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Klipschorn woofer


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Hi, I have a pair of vintage klipschorn speakers. They around 25 years old. Last night one of the woofers stopped working. It wasn't a fuse or my amp. I took apart the enclosure. I connected the leads of the speakers directly to the woofer and i heard the faint sound of music but nothing from the woofer although the crossover was still connected because it was soldered to the terminals. Then I connected the speaker wires directly to another speaker and there was sound. I was told that rarely do the crossovers go on these and if this test produced no sound then the woofer needs to be replaced. Can anyone verify this and help me out? I love these speakers and owned them from brand new. They are the oiled oak models and they don't sell these anymore. Thanks

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Just curious...How often do these woofers let go? What was powering them?

I have a vintage Adcom gfp-555 pre amp and a Adcom gfa-555 power amp. Everything I purchased brand new many years ago. The Klipschorns I also purchased in 1989 and everything is original. I use the system quite a bit.

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You could have a broken spider lead on the woofer or + or - tab that is shorting on something.  That's weird to have a woofer go out.  They are pretty reasonably priced through Crites



Unhook the wires to the woofer from the lower Caps.  then hook up you speaker wire from the amp and you should get a solid signal.  If not, it may be gone.

Edited by Max2
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If the woofer does not have continuity, remove the dustcsap with an exacto knife, leave an 1/8" ridge. Check for continuity at the ferrules. Replace the tinsel leads as required.


Posted by djk on 04 March 2014 - 08:25 PM in 2-Channel Home Audio

Old tinsel leads frequently fail, a speaker repair shop can replace these without a re-cone.


Eminence and CTS drivers can be repaired by the average person that can solder and glue. You will need soldering tools, solder, tinsel lead, new dust-cap, and glue.


Posted by djk on 08 November 2012 - 04:10 PM in Technical/Modifications


Blow up the pdf and look at the terminals.

They actually don't solder it, it's crimped. You can't do this with the old terminal style, but you can duplicate the rest.


The problem with soldering to the eyelet is that the solder wicks down the tinsel lead and that is where it usually goes open at (or at the ferrule under the dustcap). If you run it through the eyelet and solder it on the side terminal it won't wick down to the part that flexes. Don't forget the Weldbond dot on the eyelet.

The new tinsel lead should never be soldered to the eylet.

Insted, run it through the eyelet, then run it over to the side tab and solder. Then put a drop of Weldbond on the eyelet.


This is how Eminence does it now, it's much better.



Remove the dustcap. The models I have custom made use a 4-1/2" felt dustcap that I trim off using an exacto knife leaving about a 1/8" ridge on the cone. The replacement dustcap glues right on top of this ridge perfectly. Buy new dustcaps.

Dig the ferrule out of the adhesive holding it to the cone. Split the ferrule with a pair of dykes and carefully remove from the voice-coil lead-out wire. Carefully scrape the insulation off this wire with your exacto knife for about 1/4" or so. Tin. Check and see that you have coil continuity. If you do, proceed. If you don't, re-cone. Do both leads, even though only one is probably bad.
Replace the tinsel leads. Run a bit extra and trim the excess at the frame when ready. I use two of the old thin style twisted together, it seems to have less 'flopping' than just one. Run through the hole in the cone. Bend the tinned wire into a 'U'. Crimp it around the new tinsel leads with a pair of needle-nose. Solder with 4% silver solder. Glue this connection down to the cone with epoxy (I sometimes use Goop). Build up a meniscus (little cone) of Weldbond on the tinsel leads right where they go through the cone. Do the same where the tinsel lead goes through the flag on the frame. Crimp the tinsel lean to the flag. I solder this too.
Glue the new duscap on with Weldbond. I set a small roll of tape on it for some weight.
Take your time, the first one you do may take an hour.
In the USA, the tinsel lead and dustcap are less than $2. If needed, a re-cone kit for a Delta series woofer in the USA is only about $15.





Edited by djk
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You could have it repaired.....buy new replacement..... buy new better replacement . I bought Crites better  cast woofers I am very happy with and sold my originals to forum member that wanted originals for his K-Horns. But do make sure it is not something easy to fix first. Can you post some pics of the spider area? Rick

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Not everyone has $300 for a new pair of woofers, but they can usually dig up $10 or so for repair parts.


"Can you post some pics of the spider area"


You need a shot of the tinsel leads, not the spider, and a shot under the dustcap.


Since the woofer measures open, just remove the dustcap as described above and see for yourself.

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