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2 rsw 10s or 1 rsw 15


cdsang

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ok, i know the svs vs klipsch sub war. i am not trying to continue this. i just wanna know, what would sound better, 2 rsw-10s or 1 rsw 15. condersing 2 10s would cost 100 bucks more then one 15 where i live. also, it seems out of the 3 subs that the 12 is best value.

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stop messing around and get the RSW-15! the RSW-12 and 10 are for little boy toy's who haven't learned to shave yet. The RSW-15 would out preform the 10 by going deeper, plus, it would move move air than the 10's. I don't know how much amplifier power difference makes here, but the RSW-15 will definatly be more dynamic.

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New music system:

2.1 using SF-2's (soon to be RF-7's), and an RSW-15. for amplification Mcintosh MC02105, B&K PT-3 preamp, Sony SACD player. pioneer turntable.

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Just to confuse matters...there is a benefit to using two subs instead of one. With a single sub, there are big peaks and troughs in bass output that are a result of standing waves in the room. This is why you can listen from one seat and hear lots of bass but when you move a couple of feet away, you might hear something like 12 dB less bass (at some given frequency). Using dual subs diminishes the peak to trough ratio by filling in the troughs. Result is more even bass performance throughout the room.

Best of both worlds? Buy 2 RSW-15's ;-)

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i am more of a music person, but i would like to have a system ready for movies as well. i think 3 rsw-15s are over kill considering my rf-3iis rattle my door quiet well. i was mainly looking for low frequency then db, but i say 2 10s so you have a smoother bass respone, but the 15 will go lower and louder then one 10 but might not be as smooth as 10s. would mixing 2 be a bad idea. like get a 15 now and something smaller later. well thank you for you answers thou.

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reducing standing waves w/ 2 subs involves placement apart. putting the subs together in the optimal spot will provide more output. so its a trade-off there between bass quality vs quantity. in general.

2 subs or their placement won't get you lower as in extension. so then its a matter of finding a sub that'll do the best lower. flat to 20hz w/ good output would be the min i'd want for music & ht use.

as far as standing waves, they can be avoided well w/ bass mgmt in most cases. such as making sure the sub & speaks aren't overlapping too much in the same range. such as what we keep seeing on here w/ processors using

a fixed 80hz crossover.

they get big speaks like say the rf-7. they're large speaks so of course should be set on large. trouble is the sub then overlaps w/ them all the way to 80hz=> standing waves. so then we have big speaks being set to small so they're cut beginning at 80hz. well, then why did they need big speaks? cwm25.gif

the solution is an adjustable crossover in the processor. drop it to 40-50hz then the sub & big speaks blend where they should. helps to have some good power to drive the speaks down lower too.

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My Home Systems Page

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Boa, I think you are confusing standing waves with multiple source constructive/destructive interference.

When two or more speakers producing the same signal interact there will be contructive/destructive interference to some degree. If the same signals meet 180 degrees out of phase they will completely cancel each other. If the same signals meet exactly in phase then will double their amplitude. And in between there will be varing degrees of cancelation or summing.

Standing waves can not occur between two sources. A standing wave happens when the wave length of a frequency being played (or a factor of its' wave length) match a room dimension. In this situation when the wave reflects of a bondary it will sum with itself (peak) or cancel itself (null).

Also an 80hz crossover point with the RF7 would be fine. Crossovers aren't brick walls. It's a good thing for the speaker to have a flat response to an octave below the crossover point (at 80hz that would be down to 40hz). Unless you have THX certified speakers and processor (then the speaker has a built in 2nd order roll off that is supposed to sum with the 2nd order hp filter in the bass management that will then match the 4th order low pass filter on the sub). The names choosen for the settings were very bad choices given the male ego. If people could just get past the names and understand what was going on they would see that setting big towers to the "small" setting doesn't waste anything and allows you to get the most out of them.

The rest of what you've said is pretty much right on. Putting two subs as close as possible together will result in a 6dB increase in headroom. Placing two subs in different places in the room will not get you anywhere near a 6dB increase in headroom. But if done correctly (and this is very difficult to get right) they can interact in a way that will reduce the effects of standing waves. Done wrong this can makes the overall response much worse. Personally though, I'd go for the 6dB increase in headroom, play with placement until I have minimized nulls and use a parametric EQ to tame any peaks.

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dustin, sorry i was being general. you're right the interference is what causes the "muddy" bass many get w/ the fronts (large) & the sub covering the same 40-80hz. but it can affect the intensity of the standing wave too. iow, the peak can be more intense resulting in more uneven freq response. agree, though its the room that creates it. but too much being thrown into an overlap intensifies it too. guess all i'm saying is an adjustable cross allows for a better blend & more even bass response. better overall bass quality.

i have nothing against an 80hz crossover. its just that big speaks aren't optimized w/ it. might as well get rb-5 or 3 than rf-7, f.e. cost/benefit.

i finally settled on a b&k that allows for 5hz increment adjustments & 3 dif choices for slopes for both high & low pass. i have cornwalls & klf-30 as well as a velo hgs-18. & 200WX7 for the amp.

believe, i've tweaked to high heaven. Smile.gif & i can tell you absolutely, w/ my room & set-up, there is a marked dif dropping the cross from 80hz to 50hz. & that's w/ even w/ a velo hgs-18 that can do real well to 80hz & above some. i have a peak at 50hz that i drop 5db w/ the built-in notch filter.

as most will tell you i'm picky. Smile.gif but for me the adjustability of the crossover is just what this bass-hound needed. better quality bass w/ no loss of quantity.

btw, i'd do like you & go for the output from 2 subs together (probably corner loaded, stacked). but don't have to worry about that w/ my limited spece, for now. Wink.gif the adjustability of the cross in the dsp has been a godsend w/ my room. w/ the notch filter too, i can get great overall bass quality & still plenty of quantity from the velo - down lower where it should be.

cwm35.gif

next upgrade - a bigger, better room. need a basement. Smile.gif

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My Home Systems Page

This message has been edited by boa12 on 09-10-2002 at 09:50 PM

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