jbek Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 Just thought I'd get some opinions here.. I'm in the midst of finishing a pair of original '76 CD-BR "designer" series Cornwall 1's. Photo attached. I originally thought of going with a Tung oil finish, but have tentatively decided to go with a Minwax stain/polyurethane combination. I figure the polyurethane will protect the exposed plywood edges of the Designer series better. What do you guys think? I read somewhere that end grain should be protected with a solution of 1 part shellac to 4 parts alcohol so that a better color match between the veneer and the end grain of the plywood is obtained. Apparently the end grain soaks up the stain quicker than the veneer and it will come out darker otherwise... What do you guys think? What color stain would you guys go with? My gut says something in the natural range, but I'm not sure what... Since these are the Designer versions, I would like to minimize the impact of the exposed plywood end grain. With that in mind, perhaps a darker stain would go better? Most of the color samples in the store are on pine & oak samples and the same color varies signigicantly between the two.. Since a Birch sample isn't shown, I'm wondering what would look best. Is there a "typical" stain color that matches up well with birch? Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated! Any photo samples would be awesome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 jbek, I have nearly identical speakers. The picture attached here is before I had a professional "touch them up". They look awesome. Nothing on the wood except Linseed oil. They are very, very smooth and the luster is incredible! If there were not for a few very small imperfections in the veneer (which is nearly impossible to see), they would be mint. I guess I'm recommending no stain at all. Please take a picture when yours are finished and share it with us. BTW, inside I cleaned all the contacts, replaced the tweeter diaphragms (Sorry fini, I couldn't locate the instructions to send to you.), and replaced the binding post with Cardas 5 way. These speakers are with me to stay! It's neat to see the reactions of people who see my rig. They don't know what to make of it (tube amp, old horns, 1969 Sony tuner). But after hearing it, more than a few have asked, "Can you help me set up something like that?". Even one friend who has a $25,000+ setup was blown away. Looking into vinyl next... Chris PS Kelly, I picked up about 100 LP's from thrift shops in my area (avg. price <$.50). What's the best way to clean them up? ------------------ 2 channel Klipsch Cornwalls (1978) Cary CAD 300SEI amp (WE 300B's, various NOS 6SN7's) Arcam Alpha MCD cd player Sony 5000F Tuner (1968) HT Klipsch KG2.5 (front & rear) Klipsch KV2 (center) Klipsch SW12 (sub) Marantz SR700 receiver Toshiba DTS DVD JVC SVHS VCR Sony Hi8 VCR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbek Posted February 7, 2002 Author Share Posted February 7, 2002 Hehe... I already have a couple of photo's of your speakers I've pulled off the forums.. I've been looking at yours as my "natural" example!! Beautiful speakers! What do you think about the polyurethane vs hand rub oil decision? Do you think the oil will protect the corners like poly would? Had any trouble with yours? Thanks, JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 My guess is that you would get some sort of protective benefit from a "poly" type coating. At the same time, with only Linseed oil to protect mine, they seem ready for the long haul. Although, I did have them professionally "touched up". Which included some fixing of very, very slight delaminating on the bottoms. So my choice would be to use as little wood preparation as possible. The wood Klipsch used for these speakers is very high quality when compared to something in a similar price range today. I'm guessing Cornwall's made with the same quality today would go for $4,000-6,000 a pair. Maybe more. Have Fun, Chris PS I see by your post that you are from Fremont, CA. My speakers came from nearby Orinda. They are on "permanent loan" from an old and dear friend of mine who had them in storage for the last 10-15 years. Yeah, like he'll EVER see them again. Just kidding... ------------------ 2 channel Klipsch Cornwalls (1978) Cary CAD 300SEI amp (WE 300B's, various NOS 6SN7's) Arcam Alpha MCD cd player Sony 5000F Tuner (1968) HT Klipsch KG2.5 (front & rear) Klipsch KV2 (center) Klipsch SW12 (sub) Marantz SR700 receiver Toshiba DTS DVD JVC SVHS VCR Sony Hi8 VCR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 My front La Scalas were done professionally with a Minwax stain and satin polyurethane. I'll bet he used a "sealer" to keep the stain from looking blotchy. Home Depot has it in Minwax and other brands. check out the pics on my site. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Robinson Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 I second John's post ... and I wouldn't use a combo stain/poly because you only get one shot at it and you have to live with the way it turns out. Since you've got it sanded out, get a pint can of Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner, and paint it on. As John says, if you don't do this, it will be blotchy and will be very disappointing. Soft woods like birch absorb stain at different rates if they're not pre-conditioned chemically, per above. After pre-conditioning, take the Minwax (or other brand) stain of choice and apply it a coat at a time, letting it sit for about 7-10 minutes per coat before wiping off. Let dry 24 hours between coats, and apply another. Three to four coats should give you a deep rich color, then follow with 2 coats of poly, sanding in between. You'll be pleased with the way it comes out. I'm doing my Khorns and they look great. ------------------ If you don't like what is coming out, you wouldn't like what is going in." -PWK- --------------------- Klipsch 1968 ALK Cornwall "II"s (LF/RF) ALK Belle Klipsch (Center) Klipsch Heresy (RR/LR) Klipsch KSW-12 sub Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Cornwalls) Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Heresy's) Denon AVR-4800 Toshiba SD-3109 DVD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 jbek, if you wanted to cover the exposed edges of your speakers you could buy the 3/4" prepasted veneer available at most large hardware stores.You simply use a hot iron to melt the glue already on the veneer and after drying trim with a razor knife.I used it on shelf edges years ago on a large oak bookcase I built and it is still tight today,over ten years later.Unpasted may be better if you could clamp it till dry.Just a thought.Good luck. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InventiveAudio.com Posted February 10, 2002 Share Posted February 10, 2002 First remove the original finish. Next, sand with 220, 320, 400, and 600 grids. The best too you can buy for this is an orbital sander. Now use tack rags to rmove all the dust, etc. Tape a cutout of the woofer, made from carboard, to the driver and use tape to cover the other drivers. Buy some water based poly in an aerosol can. Spray several light coats letting each coat dry for about 40 minutes. Sand with 600 and give one more final coat. Next, apply Johnson paste wax and you're done. Poly is a tough and durable finish. Linseed oil will not hold up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted February 10, 2002 Share Posted February 10, 2002 You don't necessarily get one shot at it. After sanding, rub the surfaces with a clean rag soaked in turpentine OR mineral spirits. Cleans the surface but more also gives an idea what the surface will look like finished. The turp highlights distressed areas that need additional work. When satisifed, two parts boiled linseed oil to one part turpentine is the recipe for "oil finish". Apply warm (stand in sun, sit it on radiator) and slop it on heavy, let it stand for 20 minutes then rub it out with clean muslin or denim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danartdis Posted February 14, 2002 Share Posted February 14, 2002 Hello to all. I am usually in the HT section or powered subwoofers but I digress. Has anyone seen the Cornwalls currently on Ebay? They look a pretty ratty and I was wondering if anyone else has seen them or if anyone is contemplating the job they will require. I guess what I am asking is...I would love a pair of Cornwalls but really cant afford a pair that is mint. Is this a nightmare job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbek Posted February 15, 2002 Author Share Posted February 15, 2002 Not so far from my perspective... You've basically got a box with all square edges and no fine nooks or crannies that you would need to get into sanding out... If you can get a good deal on a pair, go for it.. Factor in around $25 for materials and probably several weekends if you take your time... My biggest thing is what color to stain them.. I still haven't made up my mind.. That and I can't find a pair of midrange horns to put in them... (I'm starting with just cabinets and I don't want to finish them until I'm sure I'm not going to have to make any mods to them...) The only other thing I'd say is to make sure you're happy with the color they are currently stained or try to find a raw birch pair... Other than getting into bleaching the wood (seems like a hassle..), it's impossible to sand down the wood to virgin veneer... Check my in process photo at the top of the thread.. jB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danartdis Posted February 15, 2002 Share Posted February 15, 2002 thanks JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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