Eddie 500 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 If anyone is looking to freshen up their Khorns or other speakers I can recommend this product. It puts a nice matte finish on the wood and really looks great with minimal effort, (Granted my khorns were in nice shape but just a bit "dull" looking) Sand with "0000" steel wool (with the grain) then use a tack cloth to get the dust off. ApplyWatco Rejuv Oil with a rag and rub in gently. It dries quickly and has a very slight odor. So far I've put 2 coats on. Each coat takes about 2 minutes to apply to each speaker. Well worth the 10 bucks!!!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Yup, it's what I use on my speakers. Good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkane Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Make sure there are no steel wool particles embedded anywhere. They will rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 More information on the stuff can be found: http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/rejuvenating-oil It appears to me that the stuff will build a finish and so I'd say it is a form of wiping varnish. I've read comments that the product is what is used at the factory but I'm not sure we've gotten confirmation from an official source. There was also comments that Birchwood Casey was used at the factory. Building a finish is unlike the often used lemon oil. If your application rag dries stiff, I'd say that is something which builds a finish. The classic technique is to put a streak of the product on a piece of glass and let it dry. Then you'll have a dry film corresponding to what you're putting on your wood. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 I used to use Watco and Davis put me on to Old English Lemon Oil. It doesnt seem to leave the buildup and makes the speakers pop Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I like the idea of building a finish. It makes me think I'm adding a layer of protection. I can always strip it off. But, you are supposed to wipe the speakers down thoroughly after application. I used this stuff on my Khorns to remove a water mark from a glass. Using the steel wool and a liberal amount of the oil I applied slight pressure and just kept going back and forth with the grain. Water mark is gone and the finish looks like new! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Use a very thin application after shaking the container gently (to stir in the solids but avoid bubbles). Wipe excess after 10 minutes. A thick coat will get gummy, and more Watco can be used to thin and remove any excess application. it's the rubbing that really brings the shine and beauty of the wood. Stephen Phillips Senior Tech used to say - oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. That's a bunch of coats, but you get the general idea. Don't expect a quick once-over to give you the depth of finish that you can achieve with a multiple step process. Elbow grease guys. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie 500 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Yes, the elbow grease is the key. So far, two coats looks really great. I wanted to get a good base and in the future use the Frombys Lemon Oil to freshen if need be. But this multiple coat process that Colter suggests sounds pretty good also. I may give it a try. THIN coats. Its soooooo easy to work with and the rags have not gotten stiff either. They look damn good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) 50/50 of BLO and Watco natural danish oil gets stunning results over using either one by them selves. BLO has to be done and left out in the garage for some time where the watco can be brought in right away. BLO smell, not good Edited March 18, 2015 by Budman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad500cad Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Will Watco Rejuvinating Oil darken the the wood? I used Watco natural (the name escapes me now) and it darkened the Forte II, not happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCB1725 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Will Watco Rejuvinating Oil darken the the wood? I used Watco natural (the name escapes me now) and it darkened the Forte II, not happy. Rejuvenating Oil is basically Linseed Oil...a tiny bit of Varnish...and Paint Thinner/Naptha. The other Oils in the Watco Family contain Linseed Oil...a tiny bit of Varnish...Vegetable Oil...and Paint Thinner/Naptha. Their line of "stain colored Oils " have oil pigments/analine powders/ etc.....to achieve the " color " . Any oil will to a degree change the color of the wood. The Rejuvenating Oil since it contains no vegetable oil ( V.O. acts like a color reducer ) will be a bit darker. Because its called " Rejuvenating " its darker to hide/minimize/fill in any minute scratches. Of course if you have deeper scratches that really penetrate the wood...an oil will only do so much to remedy the scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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