ifonly Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Hello I have a set of chorus 2's. With a sony av521 driving them, when I first got them they seem to do real well, now they sound okay sometimes and sometimes the receiver goes into overload until you turn the volume down. The receiver gets fairly hot. I tried it with a similar receiver and it does the same thing. So my ? Is it the receiver under powered or the speakers. I know I don't have alot of info here but I don't know what info to give. The receiver says it is rated at 135wpc from 40-20,000hz. Sorry if I posted in the wrong spot, any help would be appreciated. Thank You Don't know much but I'd like to Learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MistaChy Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 well those are some pretty stout speakers... have you tried hooking simular or smaller speakers up to test if its the speakers causing the problem? from the way you make it sound, it seems like they are making the amplifier werk very hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 ifonly, Welcome to the forum and congrats on your Chorus II's. They are very nice speakers. The receiver is definitely not under powered. Chorus are very efficient speakers like all their Heritage brethren. I'm not sure what's going on there. I'd want to make sure that none of your speaker leads are touching each other, as in a short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Years ago, I ragged a 90 wpc Marantz on my Cornwalls. I'd suspect the receiver. I assume you are playing at not just "loud," but "very loud" volumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 That receiver was designed in a very cheap rack-mount system. 40-20,000Hz isn't even the full spectrum of sound. It was designed to power the Sony speakers that went with the system which weren't very difficult to power. How do you have them hooked up in the back of the receiver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifonly Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Yes I do sometimes try to shake the pictures off the walls....I will check the wires to make sure they are not shorted. I have them hooked to the front L/R speaker terminals.They are hooked up with 12g speaker wire I had to loose a few strand so they would fit in the terminals on the receiver side. I have the receiver set to 2 channel no surround. What is the full spectrum of sound? Do you recommend I go inside the speaker to make sure everything is good in there? Has far has any wires touching? Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 By "full spectrum," he means that yours starts at 40 hz, whereas the full spectrum is considered to start at 20 hz. That will not be the thing causing your problem. It just indicates it is not a high quality receiver. The odds of having to go inside your speaker should be slim to none, but if you really want to see and the access is easy, go ahead and check it out. I can't say I know what is supposed to happen if you have the speaker wires short (touch), but with standard 120v electricty, that would be deadly. So, I have a hard time thinking your system would even work if there was a short. I still think it's the receiver. You can drive it too hard easily enough. Whereas most speakers would not let you crank it as loud, the Chorus will let you keep turning up the volume - which, by your description, I am sure you are doing. I think you are finding the limit of your receiver. Do all of your speakers work? Have you put your ear up to each speaker (woofer, mid and tweeter) to confirm they are all working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifonly Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hello, I Think you hit it right on the head, I put my ear to all the drivers and it sounds like the tweeters are dead, I did run an app from my i phone thru the system and that is kinda when I think the problem started, because I remember the highs used to be ear shattering but not any more. Is there a way to test the tweeters? I have taken one out. Can I just touch a penlight AA battery to the leads? And if they are blown were do you recomend buying replacements. Thanks for all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theplummer Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 your tweeter diaphrams are most likely burnt. I had the same problem years ago when I was trying to overdrive a ADCOM 100wpc amp. I now use a Sunfire 450wpc amp and no problems. Believe it or not, it's your receiver that's clipping and causing damage to your speakers. You can buy new diaphrams from klipsch, their fairly cheap, and you can install them yourself with a screwdriver, if memory serves. Once repaired, do not overdrive that reciever, it is going into thermal overload, I guarantee it's clipping then and you need more clean power to accomplish your desire to drive the speakers hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Plummer's right. If you don't hear sound out of your tweeters, you blew them. That receiver is the perfect receiver for frying tweeters. I suggest you get the replacement tweeters as suggested. Not too expensive. You can also install in-line fuses. Ask via another post how you can do this. It's easy. It's just I don't know the fuse specs. Somebody can tell you what kind of fuses to buy (in terms of amps) and how to install them. That way, when you overdo it again, you'll likely only have to replace cheap fuses. Still, when you are ready, you might consider upgrading your power source (amp). Even a $250 dollar used amp like my Crown will do very, very well. Lots of choices in very good used amps out there. You are trying to push to much power out of the receiver you have. That's when it "clips" as referenced above. You need more power. It might be rated at 125 wpc, but I doubt it's really delivering that much. I bet it's clipping well before that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Oh.... The easiest way to test your tweeter is by listening to it. Put it back in. Play music at a very moderate volume. Cover the mid-range horn with a pillow, while you try and listen to see if anything is coming from the tweeter. That's what everyone else does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifonly Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I checked the tweeters like you said , and I don't hear anything, so I am going to order them from Klipsch 39.66 each magnet, horn and diaphragm. And I will track down those fuses. Will those fuses be for the whole speaker or just the tweeters? I am already looking for another power supply. So many choices,Once I get my new tweeters and overload protection will I be able to listen to them at a low to moderate level.? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 You should be able to enjoy your system as-is quite fine. It's when you crank it hard that you're going to have the problem. As to the fuses, these are just simple bus fuses you can go buy at Radio Shack or your local auto parts store. Don't get me lying about what to chose and where to install them. I recommend you start a new post that is titled "How Do I Install In-Line Fuses for My Speakers?" If you do that, there will be plenty of people who know and can answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifonly Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I will hopefully get the tweeters ordered in the next couple of days, I have already started to search the site for fuse info I found a cool document ....Dope from Hope .....Vol. 13,No.1 Jan.1973 From Paul W. Klipsch I can't figure out how to paste it , otherwise I would post the whole thing He pretty much says " Common sense will likely be better than fuses. If fuses give you a sense of security,(we recommend using a lamp fast blow, 2 amps. maximum)" I will continue to look and start that post. Thanks again today was a good day I now have direction........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 You're welcome. BTW: PWK seemed to use a bit of sarcasm to make a point. I've seen him make several points on the topic of his belief that there was no need to push his product to the limit. As for the real-life sense of security, I have witnessed a 50-cent fuse spare the tweeter on a Klipschorn twice. I'd do it if I was you. Alternatively, Klipsch makes something called a "zener diode," which is an attenuator (?) that works to the same purpose. No fuse, but it will not allow too much power to the tweeter. You might ask about them. I bought them when I blew the tweeter on my Cornwalls back in the '80's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Replacing the tweeter diaphragms is not a big deal. Easy enough diy project. No need to get new tweeters. ifonly you've got mail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Dee, say more on how to do that. I'd like to know. Have a bad tweet in my Corn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifonly Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I am also a big believer in fuses/circuit breakers/blow-offs....I will ask them (Klipsch) about the attenuator I checked that out on Wikipedia and it sounds good they said it dissipates amplitude, I will definitely put some sort of protection in there. I took the tweeter apart the voice coil seems intact, it is a little discolored in some areas.I believe Klipsch said the diaphragm alone was 30.99 and the whole tweeter was 39.99. So that is why I was thinking about replacing the whole tweeter. I will email Bob tomorrow to get his take on it. Thanks again guys have a good night.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 When I replaced mine, it was just a matter of taking out the screws on the magnet. The diaphragm has the actual voice coil wrapped around it. On mine, it was just a matter of taking the bad one out and dropping in (gently) the new one. Align the driver elements and put the screws back in. I do understand from Bob Crites that there is one version of the tweeter which requires solder to refurb, but I think those are the minority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I believe Klipsch said the diaphragm alone was 30.99 and the whole tweeter was 39.99. For that price difference, why not go all-new and not worry? Bob's tweeters are very good, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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