dodger

Greetings: In Personal Bankruptcy, whether chapter 13 or a full chapter 7, ALL assets the person has access to are examined. What property, furnishings, savings, # of telephone lines, cable, value of vehicle that can be kept are all determined by the Bankruptcy Law and any State exceptions. To be sure that money sent will truly go to someone, one will have to ascertain the State he lives in exemptions OR have the donations in the name of someone else and Jim can't be aware of this fund as he will be sworn in at a 341 hearing for Chapter 7, take an oath for a chapter 13 re-organization. Any knowing answers hiding, mis-stating any KNOWN assets will subject a person to perjury charges and the dis-allowing of the Bankruptcy Petition. If there is access to the fund through a person's bank/checking account, or transfers to that account from another financial institution is traceable. It is then a Federal crime. In bankruptcy, there is no expectation of privacy. Then there is the matter of any interest that may be earned and social security numbers and taxes. If the Federal Bankruptcy Judge, or a Referee hearing the case believes that assets are being hidden, transferred, sold, or exist without the disclosure in the bankruptcy Petition, Federal Agents can inventory the property, inspect all financial transactions. Though it can be extremely difficult to know if a person receives a check drawn on a bank other than their own and is then cashed at a branch of the bank it was drawn on and never deposited into the Petitioner's own account. I am not an Attorney, this is not legal advice: notice and disclaimer. There is a possibility that if there was a wrongful taking of the children an Attorney licensed to practice in the State the children are in that an Attorney may take the case pro-bono, or contact a Legal Aid Attorney. If taken wrongfully a writ of habeas corpus to produce the children could be issued. Again, this is not meant to be legal advice. Contact an Attorney regarding a fund, regaining the custody. Dodger

Greetings: If it's near NYC, a very good frind of mine is head of a Unit there. Then my God-Daughter is the retired NYSP Superintendent. There won't be much of a delay Win

Good Morning: As a Mac 240 owner to clean areas with no lettering: Simichrome metal cleaner, Harley metal cleaner, wadding cloth - contact me tomorrow, I'll find the name (Cotton-Eze?.) For the rest. get some of the Blue coral with fomblin spray detailer if you can find it or Meguair's Quik Detailer - NO WAX. Spray some of the above after cleaninig the pitted or rust oxidized areas of the chrome only. Protect the tube sockets. After spraying the product on the soft cloth, clean all areas, including transformers. Get some q tips, spray some product into a clean plastic cup, dip the q tip in and do the areas around the speaker terminal barriers, around the stereo, twin amp and mono volume controls and the flip switch (do not drip into the flip switch). Cut a 12 -18" long piece of soft cloth put product on it and clean between the transformers like flossing. You can use wax/pledge on the black bottom (sparay into the cloth), but not on the chrome. I have found that the silkscreening remaining, won't remain if you use those two, or similar products. If you need a new McIntosh logo, I have 2 of the "squared, gaelic style" lettering still in plastic from the factory. I need one of the non-squared. Lastly, use the 4 ohm tap, sound is better with Klipsch. Recommended Pre-Amps, Mac C 20, MX 110 or if you have to go SS temporarily, a Yamaha CR 1000, 1020, 800 or 820. They have jumpers you can remove so either can be amp or pre-amp. Sound is good, if mids bright, their loudness control works by dropping the mid, rather than boosting bass and treble. One was on AudiogoN, some on eBay. The 800 series is $200 or less, 1000 series $300. Have fun!!!!! Congrats, Win dodger

Hello: As in earlier post, my nieces were over, broke the bakelite Speaker Terminal. I would like to upgrade if that's the best way to go. Looking for advice possible used to add on. Suggestions? Thanks, Win

---------------- On 7/9/2003 12:02:44 PM dbflash wrote: Dodger, You talking about the little black baklite post's with the two little screws? Danny ---------------- Hey Danny: Those are the animals. I'd actually like to try an upgrade (not expensive) on them, but first I need a full terminal. Win dodger

Greetings: My nieces were over last night and to sum it up, the plastic that separates the cables is no longer there. Does anyone have one or 2 used multi adaptor styles gathering dust that money would be more fun with? Thanks, Win dodger

Greetings Again: Correction, the Yamaha amps had the designation of CA then the number. I echo the statements of Jim, things to the better degree are disposable. The cost to repair a good number of the '80s, '90s plus equipment exceeds that of a new two channel SS unit. But my McIntosh 30s were originally started in 1954 then continued for about 6 years (I may be wrong), BUT, it can still be repaired, upgraded, restored. Please remember these are my opinions in this post. But with models changing so rapidly and people wanting the newest bells and whistles - don't fix, toss it and buy a new one with more features. That said, note it is not true of all of the newer equipment, some companies have not compromised quality over mass production. I tip my hat to them and also to companies that still have live operators. Win

Welcome to the Forum where answers may be sarcastic at times, I know that I can be opinionated - I own Klipsch!!. For SS, I would also recommend the Yamaha CR1000, CR1020, CR800, CR600 in Receivers. Silver Faced tanks. Integrateds were designated by the TX pre-fix I belive. The units - Receiver or integrateds ending in 20, (CR1020, TX1020) were also very good mates. Lastly, the Sony V-FET line was a great sounding unit - kind of close to tube warmth. Hope this helps. Win dodger

Greetings: B7W comnpared to Klipsch? Well that's like comparing Pee-Wee Herman to Clint Eastwood...... Go ahead punk, make mine play.... To note, wives or husbands will pick up the nuances, full sound, pick out any problems etc. as they live with a Klipsch owner. For some unknown reason, we talk about our speakers more, a good number of us change equipment more, seem to be more familiar with other equipment and have more literature around. There was a comment about Dahlquist yesterday and I side with the person who owns a pair, they can be nicely detailed, very nice in the "breathy" female voices yet don't make your ears ring from being too sharp. As far as bass is concerned, with the Dahlquist as with the Heresys, LaScalas one can add a sub, just read the equipment lists of both 2 Channel and HT members and see how many have a sub - no issue there. I also feel, personally, that Klipsch owners truly enjoy their models of Klipsch they own, but are more open minded when it comes to other brands or other systems we hear. The snob attitude seems lower. So for other brands? Go out, listen and then contact your local Klipsch Dealer. There's a difference between confidence and snootiness. Most Klipsch owners, or those that truly understand Klipsch Speakers don't have to force their opinions. It's personal prefernce, hearing curves, not spending 20K and through listening as we do our significant others pick it up. Have a great, safe Fourth, remember all who brought us here - our parents, friends, those who served in their own way and enjoy. Take Care< Win dodger

---------------- On 7/3/2003 6:31:10 AM sire wrote: The specifications for the rb-5lls do not show anything for the hf crossover. Does this mean there is no crossover? Should I bi-wire these speakers to get the most out of them? Every other bookshelf speaker shows a crossover frequency. Mike ---------------- Hi Mike: The exact Crossover point is 1950 HZ, but noted as 2000 HZ. Hope this helps. Win dodger

---------------- On 7/2/2003 12:55:57 AM prodj101 wrote: yeah, I'd really like to hear a time aligned speaker with the same drivers put in a standard baffle enclosure. I don't think the human ear could detect a difference. from a listening position of 15 feet, it would take the sound from the speakers roughly 13 thousandths of a second. I think anyone would be hard pressed to notice a difference. maybe one of those things that they put on paper to sound cool eh? ---------------- Greetings: I have had that pleasure. It was done with 5 people present and custom cabinets to allow proper mounting on the board were made. Between a Cornwall II and the "Custom mega-buck time aligned," no-one noticed a difference. Take care, be safe, and don't play with fireworks! dodger

---------------- On 7/1/2003 9:03:47 AM fini wrote: dodger, Sorry to hear of your problems! Where do you live? Tell me you HAVE seen a doctor about the possible poisoning, and have talked to a reputable attorney (we have at least one attorney on the BB--Gil--maybe he'll chime in)? I mention this, as you want to be able to have your medical care related to the gas spill covered. Don't worry about possibly coming across as cranky: Happens to the best of us. fini ---------------- Thanks, I do appreciate your thoughts. I live in Rochester, NY. Between the health issues and as we have a full disclosure law when selling, I am concerned. Contamination HAS been found in the house directly across from me - basement, sump, exterior wells sunk by the company to check for concentration, type of chemical: mainly MTBE, some butyl alcohol, butyl ether. Also found in the houses to the left and right of the one mentioned, 8 all told + 6 in exterior. But as the groundwater is contaminated and I live in a 1926 built house with cracks in the basement floor (hairline) if we get a lot of rain, tht groundwater level rises, the sumps can back up and at that point we could get contaminated water in the basement. Thanks Again, Win

Hello: I posted twice yesterday. First thanks, with no disrespect to anyone else that answered, I want to thank Dean, then Craig from NOSVALVES. I also extend thanks to others answering my post on defining EXCELLENT. Also to Justin for some other help. On the Avatar post, if I seemed irritable, my apologies. The knee I had done 6/4 is as swollen as when I had the surgical bandages on it and feels just as good. Additionally, 3/2 (or 3/12 depending on who you're talking to or if you're reading the factsheet/update for June 25th which was distributed June 23rd - Kreskin maybe) we had a "Gasoline Release." Living 800 - 1000 fet from the tank and pipe that "released" (spilled) I'm concerned - health, property value(less). Figures on the spill which none of knew anything about until June 6, 2003: 300, 400 gallons. Report to our Environmental Conservation: 1200 gallons revised to 1500, then 10,000, then 12,000, then 15,000, then 20,000, then 40,000 and yesterday I found out 50,000+ and counting. So with the knee, the gas, contaminated groundwater (we have water piped from our County, so the groundwater isn't a drinking water), the contaminents and the effects on asthma, nuerological, liver, kidneys I was not a happy camper and I apologize to anyone I may have offended or been short with on the Avatar post. Can't sell the house have to disclose the contamination, so I've averaged 2 or 3 meetings a day.....I'll stop whining, but thanks for the vent. Win dodger

---------------- On 6/30/2003 8:45:08 AM NOSValves wrote: Dodger, Sellers have a pretty broad Idea of what Excellent condition is !! If the unit is electrically stock which is the way I prefer to buy them and have my customers purchase them and is described as excellent then I would expect the cosmetics to be near perfect for the amp to be worth $380 no major scratches that can be seen from 2 foot away and nothing broken the amp could have some light dust but should be over all real clean !! Craig ---------------- Craig and Dean, my sincere appreciation for you replies. It's nice to such quick excellent replies! I wonder what a couple more members think? (Strength in numbers. Thanks Again to the two of you and anyone else that replies. Win dodger

---------------- On 6/30/2003 1:11:15 PM justin_tx_16 wrote: dodger, the "problem" is all the hard returns and listing EVERY part of the system. Try to keep it to your speakers and maybe something else special, but listing your entire system in every post gets a little over the top. what many here do is make a website devoted to their theater and put a link in their signature to that site. I do it for ppl, www.soundwise.org ---------------- Greetings: By Wednesday, a number of things will be deleted. But having WEBTV makes it difficult to do a website, plus I go back to the point of listing 2 channel and HT - similar in length at times, but since I am having a problem with a friend, I want them to see how old some of my stuff is, added today. Gone by Wed. If possible could I have a couple more responses to what you the reader expect when you are told a piece of vintage, 35 years or older, equipment is Excellent, should look and perform. Or do you only use the electronics and not the looks when thinking EXCELLENT> I thank you that helped and those that I hope will help on this part. I've already received messages to beat me up for listing. No complaint about the list of my equipment, I'm flexible, but 2 channel dinosaur. Win dodger

Greetings: I am trying to make it smaller in type size. Stll learing HTML. However, there are longer HT sigs. I have a point in emphasizing 2 channel and noting the two channel equipment. Or there are thos that do a 2 channel and an HT. Chris Robinson sent me a nice email to try and make the type smaller when I first joined. I have been trying what is beyond - color, but have found I've increased the size again. If someone would assist me in making sure all type is small except for the headings, I'll do my best and keep working It would be nice (though I know the Moderators have enough to do0 so that we could just submit or equipment, any color and go from there. They could equalize the type style and size. There is a reason for today's changes, I hope to go back in small no color size wed. If you email me could you also check todays posts and give me your answer on equipment condition designations? You can email me. I've received two 101 on a 10 basis but I'd just like to have a couple more. Win dodger

Greetings: Since I have a beard, and I would imagine I am not the only one, perhaps two additional Stock Avators could be added: One with short trim beard and one with a longer beard. That may be a little helpful. Dean, NOSVALVES: I appreciate your replies, does anyone have any others regarding the definition of Excellent as I posted requesting replies? Dean: what model is that that you pictured? Thank You, Win dodger

Greetings: RE: Scott 299 C If you were told (if you went through an ad) that there was a Scott 299 C - Excellent, for sale how would you define that and what condition would you expect a vintage unit of that age to be in? 1. Electronically, what shape/condition 2. Physical Appearance/Aesthetics: cleaned by Seller, you clean 3. Scratches, 2 scrapes on bottom of faceplate - one is #/8" long other 3/16"), some pitting on Faceplate (3/8" scratch/gouge above "MAG" slider switch, 4. Dirty plastic/metal knobs with circular rings of dirt around some of the knobs, minor pitting, very small, on metal insert of knobs, 5. Fingerprints, dirt, some lettering missing on chassis bed (tube bed) with paint coming off of the transformer (no cabinet), 6. Avg. #/8 x 1/4 " making tape glue and paper or price tag residue on blck base of 7591 output tubes (all 4), 7. Broken fuse. OR would you consider the eletronics inside, if in good condition, clean inside to meet the criteria for EXCELLENT or would you expect both inside and outside (Aesthetically/Faceplate and chassis to be cleaned by the Seller), there was no damage to inner outer boxes, or to plastic wrap around unit intact, no punctures, gouges, signs of dropping, etc.) Over time I have bought many vintage piece, from friends )or so called friends) and strangers and I know my standards. I would like to find others definition of EXCELLENT. I did see some pics, but the dirt, the gouges/scrapes, tape on tubes plus broken fuse were not visible to me. Depends on lighting, There was an offer to refund "some" of the $380.00 to clean the exterior dirt and replace the fuse on this "30 year old unit.' "the age has to be considered... the Electronics are some of the best he had seen..." Please reply I thank you all, Win dodger

Greetings: 1. As all have said and I agree, do your research - know as many Authorized - note the on your infor sheet, and non-authorized dealers that will sell you an extende warranty - note that and how long they have been in business. 2. Run off a list of your equipment and let them know you will be arepeat customer and ask for the sales clerk's business(s) and spread the word. 3. If you can afford it, walk in and have $25.00 over the price you will pay in cash. If they see that you are counting how much cash, that is of more interest to them. If the store clerk still quotes a price higher than you wish to pay, pull out you credit card and say, "well, I don't know, I know this person from the City/Town government who paid - your price." That does 2 things, the stores pay a percentage on Credit card transcations and also lets them know (be sure of a name in the City/Town government) that you know a precedent of someone that paid cash received a lower price. And if all that does not work, know a couple of brands that store does not carry and and say that you've only budgeted xx number of dollars because you're saving for (mention the next piece of equipment you really are going to buy) but you will go to another store to buy the other brand and start to walk, mutter something about lack of discounts to young people as you're walking away ..... just loud enough so as you walk they can hear you, also mutter that it will be the last time you follow so and so's advice on where to go and you could have stayed home and ordered it from the Internet - don't forget shipping costs. Good Luck

Greetings again: Clu and fini - those can be great deterrents, the p on the thief's leg and they can slip on it. Seriously, the barking of any dog can be a deterrent. Also when you videotape take a shot of the front page of the daily paper and have something like CNN on quietly so you can speak over it, but audibly. This will help to authenticate date of filming. Win

Greetings: Background: 6 years Co-Ordinator: Police and Citizens - Together Against Crime program Family Crisis Intervention Team Victim/Witness Program Crime Analysis Unit: prostitute, gang tracking, recruit background checks, crime stats/calls for service analysis and basic printout, etc. 8 years Public Relations Chair: International Society of Crime Prevention Practitioners, liason to and 2 years Public Relations Chair New York State Crime Prevention Coalition, Same for Finger Lakes Area Crime Prevention Practitioners Association Western NY liason National Organization of Victim's Assistance (NOVA) 450 certified, College credit or CEU Hours Crime Prevention training. Point: when looking at crime, black on black crime constitutes a majority of crimes committed - assault/battery, shootings, break-ins, car theft,home invasions, other crimes against person and property. That is an outright shame, no one race should victimize so many members of their own race. As we are on this forum, there is no color - we are people who enjoy discussing audio. We can think we know what race, age, ethnic origin, even sex, each other is but it does not matter one iota. I am extremely glad that no-one was injured, enough times a thief may figure that they have nothing to lose and assault a witness. I'm also glad that only the peripherals were taken, not sections of your system or worse, vandalizing it. RE: Weapons: My own belief and treatise lie in the fact that each person be trained how/when to display or use and a traing on proficiency in use - add trigger locks and weapon and ammunition in 2 locked areas - helps to reduce crimes of passion. Just be prepared - if you display a weapon and there is more than one person, or a person with a long pedigree - you had better be ready to use it and justify it, they may have nothing to lose and use deadly force first. Alarms and dogs are great. put your lights on timers and do not vary if you're going out for a night or a vacation. Alarms: Monitored are great, BUT, there are steps including the company calling the residence. The average thief wants to get in within 3 minutes. If you have an alarm already, add a second wireless, focusing on "Passive infra-red Detectors" if possible (PIRs), No motion sensors - make sure all of your system is covered within the boundary beam of the PIR. Add outdoor sirens and for the indoor horn, the midrange horn from a Heresy if lovingly deafening. Add glass break sensors and you can get outlet units you can plug lamps into that will start flashing when a certain level of noise occurs - make sure sensitivity is adjustable. DO NOT ENGRAVE OR MARK PROPERTY WITH YOUR SOCIAL SECURITY number ! A police agency has to send a letter asking the SS Administration for the name- the SS has to contact the person for permission to disclose identity, the person responds back to SS, SS back to Agency, by that time it's usually been auctioned because of the length of time. Use your driver's License number or see if your loacal Department or State has an "Operation I.D. program. Until funding ran out, my State had an I.D. program that used the NCIC (National Crime Information Clearhouse) number assigned to the State, County, city/town/village. Plus your own unique number after. Have a stamp made up with that # and put in 1 obvious place then somewhere you'd know, but the thief may not look for it. The OP ID is great using the NCIC number - any recovering Agency can take one look and see that it came from xx area and contact them Then they contact you. Last video tape your entire household, focus in on items with serial numbers and speak them along with a description, pan the entire room, it's amazing how much knick-knacks can add up to or what you may forget. Have jewelry appraised, stereo, HT equipment appraised, go to websites that show the same item for retail sale price, or ebay/auction. Type out an inventory and put the tape, receipts and inventory in a safe deposit box. Also put your tax returns in the box that makes it tax deductible if you itemize. Put your will in but give a copy and a power of Attorney to your spouse and or Executor(trix). If you have certain burial wishes let some one know don't put it in your will, let your next of kin or executor know. If your fire code permits, use quality 6 pin daedbolts, if glass near use the double cylinder - refer to your code. Then take a key tie it to a picture and hang it more than arms length away from glass. you'll be able to find it in a smoky fire. Best to have two locks and use the double cylinder if permitted only when away from the house. Get the second wireless alrm with PIRs - cover system, doors, windows, get adjustable if you have a pet, it's a little more difficult if you own a cat with their jumping up but it can be done. Use Klipsch midrange driver as siren indoors. Remember the 4 d's of Crime Prevention: Dlay, Detect, Deny, Deter this lead to displacement, let them break into someone else's house. But don't make it look like a fortress, people get curious as to what you're hiding. Glad all are safe. Class over. Just remember we're all in this together don't be afraid to call 911 if you see something suspicious, and let the car roll to your house - sometimes the criminals try small things to see if anyone does anything. If they see lights come on in numerous houses and a Patrol Vehicle roll up, they usually go elsewhere. Disclaimer: the above information if taken and methods stated are employed, there is no guarantee a crime will not occur. If they're determined to carry out your stereo (or your K-Horns LOL), they will. Peace and safety for all members and readers of this forum and their families and loved ones. May never, never again have anything bad happen to you, your family and loved ones. My wishes for you and yours - Peace, Prosperity and Harmony for today and for all of the todays to come. Win

---------------- On 6/24/2003 5:59:15 PM NOSValves wrote: Let me rebuild the 299C and it will probably blow the McIntosh out of the water !!!! That should gets something going in here LOL !!!!! ---------------- Craig, I'm suprised, you're talking about "blowing the McIntosh ot of the water..." Electricity and water are a dangerous combination, be careful. (In my best Clint Eastwood voice and stare) Son, you don't rattle a McIntosh owner, especially one that's pickin' up one those 299 Cs. Don't forget some of them Macs have been called the widow maker..." The Dodger :)

---------------- On 6/24/2003 4:41:03 PM Allan Songer wrote: When you paid $209 for the MC-60s a typical Scott 299 was worth NOTHING or close to it!!! Even into the mid to late 1980's I was buying nearly mint 299s for as little as $25, but certainly no more than $50. The reason vintage McIntosh and Marantz gear is so highly prized and valuable is because it's really GOOD and the build quality is second to none. Scotts are really cool little amps, but to compare a 299 to a pair of Marantz 5 running through a Marantz 7 or a pair of McIntosh MC30 running through a C22 is like comparing a nice '65 Mustang 289 with a Ford GT40. That's the way I see it. ---------------- This is not to be an argument or disagreement, but in the '70s and '80s, there were a good number of people getting rid of "that old tube junk - that included 3 McIntosh amplifers (1 MC 275, 2 MC 40's) and 2 or 3 Marantz 8Bs that friends pulled out of the trash on the night before garbage pickup. That does not include some of the NOS tubes I salvaged and traded. It was a sign of the times - people of a certain age bracket that did not keep up with all audio trends thoughts tubes were outdated, old technology, Solid State was the be all and as it progressed digital became an important medium. Cds were touting A-D-D, D-A-D, D-D-D, etc.. Now we're getting SACD's which may render some or most regular CDs as old because they're just 2 channel, sound is coming from multi channel etc. As a lark, I tested the KT-88s that had been in the older of my MC 60s, Genalex Gold Lion - passed all specs for new - (my pair was obviously a Mono then addition of second for stereo - think of the arguments back then..... Tube units for the most part can be repaired, modified, rebuilt as compared to a fair amount of SS which when it breaksdown, throw it away and get a new one. The tube units include Scott, and yes Mom and Pop had those too otherwise there would not be so many in such good shape still around. If I had been smart in '59 -'68, I would have saved my allowance and bought matched pairs of Genalex Gold Lion KT-88s for $19.50 (MP) to their high of $ 44.00 from Allied - Id be better off now. So in the end, you can compare the quality of sound, like I said McItosh and Marantz were built like tanks. But for a good sounding integrated amp that is affordable today ( not as many of the parts left the country, still are and some of those sellers to out of the country are lamenting the high cost of parts, poor availability of units and parts and yet they keep shipping......DUHHHHHHHHHHH) I've got original owners manuals for all McIntosh - 275, 240, 60s, 30s, C-20, C-22, MX-110, a Fisher stereo (bird with note in its beak on glass on a metal base and I can't find an original 299 C owner's manual, I also have original Service Manuals for the McIntosh . Would consider trade of one of the Mac manuals of a unit I don't own for the 299 C manual. Ben - I may take you up on a good copy, let me know cost. It's like my Pioneer TX-900 tuner. The person who rebuilt it was amazed when he compared it to his MR-78 and MR-80 extremely close in performance. Not saying Pioneer is built like McIntosh or Marantz, but the comparison turned out quite well. So knowing quality difference (remember diamonds are carbon and one company mines most of them to keep prices artificially high) one can still compare the quality of sound between McIntosh and Scott. I'll post my opinions on the comparisons - on the Chorus IIs, Cornwall IIs and Heresys. Win

---------------- On 6/24/2003 4:41:03 PM Allan Songer wrote: When you paid $209 for the MC-60s a typical Scott 299 was worth NOTHING or close to it!!! Even into the mid to late 1980's I was buying nearly mint 299s for as little as $25, but certainly no more than $50. The reason vintage McIntosh and Marantz gear is so highly prized and valuable is because it's really GOOD and the build quality is second to none. Scotts are really cool little amps, but to compare a 299 to a pair of Marantz 5 running through a Marantz 7 or a pair of McIntosh MC30 running through a C22 is like comparing a nice '65 Mustang 289 with a Ford GT40. That's the way I see it. ---------------- Greetings: I understand your post - and agree. I am not saying Scott is the same quality - parts, some design, etc. The points of my post were in the original post of mine and the follow up post was to compare sonically the 299C to the McIntosh equipment to see how the sound is. McIntosh and Marantz were built like tanks and the sound is there, no doubt. BUT a little comparison would be interesting, but they are different leagues. Win

---------------- On 6/24/2003 3:19:50 PM DaddyDee wrote: Well, I sure have enjoyed my 299B. For me it has been a good way to get into tubes w/o breaking the bank. I hear people with alot of tube experience compare the quality of sound in these amps to higher priced amps. In bang for the buck it can be a good deal. They can be rebuilt to get to spec with good results. Regards, Dee p.s. if you get this amp, hope you can post about your reaction to the sound. ---------------- Greetings: Dee, you're on the money as NOSVALVES. When I get mine into system, I will do an A/B between the 299 C and my McIntosh 240 - similar power, most fair of comparisons with what I have, I may even put it against the 30's. Will report. When you buy it see how long it has been since being used - I've learned from the Forum (thank you all) that it may be best to bring voltage up with a Variac. And yes I'd like to hear (read) your impression when you get yours. Happy tubing! Win