willland Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 I always thought if your AVR has a single transformer/power supply, then you would be adding nothing to the fronts if you bi-amped with rear surrounds. Now an AVR like my NAD T773 with it's dual toroidal transformers, just might offer some improvement with it's unused rear surround channels. Not sure of this but it does make logical sense. Bill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 With the SC 99, and out board amp is used in bi-amping. In the Elite avr's the amps are discrete and assignable and will have different processing specific to it's function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 i don't know HOW but my SC-LX701 thread has been combined into this thread. Derrick, i had to run the setup with the mic first in order to get mine to work in manual. so far i'm happy thanks for your help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 There's more to bi-amping in this case (Pioneer w/ MCACC). With the LF and HF split, the DSP is free to adjust delay to compensate for splitting of the filter network (ie. removing the jumpers). You paid for it, so I'd say use it. You'll hear the difference after you re-run MCACC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jd1 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 You can bi amp the speakers with an elite receiver. Not sure of the newer models but I have an older elite sc-79 and you can bi amp a lot of different configurations. On my model you have to go into the setup menu and choose your speaker set up. It's here where you can see your bi amp options. I can bi amp left front the center and the right front. I had talked to pioneer when I first purchased this receiver and the listed ratings are false as far as all channels driven. It will do the 150x2 but when all channels are driven it puts out a total of 850 watts. So in a 5.1 you would be using 8 channels and that gives you roughly 95 watts a channel. I've noticed a slight difference but not much because you are still really only at the rms ratings for the speakers. I will be upgrading soon to the emotiva or outlaw amps and a new receiver or processor and this is where you can truly start to get gobs of power to push the speakers to there potential. Hope this helps you out. You won't be over driving your amp in the pioneer so don't worry about that because it's basically the same as running 8-9 speakers versus the 5. If you want to do atoms well that's another topic altogether. I have not gotten that far yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 4 hours ago, Quiet_Hollow said: There's more to bi-amping in this case (Pioneer w/ MCACC). With the LF and HF split, the DSP is free to adjust delay to compensate for splitting of the filter network (ie. removing the jumpers). You paid for it, so I'd say use it. You'll hear the difference after you re-run MCACC. Now that you ran MCACC Full, you can run Manual MCACC in 3 positions. Next, Advanced EQ and set the time position to 30-50 ms and hit yes for STANDING WAVE MULTI-P. This will ask for 3 mic positions. I run the first 2 ft from the MLP to the right, then 2 to left of MLP and the 3rd at the MLP. The 3 positions will give the best overall room response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeakers Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 On 1/24/2017 at 7:34 PM, derrickdj1 said: I was looking at the links Maher. I can't find a hint of what WVU was talking about. In the Onkyo, the XO can be adjusted to the Hi vs LF driver. The Pioneers don't have anything like that. The speaker can be bi-wired or bi-amp(passive). To bi-wire, leave the jumpers on the speaker. You can run a set of wire from the HF and LF or two wires from either the HF or LF driver. The key is the jumper stays on. To bi-wire, remove the jumper and connect HF driver to extra amp on AVR. I think you meant to say to bi-amp leave the jumpers in place, and to bi-wire remove the jumpers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 15 hours ago, Ihatespeakers said: I think you meant to say to bi-amp leave the jumpers in place, and to bi-wire remove the jumpers. Nope. You remove the jumpers in either case. BTW, you're answering a thread that's over three years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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