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Not satisfied with TV calibration...


lopezh

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Has anyone paif for an ISF tv calibration and not been happy with the results? I just had my Samsung Plama done and although I did watch it for the last two months on dynamic and standard, the new picture looks flad and almost faded. I can see a lot more detail in my grays meaning I was watching Iron man and the part where he is in the cave he was wearing dark slacks and was on dark sheets and you could tell the difference in shades. but that scene looks too gray to me. I know I should let my eyes get accustomed but I'm having a hard time adapting and am really tempted to hit the reset button. Additionally they technician messed with my receiver settings (at my request) and he changed my RC-10 center and my in wall R-5502 rears to "large". he said that will give me more midrange but it does't quire sound right. Im frustrated because now I have to run the microphone again and just was hoping to be done and fully satisfied with my system (sike) at least rest until the next fever comes along.

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Definitely set your speakers back to small.

As for calibration, most people are used to watching TV with settings way out of what they ideally should be, thus their eyes are accustomed to that.

Case in point, I have the detail, or sharpness setting on my HDTV at -25 now when I used to run it at +10 or more. I figured crank up the sharpness, crank up the image quality, right? Wrong.

I would give your eyes time to get accustomed to it.

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IMHO the sharpness adjustment has extremely little effect, almost none. The problem with the ISF is if you change the contrast or brightness you blow the whole deal. Set the dam thing to what you like and stop loosing sleep over it. I set mine to what I like and then ran the AVIA test disc and it checked almost perfect. No further adjustments needed. You should base your evaluations on live local news broadcasts and what you see on your BluRay or HD-DVD player, and even then you might have to cut back on the color adjustments for that player (each channel can be adusted separately) as sometimes they run real hot signals. Once you get it where you want it leave it alone unless you have an LCD with a backlight adjustment as over a years period of operation you might have to crank up the backlight.

JJK

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Thanks a lot guys.... I just had to vent. I am getting used to it somewhat as I don't notice it as much if I'm not looking for it. Still not sold but I am willing to give it a little time before I go and change the whole thing. JJKIZAK has a good point in that it should be set to my personal taste. If I can't get over it within a week or two I will just tweek it myself. My wife likes it better the way it looks like now and so it's going to be harder to change it after I sold her on spending the $$ to get it professionally done. I did switch my speakes back to small and I like it a lot better. I wish I knew more about audio to tweeki my sound better. Professionals are really expensive and I am so picky that I would have them there all day. I ran the Audessy mic and not completely happy with it. I want to set the reciever crossovers manually. I love and hate home audio! You guys rock for your helpfulness and input.

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Hey Lopez (odd typing that since it's my last name as well),

You might think about giving Audyssey a shot again. I've calibrated using Audyssey Pro on my Integra pre-pro and have found with both the built-in and the Pro versions that while it flattens out bass humps remarkably well, the result is 1 to 3dB low. So I go back and lift my levels by 2dB or so and that usually makes things perfect in my room.

Additionally, you should set your crossovers wherever you like provided it's not below your speakers' abilities to output. Audyssey just reports its findings to the Denon and the Denon chooses for you. Audyssey doesn't make the determination as to what is best. If it detects any of your speakers' -3dB point at lower than 40Hz it passes that info to the Denon which will select Large or Full Range for you. But going by the specs for your speakers, your starting point should be at 80Hz for your RF10s and 100Hz for your RC10. Those are both approximately 20Hz higher than your -3dB point per the specs and are a good starting point. Adjust to taste, but I wouldn't go lower than those numbers if they were my speakers or else I might have gaps in my frequency response between the mains and sub. Hmm.. your equipment list doesn't have a sub. Do you have one?

I have RF7s and still set my crossover point at 100Hz just because I have dual SVS subs and would rather have those amps taxing themselves than the amps on my RFs. I admit I'm at the upper limit, however.

Rick

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I ran the Audessy mic and not completely happy with it. I want to set the reciever crossovers manually. I love and hate home audio! You guys rock for your helpfulness and input.

Have you checked out the Audessy user guide that someone created and posted on AVSForum? The first time I did the Audessy set up it was just OK. After checking out the guide and following the recommendations it was much better. The main this is run the test pattern as many times as the receiver will let you, even if you are moving the mike a few inches around the main listening spot. The first time I think I ran it once for the main position and once for the secondary spot. The next time I ran it for all 8 spots using a grid in the central listening area. That and the tips for getting the sub right made a huge difference in sound!

Good Luck!

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How did I forget to add my sub to my list? Good catch and thanks for input Lopez and Chris in Vermont (never met anyone from Vermont). I actually have a KEF PSW 1150 sub. It's only an 8 inch but it shakes my house (i LOVE it) . I will run Audessy again and take a closer look as to the frequency ranges it sets and go from there. It's a learning process I need to get used to. Especially since I plan to grow my system (as my income can afford). I am considering the RF-7's (or something similar) as replacements to my towers one day. My Denon will get a long with that line right? Or are they too power hungry (Klipsch speakers usually aren't)

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Do you have any idea at what luminance (reference white) the calibrator set for your plasma? Much effort gets spent on whether to calibrate day and/or night modes. I've pretty much abandoned the day night issues as I do ISF calibrations. I use the SMPTE luminance spec for direct view displays of that size. Displays are getting much better at not clipping whites, so the SMPTE spec seems to hit a happy place; bright enough for the not so controlled day, but not overwhelming at night. This spec is what is used in telecine and broadcast (which are light controlled environments). You might ask your calibrator where he set that (in foot-lamberts). If he set it down in cinema/front projection territory (12 to 16 fL) you're going to be unhappy, and it will appear low on contrast, maybe even muddy unless you're sitting mighty close. The reason luminance specs differ between sizes of displays and envirionments is for many reasons, but the biggest reason has to do with how we perceive "brightness" and how much of the image occupies our vision. Big cinema-sized images are perceived a being quite bright at their spec because they are so large in our vision. A monitor display has a considerably higher luminance/white level spec.

With regards to audio...what AVR or AVC are you using (therefore what Audyssey product)? Audyssey will certainly advise almost all speakers be set no lower than 80Hz for several reasons, even when the calibration run indicates "large." It partly has to do with amp headroom preservation, but also for acoustic reasons, which ultimately are Audyssey processing capacity issues as well. The lower the frequency, the greater chance that the positions in which your LCRs have to be to create the proper front stage may not be acoustically nominal for low frequency response (below 80Hz). Audyssey MultEQ would like to have as much of its horsepower available to deal with the low frequency response of the sub(s) (which have the freedom to be located in an acoustically friendly location). If Audyssey has to deal with sub-80Hz acoustic issues with the LCRs, it has less left to deal with the low frequency processing for the subs. Since much of what Audyssey has to process is in the time domain, it is better for the sub to carry that content.

The Audyssey guide and thread on AVS are excellent.

Cheers

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" But going by the specs for your speakers, your starting point should be
at 80Hz for your RF10s and 100Hz for your RC10. Those are both
approximately 20Hz higher than your -3dB point per the specs and are a
good starting point. "

YES- exactly what I've been preaching for a couple of years!

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