av receiver

[wvu80]

The internet has become an excellent tool for all and does anyone know what the most asked question to Klipsch CS is?

 

Pointing to any Klipsch speaker, I would go with "and how much does that cost?" 

Edited June 21, 2015 by wvu80

[Zen Traveler]

 

The internet has become an excellent tool for all and does anyone know what the most asked question to Klipsch CS is?

 

Pointing to any Klipsch speaker, I would go with "how much does that cost?" 

 

 

Nope. Anyone else?

Edited June 21, 2015 by tkdamerica

[Scrappydue]

The internet has become an excellent tool for all and does anyone know what the most asked question to Klipsch CS is?

Pointing to any Klipsch speaker, I would go with "how much does that cost?"

Nope. Anyone else?

which receiver?!?

[Zen Traveler]

“What is the best home theater receiver I can buy for my Klipsch speakers?” That might be the most-asked question our customer service and social media teams field on a day-to-day basis.

 

which receiver?!?

 

 

Yep!

 

“What is the best home theater receiver I can buy for my Klipsch speakers?” That might be the most-asked question our customer service and social media teams field on a day-to-day basis.

 

Now can anyone discern what the answer is from this:  http://www.klipsch.com/blog/how-to-buy-the-best-home-theater-receiver/

Edited June 21, 2015 by tkdamerica

[willland]

Yep!   “What is the best home theater receiver I can buy for my Klipsch speakers?” That might be the most-asked question our customer service and social media teams field on a day-to-day basis.   Now can anyone discern what the answer is from this:  http://www.klipsch.c...ater-receiver/

 

Still can't be answered accurately because on unknown variables.  There are good, and there are better, but best is too subjective to determine.   

 

Bill

[Zen Traveler]

 

Yep!   “What is the best home theater receiver I can buy for my Klipsch speakers?” That might be the most-asked question our customer service and social media teams field on a day-to-day basis.   Now can anyone discern what the answer is from this:  http://www.klipsch.c...ater-receiver/

 

Still can't be answered accurately because on unknown variables.  There are good, and there are better, but best is too subjective to determine.   

 

Bill

 

 

Honestly, that link actually had some very precise thoughts on how to go about determining what you need but it changed from the days it was posted to what it says today--I understand why it was edited because I think it gave the wrong impression.

[Zen Traveler]

Here is something that someone posted on another Forum that seemed to make sense:

 

http://www.psbspeakers.com/articles/...Specifications

With this in mind, it is most important to understand the specifications of a loudspeaker, so that you can better gauge where your audition time will be best spent.

While many consumers today look first at the “Power Handling” spec of a speaker, this is actually not an important consideration at all. The two most important specifications (and often the least understood) are the Nominal Impedance and Sensitivity Ratings. PSB Speakers takes the Sensitivity Rating a step further by including the Voltage Sensitivity Rating.

Sensitivity
Sensitivity is most easily defined as the speakers’ ability to effectively convert power into sound. The traditional way of measuring a speakers’ sensitivity is using the standard of 1 watt/1 meter. Meaning a microphone is placed 1 meter away from the speaker to measure the sound output (in decibels) with 1 watt of sound played through it.

There is much room for error (or imposed error) with this type of measuring system and some manufacturers today take advantage of this.

Voltage Sensitivity
Because today’s solid state amplifiers do a good job across the board of maintaining a voltage output of 2.83 volts, many companies consider this as their standard of measurement. Here again, 2.83 volts are inputted and measured at 1 meter. [Note: 2.83 volts into an 8 ohm load is equal to 1 watt. Ohm’s Law: Power (watts) = Voltage (V) x Current (I) or Power = V_/R (impedance in Ohms)]


"While many consumers today look first at the “Power Handling” spec of a speaker, this is actually not an important consideration at all."

[willland]

"While many consumers today look first at the “Power Handling” spec of a speaker, this is actually not an important consideration at all."

 

Funny thing is I have never looked at power handling(RMS) in a speaker to determine anything.  I guess with higher efficiency speakers like Klipsch it is almost a moot point when most of us will never see(hear) much over 100watts continuous with our Klipsch speakers.

 

Bill

Edited June 21, 2015 by willland

[Zen Traveler]

 

"While many consumers today look first at the “Power Handling” spec of a speaker, this is actually not an important consideration at all."

 

Funny thing is I have never looked at power handling(RMS) in a speaker to determine anything.  I guess with higher efficiency speakers like Klipsch it is almost a mute point when most of us will never see(hear) much over 100watts continuous with our Klipsch speakers.

 

Bill

 

You should have seen what it said (Klipsch link) before it was edited. {Note: It made it seem like RMS was a very important factor and included a formula for picking out an AVR using that number.}

 

EDIT: I understand why it was edited and that language taken out.

Edited June 21, 2015 by tkdamerica

[gadgtfreek]

Im from a school of more RMS power the better.

 

It's hard for people to accept the concept of "headroom" and musical transients require power. Granted most folks do not push speakers to reference volume for movies (105db for speakers and 115db for subs) but I do.

 

Many would tell me dual rythmiks are overkill but I have proven that even they can't do 115db across the response when asked (in my room). Id actually need three but I can't fit a third.

Edited June 21, 2015 by gadgtfreek

[Zen Traveler]

Im from a school of more RMS power the better.

 

It's hard for people to accept the concept of "headroom" and musical transients require power. Granted most folks do not push speakers to reference volume for movies (105db for speakers and 115db for subs) but I do.

 

 

 

I also listen at/near Reference Level after Audyssey calibration. Most people who have been in this hobby for any length of time understand Headroom. Insofar as your interpretation of RMS power and how it relates to speakers--do you have a link describing why more is better?

Edited June 21, 2015 by tkdamerica

[willland]

Im from a school of more RMS power the better.

 

If you mean for amps, integrateds, receivers, then I am totally with you.  Though some amps/AVRs like those designed by NAD are as much about dynamic power(peak) as they are RMS power.

 

Bill

[wvu80]

 

 

The internet has become an excellent tool for all and does anyone know what the most asked question to Klipsch CS is?

 

Pointing to any Klipsch speaker, I would go with "how much does that cost?" 

 

 

Nope. Anyone else?

 

 Foul!  I misread the question! 

 

I thought you meant CES, the Consumer Electronic Show. 

 

If you meant "customer service" you should have said so. 

/dumb comment

 

What I've always wondered is if the speaker says "RMS power 10-100" (for instance) does that mean you need a 100 watt amp to drive the speaker to its potential?  Or do you use a 150 w amp so it has dynamic headroom?

Edited June 21, 2015 by wvu80

[Zen Traveler]

 

Im from a school of more RMS power the better.

 

If you mean for amps, integrateds, receivers, then I am totally with you.  Though some amps/AVRs like those designed by NAD are as much about dynamic power(peak) as they are RMS power.

 

Bill

 

 

I understand that generally an external amp is going to provide more power to lower impedance loads, but after it hits that threshold at the SPL you want to listen, then it won't be any better SQ-wise than an AVR unless you hear distortion...It seems most amps are built better than most AVRs but otoh, why buy gobs of power that you won't ever use?

[Zen Traveler]

 

What I've always wondered is if the speaker says "RMS power 10-100" (for instance) does that mean you need a 100 watt amp to drive the speaker to its potential?  Or do you use a 150 w amp so it has dynamic headroom?

 

 

I believe the lower number is meaningless and the higher number is when you have a chance of destroying the voice coil of the speaker.

Edited June 21, 2015 by tkdamerica

[Scrappydue]

Im from a school of more RMS power the better.

It's hard for people to accept the concept of "headroom" and musical transients require power. Granted most folks do not push speakers to reference volume for movies (105db for speakers and 115db for subs) but I do.

Many would tell me dual rythmiks are overkill but I have proven that even they can't do 115db across the response when asked (in my room). Id actually need three but I can't fit a third.

didnt you say you run your subs 10 hot though? I hear you say you listen to reference all the time. And I have no doubt you listen loud but I've seen you post your numbers a ton lately and all your posts about hitting around 115 with subs hot to me equates to 10 below reference. If you are actually watching at 0 on the main volume and your subs really are 10db hot you should be seeing 125 db on your meters. Which is tough act to do. Especially in a large room. I've been in theaters with 8-10 18's and they have issues playing certain (not all) scenes at reference levels with subs 10db hot. I'm just saying something isn't adding up

[willland]

I understand that generally an external amp is going to provide more power to lower impedance loads, but after it hits that threshold at the SPL you want to listen, then it won't be any better SQ-wise than an AVR unless you hear distortion...It seems most amps are built better than most AVRs but otoh, why buy gobs of power that you won't ever use?

 

 

That may not be a completely accurate statement.  Remember most AVR's compromise(cut costs) in their amp sections and that includes the flagship models.  Better quality parts and designs usually equals better performing pieces of gear and that's not even mentioning longevity of that said gear.  Dynamic peaks is one area an amp or AVR can show it's true colors and the more headroom the amp has an easier time it will have with those peaks(transients) which equates to better sound quality during those peaks.

 

This article and video is pretty spot on in my opinion.

 

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/connecting-an-external-amp-to-a-receiver

 

Bill

[gadgtfreek]

Scrappy,  I am running my subs set to 75db with a -40dbfs tone, which is reference (115db). Its hard to run 115db from 20hz to 120hz in a room so large. I set my mains and center to 75db with a -30dbfs tone, or 105db. So 0.0 volume on the Marantz should yield 105 db for speakers and 115 for the LFE channel(peak), and I have seen as much with REW. I generally watch movies at -2.0 to 0.0.

 

I did at one time run subs at 8-10db hot from what Audyssey set(because I did not have an accurate way of testing, I just felt it was low). What I have found consistently is XT32 sets subs -5db low, or 70db with a -40dbfs tone in my room. So in the past I technically ran them 5db hot, but I do not anymore. I set speakers and subs with proper tones so they are 105db and 115db, and have been very happy with the result. Some of the droning I heard in the subs with deep voices is gone, and I think it was there because I had the subs 5db hot. FYI, I use the spears and munsil 2nd edition bluray that has both -30dbfs tones for speakers and -40dbfs tones for subs to set them at 75db with reference level volume.

 

Level checking behind Audyssey is one of the reasons I bought a verified SPL meter. Regardless of what Audyssey tells you, that cheap mic does not set sub level well IMHO.

Edited June 22, 2015 by gadgtfreek

[Zen Traveler]

I can't

 

 

I understand that generally an external amp is going to provide more power to lower impedance loads, but after it hits that threshold at the SPL you want to listen, then it won't be any better SQ-wise than an AVR unless you hear distortion...It seems most amps are built better than most AVRs but otoh, why buy gobs of power that you won't ever use?

 

 

That may not be a completely accurate statement.  Remember most AVR's compromise(cut costs) in their amp sections and that includes the flagship models.  Better quality parts and designs usually equals better performing pieces of gear and that's not even mentioning longevity of that said gear.  Dynamic peaks is one area an amp or AVR can show it's true colors and the more headroom the amp has an easier time it will have with those peaks(transients) which equates to better sound quality during those peaks.

 

This article and video is pretty spot on in my opinion.

 

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/connecting-an-external-amp-to-a-receiver

 

Bill

 

Thanks for posting that but don't see where it contradicted what I said. I didn't watch the video but agree that external amps generally have better parts that may or may not help drive the RF-7IIs better...If you hear clipping then you need to change power sources.

[Zen Traveler]

For those interested here are a couple of threads posted on AVS: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/1532635-would-i-benefit-external-amp.html and http://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/2038306-how-do-companies-rate-speak.html