colterphoto1 Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I picked up a pair of LSI's over the weekend. Black fibreglass models with the aluminum trim. These were part of 8 that were installed in a club in Las Vegas so they've not been toured. No chips, dents, etc. That's the good news. The bad news is that one must have been near the stage because someone took the time to paint the entire thing flat black. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHh I think probably a light sandpaper is perhaps the best thing to use on the aluminum trim, get it cleanup up really good then mask it off and use some type of non-caustic chemical to remove the flat black paint from the fibreglass (chop-gun matt style) coating. Any tips? I sure don't want to butcher this up. It's twin is near perfect. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksonbart Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 put on some sexy music and get some fruit, worked for Kim Basinger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Michael, is the aluminum trim removal? Some of the ones I've seem have been attached with flush screws, if so then you can etch or polish as you desire. I don't know if there is anything out there that will remove the paint without removing the fiberglass also. Depending on what type of paint, maybe paint thinner with a soft brush. Good luck CB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 there is some adhesive under the trim and it's my info that they are each cut to size so that they abutt the corners exactly, therefore I'd need to number each piece. I think I should leave the trim attached. perhaps they'll just get a shot of gloss paint to make it look like the original surface. I'll hit em with a soft wire brush today and see if the flat black wants to just flake off. brrrr but it's wind chill 3 outside today which means the shop will be cold too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 what is 'anodized' aluminum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H. Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 That is a process that just makes the aluminum harder and less restistant to scratches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 Thanks Bill, so if I lightly sand and buff it, will I remove the anodization, making it easier to damage? Is it the surface layer only or all the way through the al stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Only surface, won't be more than a few microns thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Might be worth removing the trim and avoiding the masking issues...also...it would prevent sand grit/steel wool from getting into the drivers. Paint remover should work on the trim once you remove it....it's just screwed on. For the fiberglass....wonder which solvent would be fiberglass compatible...let me know if you cross this bridge...got any bug and tar remover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 The trim is glued and screwed, there is thick glue, like panel adhesive, that must be to keep the trim from buzzing. Taking it off and properly replacing it would be very time consuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Michael: before attempting any drastic measure like sandpaper, try some lacquer thinner on a rag. Be forewarned that this is an 'outside' job ( no pilot lights, smoking, fires etc... ) You also need personal protective gear like some nice thick nitrile gloves or PVC that are resistant to solvent. The rags you use are going to be flammable, I would put them in a steel container and burn them after you are done. A bit at a time, I am sure you will wipe that off, sandpaper will scratch the trim and wreck the finish. I have $ 10 that says they used cheap rattle can spray bombs and you can wipe it off with thinner. Use 'lacquer' thinner, not "paint thinner". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 CB is right, the anodization process is only on the surface of the aluminum. If you sand it off, any handling will leave your hands and clothes with gray marks. Just think of those colorful insulated aluminum mugs you can get at Starbuck's. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 Michael: before attempting any drastic measure like sandpaper, try some lacquer thinner on a rag. Be forewarned that this is an 'outside' job ( no pilot lights, smoking, fires etc... ) You also need personal protective gear like some nice thick nitrile gloves or PVC that are resistant to solvent. The rags you use are going to be flammable, I would put them in a steel container and burn them after you are done. A bit at a time, I am sure you will wipe that off, sandpaper will scratch the trim and wreck the finish. I have $ 10 that says they used cheap rattle can spray bombs and you can wipe it off with thinner. Use 'lacquer' thinner, not "paint thinner". Once again, Mr. Paint has not let me down. Bought a quart of lacquer thinner today. I tried a blue shop towel but it didnt' do the trick. Wet a corner of green ScotchBrite and voila- the paint comes right up. So I dampen a bit of trim (no more than 18" strip at a time), rub a few times with Scotchbrite to loosen the stuff, wet a blue shop towel and wipe the gunk up. In about an hour I got 1/2 the cabinet cleaned. Bad new is that I didn't use gloves so my right hand is a mess tonight, maybe it'll wear off. But the LaScala is cleaning up very nicely. Thanks for the tip Mr. Paint! [Y] Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 The skin on your will grow back...........after a while. Been there, done that. CB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL Sargent Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Lacquer thinner is the best cleaner/paint remover I have ever found. Literally blows acetone away for some scientific reason I have forgotton now. Autobody shop taught me about it 20yrs ago and I keep it around just for cleaning those stubborn problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 If the green scotchbrite isn't scratching the aluminum, you are golden. Solvent and those synthetic blue shop towels don't like each other, use a cotton rag, they work better. If you go to an autobody supply shop you can get white scotchbrite, that is fine enough for use on chrome and glass, it doesn't even mark OEM paint. Did you at least do that outside? [:S] Solvents are bad, protect your skin next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 I did it right by the big double shop doors, catches a good breeze through there. The trim has plenty of dings, my green pads were'nt causing any more damage, mostly a light touch to swirl the paint off, lifted right away with about 4-6 passes. I still have the face frame to do, will use cotton towels and gloves next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungkiman Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 For future reference, there are white pads that are more for polishing than abrading. They work well for stripping light paint, and don't leave any green residue that you have with the green pads and some of the chemicals on the market. Glad your project is going so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungkiman Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Never mind... Hurd is the word! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Lacquer thinner is the best cleaner/paint remover I have ever found. Literally blows acetone away for some scientific reason I have forgotton now. Maybe not a "scientific" reason but lacquer thinner contains Toluene which will dissolve just about anything, including brain tissue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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