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Refoaming DONE!!! Woo Hoo!


Ironsave

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Ok.....

I am waiting for my new surrounds to arrive. (Tomorrow or Thurs).

The voice coil clearance is very tight on these, so I NEED to remove the center dust caps to use the shims.......

I seek the best way to do this without damaging the woofer, and also am hoping to save the center caps, as I may need to reuse them. (Depends on the new ones supplied).

I am almost thinking of cutting a smaller hole in the center to access the voice coil, but this is a last resort...... (I would then just reglue the new caps on top of the old).

These are paper woofers and my goal is to keep them as nice looking as possible and not damage them with water, etc....... All ideas and suggestions welcome.

Also, is there a good solvent to use to completely remove the tackiness, or am I good just removing the foam as best as possible (good old friction)?

Again, it is paper and I prefer not to risk damage......

Thanks in advance, Guys (and Gals).

HELP! [:D]

post-14727-1381965962254_thumb.jpg

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I only have experience doing one pair, they were baby advents (paper cones) which has a smaller dust cover. There shouldn't be any difference, if it were me I would remove the dust cover and use the shims. the dust covers supplied when I did this were a perfect match and after they they were glued on you couldn't tell it was done.

I was worried when I did mine, but with a new sharp razor knife blade you will have no problems. After I was done I realized how easy it really was and how important the shims were, it's really easy to do just take your time.

The glue they supplied was a white rather thin glue that dried clear, if it's the same type you get it does give you plenty time to work with it before it dries.

Overall the whole thing was easier than I had thought and you couldn't tell it was ever done.

You can do it, just follow the directions, which are simple.

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Thanks for the reply.

I did a set of KG 5.2 12" woofers before. They were polypropelyne, not paper; so that is my biggest concern, is cutting/ tearing the paper while removing the center cap.

The glue supplied was also white and dried clear; it is almost like elmers glue.

I think I will go to the hobby shop and get an exacto knife......

Thanks again.

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I think I will go to the hobby shop and get an exacto knife......

Good idea, exacto knife,I was trying to think of that name on the last post, it's easier to control. The paper dust cover I cut out cut pretty good, I was worried about the cut, the material was actually a little tougher than expected. I guess it has to be considering all the vibrations back and forth.

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The refoam kits I have used had good directions. I always use shims. A sharp exacto or razor blade is a must for carefully cutting out the dust cap. I think that glue IS elmers wood glue. It's fun to bring an old pair of speakers back to life.

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Yeah, what sucks; is 10-15 years from now, I may be refoaming again.......

(I intend to keep these for awhile).

I wanted to find comparable butyl rubber surrounds; but it was discouraged as the weight and properties are different.

Anyway..... hook up day is coming! [H]

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You can buy siliconized acrylic latex sealant at your home hardware supply. This can be thinned with water all you need is about 50/50 (water and sealant) then brush a thin layer onto your foam surround (both sides). You may want to do a couple of layers to seal the foam, it should look smooth. This will seal out oxygen (in the air) which is what breaks down the foam. They should last near as long as a butyl surround. Cheap easy and effective. This is also great for really old foam surrounds which are already breaking down and getting weak, you would require a couple of extra coats to build the old foam back up to as new stength. Hope this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

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"I wanted to find comparable butyl rubber surrounds; but it was discouraged as the weight and properties are different."

The midrange will sound quite different. I would be reluctant on a 10" two-way where the woofer has to cover so much of the midrange.

"You can buy siliconized acrylic latex sealant at your home hardware supply"

Weldbond is a good brand name.

The newer (current) foam edges will last much longer than the early foams. First generation got hard and cracked after 6~8 years, second generation rotted after 10~12 years, third generation ?

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Nice job Matt they look good. How long for the glue to "thoroughly" dry?

Thanks Cliff. The glue should be dry after 24 hours.

I have to rearrange the bedroom to do this; so I am likely looking at Friday evening or Saturday sometime.

I also ordered the foam rings that mount above the outer rim of the surrounds. (This will clean up the appearance significantly).

I will say I am impressed with the construction of the cabinets; in particular the ports and how they are installed.

(Just tapping the woofers produces bass..... kinda cool)....

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