DizRotus Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 Thanks DizRotus and Peter. All the connections seem fine...nothing is loose. Everything is sauterized (spelling?), even where the wires connect to the driver...is this normal? And, since everything is welded together, where is the appropriate place to unhook the wires from the driver so I can swap them? If you're saying that all connections at the balancing network are soldered, that's not normal. It would also probably be the source of the bad connection that is preventing continuity.Could you take a picture of the newtork? The attached photo shows a network that is similar. but not identical. to yours. Note the vast majority of the connections are mechanical (screwed not soldered). The same should be true on yours. You should be able to locate the mid (squawker) leads on the barrier strip and disconnect them to place a battery between the leads to do the scratch test. Prior to disconnecting any of the wires label them with tape and take photos so you can return the wires to the appropriate locations. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 OK. The battery trick worked...static came from the squawker when I completed the circuit. So I know the driver is good. The connections on the crossover ARE soldered, but they are soldered on both the good and bad speaker. I double and triple checked for loose connections, and couldn't find anything. I'll try to post my pic of the crossover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 Here's pics of the speakers, now that I know how to post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 And the other. The little guys next to them aremy CF-2s that will be taking the role of center speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 Poorly soldered connections can appear to be physically tight, but still be electrically bad. It's definitely likely that one or more of the soldered connections is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 2/18/2004 I am assuming you got it worked out by now? [] Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 And the HF fuse on the side woofer acess panel connection plate???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Do your networks look like this? Are they AK-3s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Do your networks look like this? Are they AK-3s? Yes, AK-3 networks. And good catch on the date stamp on the pic Dave...I need to reset the date stamp! How do I check the fuses? Does a bad one look different than a good one? Sorry for being a complete moron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 "How do I check the fuses? Does a bad one look different than a good one? Sorry for being a complete moron." take the HF fuse out. use a ohm meter set to ohms low range. check the fuse for full swing to zero ohms. if the meter does not move....you have a blown fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 I ended up cutting the wires to the driver (they were soldered as well) and testing it with an ohm meter. 0. Bad driver. I tried the battery test again with it disconnected from the network, and no static sound as well. At least now I know it is the driver. On a side note, now my #$%@ receiver isn't producing sound. The lights work, and I know it is receiving a signal, but the speakers don't work, the earphone jack doesn't work, and even the sub from the pre-amp out doesn't work. So now, no sound from any speakers!! And no, it is not on mute! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingBullWinkle Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 If there is a bright side at least you have them home and able to work on them. I have had mine over 3 weeks now and they are still waiting their turn at the refinish shop..I also have the all solder cross overs with the monster wire. Not sure if they work or not I have new A-4500Hz to install once I get them home.If you want the old AK's there yours for the cost of shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingBullWinkle Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 So now, no sound from any speakers!! And no, it is not on mute! Ouch. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 So now, no sound from any speakers!! And no, it is not on mute! Ouch. No Kidding. Just when I get the Khorn problem isolated, something gets messed up on my receiver. I have had this Marantz for 10+ years with no issues, never driven hard, and not even used that frequently lately. At least I think I know it is not the amps or receiving the signals that is wrong...it is something in the pre/pro section. A used SR7000 is probably ~$100 - $200, and that is probably how much it would cost to fix mine. I guess that justifies spending a lot on a whole new separates setup right? BUT the Khorns blew my audio budget for the next decade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Something is not right. I am not convinced that you are actually measuring things correctly. When you measure across the leads on the driver. It should either measure a few to several Ohms or it sould measure open. It should not measure 0 Ohms (not very likely). If it did read 0 resisatance then the amp output would "see" a short and the amplifier outputs would be damaged or destroyed, if you hooked it up that way. However you also said the driver (or something) made a sound when you did the battery test (BTW, it is safest only to do this test on woofers). This does not add up. I would have jumped in earlier, but you posted the same question on two different threads and a few folks ended up wasting their time because of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 Tom - I wouldn't be surprised if I wasn't measuring things correctly, but I think I am. I had the multi meter set to the "omega" symbol (for Ohm's), and had a lead attached to both sides of the driver connections. The result was as it I was holding the leads in the air, not touching anything (Bob Crites indicated that this is an "infinite" reading, so perhaps my terminology of 0 is wrong)). When I touch the leads together, they fluctuate, but settle at 0.2 (or so), and when I touch a 60W incandescent bulb, I got 15.5 or so. I checked w/ Bob Crites, and he seems to think it is an open voice coil. On the battery test, I think it may have been the tweeter that must have made the sound, since at that point, it was still connected to the crossover network. Once disconnected, the battery test did NOT work. Thanks for chiming in. I am no expert, and the more people I hear from, the more I learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Tom - I wouldn't be surprised if I wasn't measuring things correctly, but I think I am. I ABC, this is why I suggested the "can't fail" boom box or whatever known good music source test. If you isolate the driver and connect two hot leads from a music source and it doesn't do anything at all, you KNOW it's not good. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Dave: I am not sure we understood what was, or was not, isolated when the test was made. ABC: You are right "open" and "0" are very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave Bona Cornwall Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 this is why I suggested the "can't fail" boom box or whatever known good music source test. If you isolate the driver and connect two hot leads from a music source and it doesn't do anything at all, you KNOW it's not good. I did do this test before I cut the wires (forgot to mention that). The source hooked directly to the squawker led to sound from the tweeter and woofer (by sending source material to them via the crossover), but nothing from the squawker. That's when I decided I should go ahead and cut the wires to the squawker. My receiver was already dead at that point, so I used a little philips cd player w/ speaker outputs and spare wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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