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Dedicated circuit question....


Coytee

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I AM an electrician , have been for 13 years , and there is absolutely bennefit from running 10AWG wire , its called voltage drop. Your amps power ratings assume a steady 120V ac at the wall outlet , the amperage ratings on romex are only good for a certain distance then they drop , #14 wire at a length of 200 ft won't even carry 10 amps let alone 15 , also the guy who said not to run multiple circuits because of ground noise was correct reason being there will be small differences in impedance on each ground run , your equipment will then choose the path of least resistance and hum like crazy. The best thing for you to do is run one dedicated circuit , A 30amp breaker with #10awg wire should suffice if the wire length is under 90 feet , if its over 90 feet up the wire size to #8awg , still on a 30amp breaker ,m the will prevent any voltage drop. Going this route there will be no ground loops , and you will have 3600 watts continuous available for your system. As far as getting the wire on to the receptacle , there are 15 , 20 , and 30 amp rececptacles that accept the proper size wire accordingly. If your run is over 90 feet and you have to go up to #8 , you simply wirenut 3 short pigtails of #10 at the receptacle , problem solved , hope this helps you , mike price

Mike, from a carpenter, it's good to have an electrician on board!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it would not be code approved to tie grounds from different circuits together, would it? I was just thinking that would have solved ground-loop problems. What about running ground wires to a ground rod located outside close to the audio equipment?

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Mike, from a carpenter, it's good to have an electrician on board!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it would not be code approved to tie grounds from different circuits together, would it? I was just thinking that would have solved ground-loop problems. What about running ground wires to a ground rod located outside close to the audio equipment?

Thanks , the grounds can infact be all tied together , no code issues there , as far as driving a ground rod just for your audio equipment , it's an excellent idea , and is reffered to as an isolated ground , but its alot of work too. Most of your noise is usually going to come from othre appliances on the same circuit , or dimmers , ac adapters etc. as long as all you have on the circuit is audio equipment you should be ok. As an electrician and an audio enthusiast I highly reccomend running a dedicated circuit , or two depending on your needs , and it should be at least a 30amp cicuit , #10 wire , no splices anywhere. The general power circuits in houses are not designed with the power demands of a large sound system in mind , theyre there for lamps , alarm clocks and tv's , when you plug your amplifier in to a standard 15amp receptacle , is going through #14 wire , which is spliced at every other receptacle it powers , and often feeding lights in the room too , not an optimal power source for your sound system. I could go on forever with reasons why to do it , so I'll just leave it at this , if you have the means to run dedicated power , do it , its for the best

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as far as driving a ground rod just for your audio equipment , it's an excellent idea , and is reffered to as an isolated ground , but its alot of work too.

Mike, in this situation, could you then just run a dedicated 2-wire circuit (say, 10 ga.), and an isolated ground (to a ground rod)?

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as far as driving a ground rod just for your audio equipment , it's an excellent idea , and is reffered to as an isolated ground , but its alot of work too.

Mike, in this situation, could you then just run a dedicated 2-wire circuit (say, 10 ga.), and an isolated ground (to a ground rod)?

Yes you could , but with the dedicated circuit the ground rod isn't really needed. You havin trouble with ground noise , or ya just curious?

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No, not really having electrical problems (that I've noticed). I was just wondering if any interference/noise would be caused by the grounds of all circuits being together in the panel. But the neutrals are all together there anyway...

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I have a emotiva xpa-3 on the way and I am a little worried about overloading the 15 amp breaker i have.

I have my sony 60" tv, pioneer elite receiver, subwoofer, xbox 360, ps3, directv plugged into it now. I only use the tv, receiver, sub, amp, and either xbox, ps3, or directv dvr. I never use all of them at the same time. I should be getting real close if not over in amps with the new emotiva.

just a rundown, not positive: tv 240watts, receiver, 490watts, sub, 250watts, amp 600watts, xbox 360 160-180watts, ps3 160-180watts, directv dvr ?watts

I do have one option. I had a 220 that I converted into 2 110s and ran two 20 amp 12-2 wire off of. One wire went to a room that was problematic and kept throwing breakers. all i have in there now is a ceiling fan, computer, and a very small tv which nevers get used. the other 20 amp line went to a bathroom 1400 watt heater. I was thinking of putting the heater and the computer room on the same circuit. 20amps should be just about right. the heater should only draw 11.5-12amps and the lights, ceiling fan, and pc shouldnt pull that much more. I could then use the other 20 amp which is free now, to run to the living room (35-40ft away) for the home theater components.

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I have a emotiva xpa-3 on the way and I am a little worried about overloading the 15 amp breaker i have.

I have my sony 60" tv, pioneer elite receiver, subwoofer, xbox 360, ps3, directv plugged into it now. I only use the tv, receiver, sub, amp, and either xbox, ps3, or directv dvr. I never use all of them at the same time. I should be getting real close if not over in amps with the new emotiva.

just a rundown, not positive: tv 240watts, receiver, 490watts, sub, 250watts, amp 600watts, xbox 360 160-180watts, ps3 160-180watts, directv dvr ?watts

I do have one option. I had a 220 that I converted into 2 110s and ran two 20 amp 12-2 wire off of. One wire went to a room that was problematic and kept throwing breakers. all i have in there now is a ceiling fan, computer, and a very small tv which nevers get used. the other 20 amp line went to a bathroom 1400 watt heater. I was thinking of putting the heater and the computer room on the same circuit. 20amps should be just about right. the heater should only draw 11.5-12amps and the lights, ceiling fan, and pc shouldnt pull that much more. I could then use the other 20 amp which is free now, to run to the living room (35-40ft away) for the home theater components.

Sounds like you got yourself a pretty good plan there , I believe that the emotiva on top of the rest of your system is too much for that 15amp circuit , being that you have a spare 20amp accessable should work out fine , I had my whole system on one 15amp breaker at one point , and at peak action sequences in movies , or with bass heavy music , i could actually see the lights on the equipment dimming , then I added my EP-2500 to the mix , first movie I put on it tripped the breaker. So I ran another (30amp) circuit , and put my receiver and amplifiers all on it , worked out great. Also , I been looking at those emotivas , looks like very nice stuff for the money , I was considering Getting one of the 3 channel models for my front stage , rears really dont need it so i was just gonna keep them on the receiver.

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well from what I hear in the emotiva thread at the avs forums, a couple guys were worried about the same thing I am. From what I see, there people running emotiva amps and all their other gear on 15 amp breakers. I really dont want to put my bathroom heater on the other 20 amp if I dont have to, but if all else fails, I will. The guys in that thread said that at peak listening, that the emotiva was only drawing 6 amps. he most of the time, it only draws like around 3 amps. I hope i will be ok with the 15 amp.

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Coyotte,after reading some of the advice on here, I sincerly hope that if you plan to follow any of it that your fire insurance is paid in full.

I would love to know what Mike Price's journeyman's license number is. He suggests that you protect 15 or 20 amp receptacles with a 30 amp breaker. Should you ever have a problem that breaker would make sure that your equipment is absolutly toasted.

The only thing he is somewhat correct about is voltage drop. It could be an issue under some conditions, but rarely, if ever, will voltage drop be an issue in a residential situation.

The only piece of advice that was accurate is JJKIZAK who said that you are only allowed to calculate 80% of a breaker's ampacity when calculating circuit loads.

Please consult a QUALIFIED LICENSED AND INSURED electrical contractor. Which is what I am.

Good luck.

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Here's what you need....I've put a few of these in....doing another next weekend for an HT setup...5000 watts using 60-0-60 balanced power off a sub panel.

post-22082-13819445502248_thumb.jpg

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Coyotte,after reading some of the advice on here, I sincerly hope that if you plan to follow any of it that your fire insurance is paid in full.

I would love to know what Mike Price's journeyman's license number is. He suggests that you protect 15 or 20 amp receptacles with a 30 amp breaker. Should you ever have a problem that breaker would make sure that your equipment is absolutly toasted.

The only thing he is somewhat correct about is voltage drop. It could be an issue under some conditions, but rarely, if ever, will voltage drop be an issue in a residential situation.

The only piece of advice that was accurate is JJKIZAK who said that you are only allowed to calculate 80% of a breaker's ampacity when calculating circuit loads.

Please consult a QUALIFIED LICENSED AND INSURED electrical contractor. Which is what I am.

Good luck.

I do hold a current louisiana journeymans license , you must have misread something there because i made no such suggestion , the fella stated that someone told him he would have trouble putting #10 wire on a receptacle , to which i replied that there were different rated receptacles that accepted different size wire accordingly. As far as "making sure his equipment is absolutely toasted" the breaker in the panel is in place to protect the wire , not the equipment. The fuse in the amplifier should protect the amplifier equally wether it be plugged into a 15amp , or a 30amp.

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who could really know how much it costs. it depends if you get an electrician do a side job, to calling a company. i had it done on the side and it cost me $85 to run a 12/3 line with a new breaker and 20a receptabl. i went to lowes and for 100' for the same wire was $92. i think i made out.

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