Question regarding speaker cabinent finishes for the Forte II?

[Bluehusky]

I am attempting to create a HT with Forte II's. I bought new in 1990 a pair of Forte II, made in May of 1990, the tag says the finish is: OO. I realize OO stands for Oiled Oak. I am in the process of considering purchasing a second pair of Forte II's that were made in 1993. Its the tag says the finish is: Oak CLR #19.

Does anyone know if Oiled Oak and Oak Clr #19 are the same or at least match in appearance? Or how close in finish will they be, my wife and I prefer to have them match.

If you have any expierence or aware of any articles that may provide me information please share as soon as you can. The Forte II's I am considering maybe sold quick. I do not want to purchase unless I have some confidence that they will look good in the same room. The room is 14' x 20', so the speakers will be seen in either corner. Thank you in advance for your help/knowledge.

All the best, Jeff

[oldtimer]

Oak clear is very different from oiled oak. Clear is a clear varnish finish as opposed to an oiled finish. It is lighter and more "modern" looking compared to the traditional oiled look. The oiled finish will blend better with traditional finished furniture while oak clear will look more at home with "blond" modern finished furniture.

[Bluehusky]

Thank you for your reply and information. Is it insane for me to try using steel wood or very fine sand paper to remove the varnish? Then wipe them with oil, Wacco or other product, any guess if that would help them match or at least not seem so different? Or should I relax and wait until a Oiled Oak pair becomes available.

Again thank you.

[oldtimer]

Finish gets into the grain of the veneer. Results will vary because of that. Remember you are not dealing with solid wood which can eventually sand down. Sand the veneer too much and you have nothing.

[oldtimer]

I will add that a pro could probably do it right since they have the experience and materials, but the money spent would probably buy another pair of fortes, or close enough anyway.

[dtel]

It may also depend on where and how they were taken care of ?

Having both the Oak oil and Oak clear from 5' you can't tell the difference, I only oil about once or twice a year. They are the same shade of Oak and even side by side I have to read the label to be sure.

Now you have to realize they are over 20 years old and I have no idea if one pair was exposed to more sunlight or if the oiled pair were ever oiled before I got them, or anything about them really ?

The OO does not change much after oiling and very light oiling is all that's needed for them. I compare them to the MWM Oak bass bins I made, I stained them the shade i wanted and just oiled them. They really soaked up the oil compared to the Forte's, but they have only been oiled 3 times and use much less oil every time I did it, but it was new wood also.

[Groomlakearea51]

Careful application of lacquer thinner will remove the clear coat. To get a better match, you should also clean the OO's as well with the lacquer thinner. Then both with min spirits, and allow to dry. Then both with #600 grit and a random orbital sander, very lightly of course sanding in the direction of the grain. Clean with min spirits a couple times, then oil to both and they will pretty much be identical.

[WMcD]

The description of CLR #17 makes me think of lacquer rather than varnish. So I'm siding with Groomslake.

Lacquer will disolve with lacquer thinner. Nail polish remover (acetone) will also work. Nail polish is a form of lacquer.

I use non-scratch ScotchBrite

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=Scotchbrite&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1 These will not scratch the wood when used with a little care.

I'd put some thinner or remover in a small bowl and use the Scotchbirte to wash off the lacquer as if you were washing a car, but don't flood the surface. I have not seen veneer loosened but son't soak it. Mask what you can. Go with the grain. You should use a fresh helping of thinner to give a final rinse and wipe with a cloth..

I don't know if there is a wood filler on the veneer but I suspect not.

I recommend a wipe on varnish to finish.

You must do the work with thinner / remover outdoors. Use rubber gloves. The vapors are very flammable and you don't want to breath them. I guess the safest thing is to use an organic respirator.

WMcD

[oldtimer]

Ah yes I knew it was lacquer but blankly said varnish. My bad.

[oldtimer]

It may also depend on where and how they were taken care of ?

Having both the Oak oil and Oak clear from 5' you can't tell the difference, I only oil about once or twice a year. They are the same shade of Oak and even side by side I have to read the label to be sure.

Now you have to realize they are over 20 years old and I have no idea if one pair was exposed to more sunlight or if the oiled pair were ever oiled before I got them, or anything about them really ?

The OO does not change much after oiling and very light oiling is all that's needed for them. I compare them to the MWM Oak bass bins I made, I stained them the shade i wanted and just oiled them. They really soaked up the oil compared to the Forte's, but they have only been oiled 3 times and use much less oil every time I did it, but it was new wood also.

There is a huge difference with mine dtel (remember, the ones you picked up for me), So much so that my wife expresses a preference for the oil over the clear in our current situation.

[dtel]

I remember, I think those look just like mine, but in better shape than mine. Tuscaloosa Alabama If I remember correctly, then to Hope Ar and back down to Texas with Travis.