Thoughts on wiring?

[Coytee]

Wondering what wiring I should install now (will probably also install some empty conduits for future use).

Basic layout of room is, the 'front' will hold 2 Jubilees and perhaps a single JubeScala and projection screen. Rear will have two LaScalas and more importantly, will be the location of all electronics.

So, we have a rectangular room. In front I've currently got:

2 pair of XLR wires buried in wall to each corner, in case I ever put XLR amps on that side of room. (I have yet to run 2 pair of XLR's to the center location)

2 pair of speaker wires buried in wall to each corner (I have yet to run 2 pair of speaker wires to center location)

The above will allow me to run "speaker wire" signal to the Jubilees with my amps on the back of the room OR, I'll be able to move XLR amps to the front side of the room and use those XLR wires and not use these inwalls.

I think that about covers those speakers.

1. What kind of wire(s) should I run to ceiling for possible projection unit? My understanding is "the future" is all digital and analog cables will be (or are) phased out of new goodies. Does a projector use HDMI type cables as well? Can you get those in various lengths (like 30 feet?) Should I run 2 of them?

2. If I use a projector, it would probably be nice to have a screen that will automatically deploy and retract. I know I'd need some kind of power up there, do they use 110 volt for that or do they run on a 12v type motor? (I have not even looked into these yet so I know zilch)

3. I really like the idea of having some light switches operate some plugs so I can walk into room, hit the switch and things turn on. I don't want to have to walk around the room powering amps, go to another side of room to power preamp or something like that... soooooooooo, what's out there that will allow me to trigger some outlets? I've already got my power in this room for my normal outlets. These 'audio' outlets will be on a seperate circuit so they'll be independent of the standard outlets. I will use normal outlets for these however, they might be a different color than the 'house outlets'.

4. I've got some 10-2 wire w/ground and I also have some 10-2w/g "UF" wire. I have had this wire for 10 years so it's not like I bought it recently. I don't think there would be any issues with using UF wire for indoor purposes??? If not, I'd already have enough 10g wire for a dedicated circuit.

In the realm of wiring....what else might I consider doing? Right now I'm in open stud walls and can do anything I want. I'd MUCH rather overkill it and put in things that I currently do not need, but might in the future. (Cat 5 to any of these locations??)

Sky is the limit and I'd rather do it once and do it right....

Thoughts?

[michael hurd]

Regarding the projector, there are a few different types of connectors on them, most have USB ( for computer usage ), either a DVI or HDMI connector, composite as well as VGA. Even if you don't plan on using a certain type of connector at the moment, I would plan for them. There are devices called 'baluns' that you can use with Cat-5 cables to make long cables. I have never used a 'balun', but have seen them.

This is an example: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=183-635

You need 2 of whatever type of 'balun' as well as a length of Cat-5 cable. Not inexpensive but can offer easier routing, as well as long distaces. ( ever try and fish a 4 pair RCA cable through conduit? ) [:S] That particular balun type is good for up to a thousand feet, some are good to over two thousand feet.

Long HDMI cables are available, here's a 50 foot example: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=181-735

I would run probably 2 HDMI cables, for expansion in the future. ( can also hook up to some laptops, as my Compaq has an HDMI output )

Powered USB extension cables are available, I have had two 16 foot lengths plugged together, no issues there. They must be a powered type for long distances. Why would you want USB? If you want to use a laptop or HTPC with your projector. XBMC ( X-Box Media Center ) software on a pc works well for integrating audio and video in a nice interface for your computer.

50 foot S-video cables are also available. RS-232 port... well I wouldn't worry too much about, unless you are willing to spend big bucks having everything programmed into a complete interface. ( think press 'watch movie' and projector comes on screen comes down, amps power up, dvd / blu ray player fires up, lights dim, popcorn machine comes on... LOL )

There are also wall plates available for a bit cleaner installation if you want, simply plug a cable on each side of the wall plate. ( they install in a standard receptacle box )

Don't forget the 120v outlet for the projector. []

I don't have a powered screen, so I am not privy to what they use for a motor... I am assuming that they either use a wall-wart with a step down transformer or a 120v motor geared down. Either way, you would need a 120v outlet there.

[Pete H]

I'll comment on the areas that I know about.

1. If you have the opportunity to run large conduit to your locations with future pull strings understanding that whatever you do, by the time your done, you will have thought about a better way to run, or a better location, or you want to use a different connection, it happens, especially at this level of a/v. It there is a way to run accessable chases that are decorative, that can be your conduit also.

2. 10/2 wire weather it's for direct burial or indoor, really doesn't matter, although working with direct burial is more of a pain, due to the insulation around the cable. That said, the size of the wire you run has to be matched to the breaker that it's tied into and the outlet that is powering, so that in the event that there's a surge, everything will trip as it's supposed to. If you run an outlet that's 15 amp to a breaker that's 20 amp with wire rated for 40 amp, that won't provide the proper protection and isn't the correct way to do it.

3. As far as what type of cables to use, use the best you can afford ( from a proven, what type transfers signal better rather than which is the most expensive gimmic out there, and I'm sure you already know that at the level your posts are at), and be happy with your decision and don't second guess what has satisfied your a/v needs to this point. There's always something bigger and better in everything.

IMO

[Pete H]

Forgot to mention that you can switch anything, but the same principles apply regarding the switch and the amount of draw on start up of the equipment controlled by the switch. Switching a power conditioner or good surge protector that multiple pieces of equipment can run into would make the most sense, decreasing the number of switches.

[Pete H]

Coytee, don't post something and then not keep up with it.[H]

[Coytee]

Coytee, don't post something and then not keep up with it

Heh... I've been wrestling with a pesky turntable. Needed a new mat on it and I needed to unscrew 3 screws to install it. Had a screwdriver here at work....but it (the blade) was too thick for the slot. Brought one from home.... drats, it too... was too big for the slot. I brought ANOTHER one from home and it TOO was too big for the slot. Knowing I had an even thinner one at home, I was out at electronic supply store the other day getting some more XLR wire... and went ahead and bought a thin screwdriver there, just so I could get this stupid platter fixed. Got back to office....yep.... too thick.

Ready to curse, I went back home, knowing I had a smaller screwdriver (actually two). I was looking for the black tipped one but...found the other and brought it in today. Yep... too thick.

Not really believing this was happening, I finally said... well...I won't tell you what I really said. I finally grabbed the platter and TOOK it to Home Depot with me so I could fit a screwdriver to it.

I jump in my car...drive the several miles to the store and get to the door...platter in hand....

I forgot my wallet, leaving it at the office.

I might add, this was done over the course of a week. I live about 25 miles from work.

someone shoot me, please.

[rmlowz]

Hello Coytee,

Give me a call if you wish, I can help you with your design, as you know this is what I do for a living. It would be a lot easier over the phone.

Thanks,

Rich 512-627-3727

[mark1101]

Since it is a basement I would use a suspended ceiling and run everything overhead.........fishing down the walls to outlets. This way wiring can be added or changed easily whenever you want.

[Coytee]

Rich, very nice offer... might take you up on that. Ok to perhaps call Thrusday evening? If not, I'm taking Friday off...that possible?

Mark: suspended ceiling.... clearly you don't know my wife! I thought of the same thing and she punted that faster than the Cincinnati Bengals did last season. (I was going to say since the Bulldogs did when they played Tennessee.... but that was too personal) lol

[Pete H]

Im F*&ing LMAO over the screwdriver story. That's just way to funny that you took your gear to the store to buy a screw driver. I will make the trip and come help you do this if you have all the supplies and are ready, I want to hear your gear anyway and it's a good excuse for a road trip. I'm serious about the offer, so if you want to get this done, lets plan a time for after the first of the year and GET ERRRR DONE!!!!!!!![<)]

[Coytee]

I will make the trip and come help you do this if you have all the supplies and are ready

1. Be careful for that which you offer....for I might just accept [6]

2. Not sure what supplies you refer to... wires? Might be done (unless you're an electrician [li]) I've run 2 XLR's, 2 RG6, 2 pair 12g speaker wires and plan on running 2 pair of RCA's to my far corners and center. I've since heard I might want to run some Cat5/6 as well.

Where do you live?

Regarding the screwdriver story... I actually left a humiliating part out... I have a black tipped screwdriver here. I'm convinced that it would work. Not once but twice... when I was here looking for a screwdriver, I specifically thought of this black tipped screwdriver. Each time I found one that I thought would work. Interstingly, the SECOND time I came home to get one, I said I was specifically going to find the black tipped.... and didn't when I stumbled across this other one that looked good enough.

Ultimately, more than one of these screwdrivers would have worked however, it seems over the years, someone had buggered up the slot on the screw so I ended up having to go a size smaller to make it work. While at work, I had one that was probably two sizes to small... and simply bent the blade tip of the screwdriver.

This little platter mat has been a thorn in my hiney however.... all is well as I got it fixed finally. Another cool thing... I guess some of these turntables coast for a while (Thorens TD124). The last few days while I've been tinkering on it, it would coast to a stop in about 45 seconds. I've read that they should take over a minute.

Today, I took the base of the spindle apart, cleaned most everything (won't say everything because I didn't have some Q-tip type things, to try to clean the cylinder. Anyways.... let table run for while, turned off while looking at second hand.... almost 90 seconds!!! [Y]

Edit: to be clear... You are MORE than welcome to come by for a jam session without me mooching on any above mentioned help items. If you're nearby, weekdays can work as well as weekends.... I usually (read: always) try to work it around my wife working so she doesn't have to put up with some of these shenannagains. meaning, I try to coincide someones visit to her being gone. Then it's not so rude if we decide to pep it up a bit.

[Kriton]

Hey Coy!

You know I am very close to you, if you need a screw driver, just shoot me an e-mail and will be there man!

B