Navest Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 Hi @ngen33r, Hope you had a great vacation. I appreciate what you do for all the klipsch sub owners. I the mean time I found the values of the resistors. The R16 one is 10 ohm and the other is 2.2k ohm. Thank you anyway. I hope you can help me with another question. I removed all the caps and resistors and will replacing them. I also removed all the glue. In the proces I noticed one copper leads/trace is broken probably because of the cap which was broken (leaking?). I have attached a picture. Would you be able to tell me where this trace goes or how to fix/bypass this? That would be amazing! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBass Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Hello @ngen33r! Thank you for sharing so much great information about these repairs. My R-115SW started intermittently cutting out more and more frequently, so I watched several of your repair videos and prepared to order a new resister and caps from DigiKey for a full recap. Imagine my surprise when I opened up the sub and found that it already had a giant 10W resister from the factory! I don't see any evidence of overheating on the resister or any of the caps. Any suggestions on what could cause it to intermittently cut out (complete loss of volume) for a few seconds at a time and then go back to regular volume? The cut-outs seem to have gotten more and more frequent to the point that it is no longer usable. I have not observed any distortion or clipping or other symptoms. My first choice would be to sent it to you for repair, but it looks like you must be backed up enough that you are not accepting repairs, so I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction to do it myself. (I do have electronics repair background and tools, so the desoldering and resoldering is no problem.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoZis Posted November 19, 2021 Share Posted November 19, 2021 Hello, Had tried to repair my R-112SW At C19 the Conductor path is broken up to the back (positive side of capacitor) and I can't see where it ends on my board. I would like to solder a wire to repair it. Here is a picture of a board (not mine), can you please mark the point where C19 should connected to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 4 hours ago, RoZis said: Hello, Had tried to repair my R-112SW At C19 the Conductor path is broken up to the back (positive side of capacitor) and I can't see where it ends on my board. I would like to solder a wire to repair it. Here is a picture of a board (not mine), can you please mark the point where C19 should connected to? I will try to get this to you tonight. In the mean time clean off all that brown glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 On 11/17/2021 at 7:25 AM, AlphaBass said: Hello @ngen33r! Thank you for sharing so much great information about these repairs. My R-115SW started intermittently cutting out more and more frequently, so I watched several of your repair videos and prepared to order a new resister and caps from DigiKey for a full recap. Imagine my surprise when I opened up the sub and found that it already had a giant 10W resister from the factory! I don't see any evidence of overheating on the resister or any of the caps. Any suggestions on what could cause it to intermittently cut out (complete loss of volume) for a few seconds at a time and then go back to regular volume? The cut-outs seem to have gotten more and more frequent to the point that it is no longer usable. I have not observed any distortion or clipping or other symptoms. My first choice would be to sent it to you for repair, but it looks like you must be backed up enough that you are not accepting repairs, so I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction to do it myself. (I do have electronics repair background and tools, so the desoldering and resoldering is no problem.) The large resistors to not solve the problem. This was a poor cheap attempt to fix the issue. The problem is the heat from those resistors dry out the cheap caps. The plus is that version does NOT need the glue cleaned off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoZis Posted November 19, 2021 Share Posted November 19, 2021 50 minutes ago, ngen33r said: I will try to get this to you tonight. In the mean time clean off all that brown glue. Thank you. Picture is not mine, mine is already clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVALOS Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 On 10/21/2021 at 6:50 PM, ngen33r said: A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed. Hi everyone, @ngen33r I did the full replacement of all capacitors on the PCB below (old picture) on my R115SW, also replaced the transistor. No change at all, green light ON, still no sound, completely quiet. Even when I plug or unplug the RCA cinch cable, no noise at all from the speaker. The speaker is good I tested it. You talked about the PWM IC that may have failed. Do you have more information ? Where is this PWM IC located on the board ? Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainbeefheart Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 On 11/19/2021 at 10:06 AM, RoZis said: Hello, Had tried to repair my R-112SW At C19 the Conductor path is broken up to the back (positive side of capacitor) and I can't see where it ends on my board. I would like to solder a wire to repair it. Here is a picture of a board (not mine), can you please mark the point where C19 should connected to? Just scrape off the thin top insulation material on that trace until you see shiny copper, a razor works well. Clean and tin the trace, the pad side that has lifted off try and leave it where it is. Now clip off some 1/2 watt resistor leads and shape one end into a circle the same size as the pad where the cap lead goes through and have the resistor lead long enough to lay onto the newly tinned trace. Next solder it all together and you now have a repaired trace. I have had to do this so many times because of people trying to do repairs themselves with poor soldering skills. Removing components from boards is much harder than installing them so usually when noobs try and remove parts they use way too much heat and don't have the proper methods or tools so pads get lifted off when removing components. I almost never have to run wires because often the trace goes to several places so you have to run several wires, I find it easier and best just to repair the bad pad and solder to the trace further down under the insulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoZis Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 Yes, I did it this way. To be honest, it was not easy for me, even though my soldering experience is not that bad. My circuit board became porous due to the resistor being too hot. The trace of C19 came loose up to behind ZD6. I tinned it and made a good connection to C19 with a thin wire. Soldering eye was not possible for me, everything was much too tight. 112SW works again, that's the main thing 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPRTN Posted November 24, 2021 Share Posted November 24, 2021 Hello, I have a Klipsch R-112SW that was left on and eventually failed. I was unaware it was left on. I tried to play audio one day and heard a pulsating tick coming from the woofer. The ticks are about a second apart. I unplugged the woofer and pulled the amp out. I am assuming the same resistor and caps are possibly cooked. Visually the R39 is cooked. What would you guys recommend replacing in this case besides R39? I will try to attach pictures if it will let me (new member). I do have soldering skills but the components I solder are much smaller than this. I usually work underneath a microscope. Thanks for all your help and hopefully I can get this woofer back in action. Has anyone compared the "revised" amps to see what Klipsch did to correct this from happening. I see them for sale for about $200 for the revised amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcoratti Posted November 24, 2021 Share Posted November 24, 2021 Nice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoZis Posted November 26, 2021 Share Posted November 26, 2021 On 11/24/2021 at 4:23 PM, CPRTN said: Hello, I have a Klipsch R-112SW that was left on and eventually failed. I was unaware it was left on. I tried to play audio one day and heard a pulsating tick coming from the woofer. The ticks are about a second apart. I unplugged the woofer and pulled the amp out. I am assuming the same resistor and caps are possibly cooked. Visually the R39 is cooked. What would you guys recommend replacing in this case besides R39? I had the same issue on my R-112SW and replace beside the resistor, capacitors in front and the one on both sides. Here my shopping list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicago42 Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 On 11/17/2021 at 6:25 AM, AlphaBass said: Hello @ngen33r! Thank you for sharing so much great information about these repairs. My R-115SW started intermittently cutting out more and more frequently, so I watched several of your repair videos and prepared to order a new resister and caps from DigiKey for a full recap. Imagine my surprise when I opened up the sub and found that it already had a giant 10W resister from the factory! I don't see any evidence of overheating on the resister or any of the caps. Any suggestions on what could cause it to intermittently cut out (complete loss of volume) for a few seconds at a time and then go back to regular volume? The cut-outs seem to have gotten more and more frequent to the point that it is no longer usable. I have not observed any distortion or clipping or other symptoms. My first choice would be to sent it to you for repair, but it looks like you must be backed up enough that you are not accepting repairs, so I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction to do it myself. (I do have electronics repair background and tools, so the desoldering and resoldering is no problem.) Did replacing the caps fix your problem? My amp is now doing the exact same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPRTN Posted December 1, 2021 Share Posted December 1, 2021 On 11/26/2021 at 4:03 PM, RoZis said: I had the same issue on my R-112SW and replace beside the resistor, capacitors in front and the one on both sides. Here my shopping list Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazdaLaVista Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 Hello. I have samme issue. R-115SW. Amplifier shuts off as soon as it needs to put out some juice. I think I will change the resistor and 3 caps surrounding it first. Only visible damage (from heat) , is on the 820ohm resistor and the 330uf 16V cap (C18). Would you recommend changing the resistor to higher wattage, or does it have no impact? Also I wonder what ripple current the 22uf 50V and 330uf 16V caps should have. As far as I can see from specs. The higher hourcount they are made for.. The higher ripple current. But that at the same time mean more heat. cant find any spec on the original Ketuo ones used from factory. @ngen33r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVALOS Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 On 11/20/2021 at 9:14 PM, DAVALOS said: Hi everyone, @ngen33r I did the full replacement of all capacitors on the PCB below (old picture) on my R115SW, also replaced the transistor. No change at all, green light ON, still no sound, completely quiet. Even when I plug or unplug the RCA cinch cable, no noise at all from the speaker. The speaker is good I tested it. You talked about the PWM IC that may have failed. Do you have more information ? Where is this PWM IC located on the board ? Thanks ! Hi everyone, I still need a bit of help help to fix my amp. The green circled resistor show 1.87 kOhm instead of 3.2 kOhm. Should it be the cause of my failure ? I will be thankfull of anyone could help me to repair it. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngen33r Posted December 14, 2021 Author Share Posted December 14, 2021 On 12/6/2021 at 4:01 PM, DAVALOS said: Hi everyone, I still need a bit of help help to fix my amp. The green circled resistor show 1.87 kOhm instead of 3.2 kOhm. Should it be the cause of my failure ? I will be thankfull of anyone could help me to repair it. Thanks guys You need to remove all that glue and then retest. Look up the data sheet for the chip in the picture. See which pin is the power pin and check to see if it has 12V. The resistors are fine, don't worry about them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBass Posted December 15, 2021 Share Posted December 15, 2021 On 12/1/2021 at 7:51 AM, Chicago42 said: Did replacing the caps fix your problem? My amp is now doing the exact same thing. @Chicago42 unfortunately, I have not replaced the caps yet. In ngen33r's response, he mentioned that the glue doesn't need to all be removed (maybe it doesn't have the same issue of becoming conductive?), but there is a ton of the glue that is there, so it's going to take a bit of work to do the repair. I'll post when I'm done whether it worked or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magekefa Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 ZD 6 what is this for typ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo 2022 Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Hello I have a KLIPSCH R-115SW WANT TO KNOW WHAT THE CAPACITORS ARE NEED TO REPLACE ALL OF THEM YOU CAN CONTACT ME AT loharwado2016@yahoo.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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