garyeanderson Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Clamps removed and motorboard flipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 looks like your having a blast..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 looks like your having a blast..... Well I am relearning how to swear at myself. I'm ready, I'm ready, I'm ready, I'm ready - right, got the glue on, OH ca ca #%^^$ get the paper towels, warm water, clean, turn over more glue, try again! (smile thingy goes here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Never enough clamps, I didn't want to get the 3 foot I bar clamps out yet so I used what I had and I think it's ok. The ports seemed to be about a degree out of plumb so at 6:30 I was out cutting some blocks to stuff the ports with to square them up. So far so good, I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 When I blocked the ports to square them up, it blocked the access to clean up the glue squeeze out so I had to pick it up and stand it on the other end. The upside down bench seemed to work nicely as I cleaned out the port squeeze out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 The top goes on first before the bottom for the next one, bar clamps arn't grabing much but seem to get the job done. Had another *&%* momen, lifted the face veneer tapping the top forward toward the face of the motorboard. More glue and a clamp - oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 I had to fix some issues with the top, Flushed up, itwas not. The top was flush about half way across the front and my face wasbowed and the top ended being back about a 1/32 of an inch, more *&% and Ithought about it for a while. After dinner last night I got the heat gun outand pulled off the edge band on the front face. I really didn't want to do sobut the more I thought about it, I knew it had to be done or it would look justlike the other two I did last winter. So I took some more iron on edge band andtapered the end with a sanding block and applied it to the "lowsection". I then installed a full length piece and ironed them together.Not sure how it would look the whole time. When finished it looked pretty goodand I felt good enough that the next step could start. This morning I startedon fitting the side. I guess Its a rock and a hard place, either know that itall fits before hand or wrestle it and with the glue getting all over me andthe outside of the cab. It finally fit pretty nice and to keep the glue rain off,I taped and papered off the outside and then just taped off the inside with thetape folded in half to form a glue trough. The moment of truth cane andcouldn't put it off any longer and started to spread the glue. I set one cornerat the top front with a clamp and then the bottom front next. I finished offabout 8am took some pictures of the inside just to make sure I wasn't missingany glue and found about 3 drips. Now when I pull off the clamps, paper, andtape in a couple hours I will find out how I did. I'll just have to wait andsee... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 taped off inside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Outside taped and papered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Out of clamps and I rigged the last one to get a seconf across the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Getting closer, some more cleats and the back and I'll be on to the next, If I built a dozen, I would have it figured out (smile) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Front view. Looks ok but I know where the skeletons are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Getting closer, some more cleats and the back and I'll be on to the next, If I built a dozen, I would have it figured out (smile) can I ask what the purpose of this twin holed baffle is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Hi Schu The two holes in the Baltic birch is extra bracing to stiffen the cabinet.It ties the side’s front and Back together and is a place to mount the verticalbrace that the back is screwed to. I finished cutting the internal cleats andhave dry fitted them. Time to get more glue on things. So far 17 1 1/4 inch screws and 6 1 1/4 finish nails is all of the fasteners used to this point, the back will get another 24 - 2 inch screws. Should be pretty stiff by then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 stiff... I'd say indestructible. very nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Gary, Have you ever used Pocket Screws..? It would certainly eliminate a lot of the clamping/cleats and mis-alignment. Possibly your clamping that much may be pulling the "Box" out of square or cause bowing in areas that you are not expecting. In building the Jubilees and many other cabinets, the pocket screws allow for dry fitting and virtually eliminate clamping. Just a thought............ W. C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Hi W. C. I have certainly concidered it but there is a problem, I am broke and out of work. The parts were already cut and edge banded from last winter when I did the first two and laying in a pile. The mahogany plywood was $10 a sheet (more damaged goods) that if perfect would have cost $150 to $200 for the both sides good 4 x10 sheets. I found another half sheet for $20 that was fairly close. The backs were more craigslist buys, 13mm baltic birch that was laminated last winter to make a 1 inch thick panel, 2 more sheets at $15 each. I guess I have about $100 into the 4 cabs. I learned some more yesterday about my clamping method in that I had the jaws of the clamps to far so it was applying presure to the panel to far inboard lifting the edge away causing a gap. I am not sure that any method would produce better results as the panels were not flat. This is more of something to get me though the winter and relieve the cabin fever. Its been the nicest winter I can remember but its still winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Gary, I understand that you had to work with what you had. The nice thing about the pocket screws is, it allows you to make minor adjustments and will let you "bend" any warps out, to align the pieces. It will eliminate the cleats and after alighment, gluing is a breeze. The thing about clamping is, if the parts are not perfectly square, the clamps will apply uneven pressure, magnifying the warps. I understand the cost issue, but for 50 or so dollars, you can purchase the jig and bit. I was not a believer either until I tried it and I am TOTALLY sold on how it makes joining pieces together as easy as could be imagined, and it forgives mistakes. The DRY fitting proceedure is a must in aligning the parts. I have a Biscuit Cutter that is laying in the tool box collecting dust. I am now using my clamps to do any final adjustments prior to screwing and gluing. The Dry Fit feature of using the Pocket screws allows you to hide/blend any minor mistakes that have been made. What you have done so far looks GREAT and you will get much enjoyment from your accomplishments. JMO.....W. C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Hi W.C. I had a pair of KlipschCornwall’s and only built these as that appeared to be the best use of what Ihad to work with. Fork lift damage was why these 4 x 10 sheets were put asideseveral years ago at a cabinet company. I would have rather built some otherspeakers but looking at the plywood I couldn’t get the panels I wanted to cutfor the MWM clone bins I wanted to build. I settled on these corn clonesinstead. I knew I would screw up on the first one built and did; the second oneis better but still sows ear quality. I had enough to build 3 when I first cutthe panels out and had originally cut the backs out of the mahogany. A craigslistad had someone selling two cutoffs (about a half a sheet total) so for the $20I went and picked it up, the 2 backs became two motorboards and the backs weremade from Baltic birch that I already had at that point. At this point a 4thcabinet came into being. I guess I was looking to build a perfect sow’s ear. Myflush is flush on most of the joined panels and is a bit better than a 1/64thon the top where its not (several inches), probably better than I though itwould come out. Certainly better than last year’s model, a piece of maskingtape may be thicker than my worst area. I am not claiming that the methods I amusing/learning are good or best but working with what I have at hand for thestated reason of no money and lots of time. Last year I looked at the Kreg toolwhen I was picking up the edge banding. I didn’t buy it as that $50 went to geta nice spiral up cut router bit to do the woofer holes. I was really pleasedwith it and had no issues (bought the circle cutter too at the same time). Ihad enough confidence in the new router bit after that I went flush as I didn’tknow what horns I would be using and thought I would just rout the holes for hornlater and flush would allow that. The plywood was notflat, both sides are both bowed about 3/32 of an inch in the same direction. The front has been squared true by the motorboard, the backsbeing open are not, so more games to play today, I should probably rip thebacks again but I think the belt sander is going to come out instead and justtaper the inside edge on the offending area on the one side where theinterference is. I drew out the jubilee bass bin before I built the lascalabins and did the math and just said no as the expense added up too quickly.Seems you are having fun and learning a lot, I am glad you are doing all of thehard work and measuring as it may be a future project for me if things improvefor me. thanks for your input, I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 I got the back fitted yesterday and its been set aside to start on the 4th clone. Things went pretty well and I might have learned a bit from the last one. I'll see how things go from here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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