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Carlosrs

RF-83 and dual RSW-10D pairing?

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Hello, just asking more knowledgeable minds before I start moving stuff around.  Would a pair of RSW-10Ds work well with RF-83 towers, strictly for a 2 channel music setup? 

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The quick answer is "yes" because every system, even for music, can benefit from a sub or two.

+++

 

Do you have the subs or are you going to buy the subs?  I have 10, 12 and 15" subs.  My DIY sealed 15" works great with music.

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I actually have 2 RSW-10Ds, just wondering about how beneficial it would be to use them with the RF83, which produce lots of bass, rated at 29htz. The subs are rated down to 24htz and I thought they could add a little richness to lower lows! Not a basshead or anything, and I don't listen to lots of R&B, rap or electronic music.

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11 minutes ago, Carlosrs said:

I actually have 2 RSW-10Ds, just wondering about how beneficial it would be to use them with the RF83, which produce lots of bass,

Those RSW-10d's have 500 watt plate amps.  By using the subs the RF-83 does not have to use its woofer in the lowest register which is what uses most of the power.  This leaves more power for more dynamics and better articulation in the mid-bass.

 

You will find the speakers will appear to have more bass when used with the subs, you won't actually hear the subs themselves.  A lot of people like the 10" size for music thinking it's "quicker" and not as boomy.

 

I also have the RF-83's with an RC-64.  You are right the RF-83's don't NEED a sub, but they benefit from a sub if that makes any sense.  I was running a Klipsch 12" RW-12d sub in 3.1 until recently when I took the sub out of the rotation and sent it to my son, who blew up the last Dayton Audio 10" sub I sent him.  The 3.0 setup works fine for me for 95% TV watching.

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1 hour ago, Carlosrs said:

Hello, just asking more knowledgeable minds before I start moving stuff around.  Would a pair of RSW-10Ds work well with RF-83 towers, strictly for a 2 channel music setup? 

Absolutely.

 

I have a Revel B15(MSRP $3200.00), SVS SB13 Plus(MSRP $1200.00), dual RT-10d(MSRP $1599.00), and an RSW-10d(MSRP $1199.00) and even though all are excellent subwoofers in their own right, the RSW-10d is the most "musical".  I had it paired with my RF-63s for a few years and the combination for music was incredible, not so great for HT in my 5000ft> family room.

 

Bill

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I currently have them paired with RF-63 in a home theater 5.2 setup, with a Sunfire Ultimate Receiver., and they sound absolutely fabulous!! For HT I believe I could get maybe 2 SVS and use the RSW-10D in the 2 channel setup with the RF83.

 

I would not be able to bass manage the RF-83 and would leave them running full range.  Hooked up to a Sunfire Vacuum Tube Preamp, a Sunfire 300 two amp. The highs are hooked up to current source output which resembles tube-like sound, and the LF to the voltage source for the bass control.

 

I will give it a try this weekend and see how it goes!!

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8 minutes ago, Carlosrs said:

I currently have them paired with RF-63 in a home theater 5.2 setup, with a Sunfire Ultimate Receiver., and they sound absolutely fabulous!! For HT I believe I could get maybe 2 SVS and use the RSW-10D in the 2 channel setup with the RF83.

Have you considered moving the RF-83s into the HT and the 63s for 2.1 stereo with the RSW-10ds?

You would get a bit more "bigness"(presence) with the 83s and believe me the 63's do excel with stereo music.

 

Bill

 

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That actually sounds like a great idea!!! I have a Sunfire Cinema Grand amp that will paire great with the 83's for HT.

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I finally tried my dual RSW-10d's with the RF-83's in my 2 channel setup, the difference was negligible. When the subs were on it had a little more presence and dug a little deeper.  But when I turned them off, the still copious amount of bass from the rf-83's was more than adequate and i did not feel I was missing anything, and this was done with many different tracks.  The sound coming from the subs off was more "together" than with the subs on, however, I attribute this to not having them properly setup. The difference was so minimal that I was not willing to put the time into getting them just right.

The sub matching tools suggest HUGE subs for these speakers, at least SVS and Rel's do!! In REL's I had to use comparable speakers because they don't have this model available. Do the RF-83's need bigger subs than these to make a important difference to their already adequate bass??

 

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1 hour ago, Carlosrs said:

Do the RF-83's need bigger subs than these to make a important difference to their already adequate bass??

 

I would not say that they "need" it but should benefit more with a pair of 12" or larger but do believe that sub/subs should be of at least the quality of the RSW10d.  Look for a pair of RSW12 or RSW15 and I guarantee either will enhance the low end of either your 63's or 83's.

 

Bill

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I agree, they really don't need a sub, but they could benefit.  I am just looking for that little extra that I haven't lost, since I have never heard it in my music setup. Perfectly happy with it now, but that upgrade bug is a *****.  

 

I will keep the RSW-10D's with the RF-63's, which I have setup properly, do benefit in an appreciable manner with them and I absolutely love that combination.

 

I will try the bigger subs you suggest with the 83's and see how it goes, maybe SVS or REL too.

 

Thank you for all your input!!

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Before the sub was added, we didn't know what we're missing. Take the sub away, then we know.

It will take some work off the AVR or amp.

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On 3/23/2018 at 10:18 AM, wvu80 said:

My DIY sealed 15" works great with music

Hi @wvu80 ... yes; got the Dayton Audio 15" subwoofer as you recommended. Substituted the "HF" driver as it seems better for the box size and more "musical." Just finished it (OK; needs a couple more coats of Danish Oil) and trying to tune it with the Dayton SA-1000 amp. 

  

So to @Carlosrs... don't think you can go wrong with an 15 or 18" sub from Dayton Audio ... and save $1000. :D 

Cheers, Emile

 

 

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1 hour ago, Emile said:

Hi @wvu80 ... yes; got the Dayton Audio 15" subwoofer as you recommended. Substituted the "HF" driver as it seems better for the box size and more "musical."

I think you will find that HF driver will dig deeper and can handle more power than the HO. 

 

In either case whichever one you have, that is the one you get used to!  B)

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2 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

I think you will find that HF driver will dig deeper and can handle more power than the HO

Yeah; think the HO driver is better suited for car audio (and a smaller box). Love the HF version ... testing it right now :D BTW ... your T-nuts from Parts-Express were an absolute pain in the azz ... but after multiple attempts they were absolutely the best :D 

Cheers, Emile

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5 minutes ago, Emile said:

BTW ... your T-nuts from Parts-Express were an absolute pain in the azz ..

Did you get the 6 prong or the 4 prong?  And did you pre-drill the holes through the driver, or did you mark the holes and then drill?

 

Lastly, did you put the t-nuts in the front or the back of the MDF baffle?

 

I think you had your procedure pretty well figured out.  I was a novice when I did mine and the 6 prong Tnuts installed easily the first time.

 

 

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:D got the 6-prong ones ... predrilled size of bolts through the "cover" and 1/4 inch through the bottom plate  ... and put PL glue on them.  Last one :( spun :(  Yes; (stupidly) did not wait for the PL glue to set :(  Was able to fix it and turned out just GREAT! Thanks!

Cheers, Emile

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15 minutes ago, Emile said:

predrilled size of bolts through the "cover" and 1/4 inch through the bottom plate 

You pre-drilled through the front AND back?  Or are you saying that since the front baffle is 3/4" MDF and the box is 3/4 MDF, you drilled a single 1 1/2 long hole with a 1/4" drill bit?  Were your bolts 1/4?

 

I think I used 10/32, and the 1/4" would be too large for the bolt.  I used a "dummy" bolt to cinch all the tnuts down, then didn't use that bolt.  I used new ones to actually mount the driver.  That 6 prong should have dug at least 5 prongs into the MDF, no glue is needed.

 

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2 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

You pre-drilled through the front AND back? 

Drilled the front exactly the same size as the bolts you recommended .don't recall the size, but slightly smaller then the 1/4 inch for the t-nuts. Drilled "that" size through the front plate. Then used 1/4 inch through the "back" and tightened the t-nuts using the "back" plate only. Was not impressed by the t-nuts ... cut one prong off all of them and also had to "straighten" most of the "prongs."  :( Last bolt did not catch the t-nuts correctly :( ... it "turned/turned/turned." Got lucky and got it out :)  Reglued it and waited till it was dry :) Put soap on the bolts and ... PERFECT!

Thanks for your excellent recommendations!

Cheers, Emile :) 

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