD drive motor to sense if a CD is present. It looks like the laser emits some light which mine does not so I need a laser. Looks like to install this I need an oscilloscope. Does the whole head assembly avoid this?

Good idea. I already removed the drawer motor board and cleaned the contacts on the open and close sensors. They work and test well. I think that the laser is the most obvious right now, but I prefer not to just start replacing parts.

This is in the garage sale section. You can also look for THX Certified equipment that lacks HDMI. These can be had very cheap and tend to be high quality.

So the pattern is fire the laser, then if it senses a CD spin up the CD? I don't mind replacing the laser, but it will not be a genuine part even if they say it is so who knows what I am replacing it with.

OK, I worked on this again. I posted the following over at DIY Audio, and any input here is also appreciated. It seems that if the laser senses the CD prior to spinning the motor I just need a new laser, but I am not familiar with how this transport works. *** *** First post here. I have a Musical Fidelity CD PRE 24 made in 2002 that has a Sony based CD transport with a KSS 213B laser. I took it apart and when I try to load a disc, the drawer closes and the laser board swings up, then the eye of the laser bobs up and down two times and the disc does not spin. Does the laser 'fire' first and then the CD spins or should the motor for the CD also be spinning? If the laser fires first I think that I should just try to replace it. Here is what I have done so far: Removed the drawer motor, check the contact switches, cleaned them with Deoxit, added a drop of oil on the motor shaft (motor spins freely), and a little grease on the shafts holding the gears. Cleaned the laser eye with alcohol. When the laser bobs up and down there is no visible light. I was careful not to look right at it. Tried to adjust the laser intensity - this did nothing. Hopefully I did no damage by doing this. The CD drive motor spins freely and there is no black dust or anything in the chassis to suggest the bearings are shot. The gears on the laser mechanism look good, no cracks in the small drive gear. I tried to use the unit with the ribbon and power to the CD transport unhooked, the unit acted differently and did not do anything. I figured that if it acted the same the issue could be something in another board. I use the unit every day but the CD player has not been used in years. Worked fine last time I used it I think. I might be wrong but I don't remember any skipping but I think it might have had trouble recognizing some discs. It has been a while. Any help is appreciated. If the Laser senses the CD prior to starting the motor I think that this is just a bad laser. Thank you for any help.

They can be a good deal for someone who can remove the wood and fix the veneer. Need a 'repairs needed' discount.

Wise words Bruce.

You are not properly addicted to this hobby. This is an excuse to buy more speakers, take it.

It depends on the thickness of the wire. If you have 100 wpc and use wire that is twice as fat then it will get 66 wpc and the smaller wire will get 33 wpc, the other watt gets lost in friction. 😝

I did unplug the power jumper to the CD mechanism to see if it acted different and it did. I figured if it acted the same then no power from the PS board. I guess this can be a problem in the CD drive - does it transform voltages internally? These are so common I would not mind just replacing the whole thing if I can find a good donor.

Oh man, that made me laugh. Sweet custom work there.

I have a Musical Fidelity CD Pre 24 that has a CD player built in that has stopped working. This unit has a preamp, DAC and CD player all in one chassis and was made in 2002. The mechanism is a Sony CD transport that uses a KSS 213B laser. The transport has 'Sony BO-25' in a few places. I have the transport out and hooked up. The drawer will open and close but the CD does not spin up. I also cannot see any light coming from the laser (I did not look into it, just from the side in a dark room). I tried to adjust the laser using the potentiometer but nothing. If the laser is bad, will the disc also not spin (or even try to spin) or do I possible have a bad motor and a bad laser? Any advice or even where to get a whole new transport from a donor as this looks like a very common transport.

That was a joke. You are talking about a rear firing 'driver' The amount of weight added by a very thin coat of paint is negligible, moving the speaker 6" in or out will make more of a difference as the passive interacts with the wall. The paint from Michales is the best in my opinion as you paint the entire driver, making it look as new with uniform color. Nothing sticks out.

Put then in storage. At some point you may have the time to use them. If you do you will appreciate just how great they are and have carry on a loved ones hobby.

Yes, huge difference. The bass was lacking, the 'air' was gone and the speakers no longer bloomed. So I added some cable lifts and a cyro treated outlet and they came back.

Here is a good deal for a pair with horns.

You should google this, but I used a vacuum hose with a rag to soften the suction and used it to suck out a dent. I think I wet it a little to make the paper softer. After it had marks so I painted the entire passive in black enamel (same stuff used tp paint on canvas. .

Black speakers (not piano but plain black) are worth less than real wood grain. For the price, the Fortes look nice. You can fix the passive on the Chorus, just 'undent it' (vacuum, a little water, etc.) and if they look rough paint them and they will look like new. The paint is 89 cents at Michaels.

16 x 20 is a good sized room. What was the issues with La Scalas in there? In any event, the Fortes are a better deal if in good condition. I just restored both and they are identical except for the woofers and crossovers. Buy the Fortes and add a subwoofer, or you can buy the Chorus, which will work well in your room, but still get a good subwoofer.