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budget subwoofer


JasN00b

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Driving under the influence?

I think you meant DIY, or do it yourself. In that case easy call. Adire Audio Tempest, Adire AVA250 or Parts Express 300-794 plate amp.

Then follow one of the three plans in this file:

http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/VentedTempestApplications.PDF

Or copy one of these:

http://www.io.com/~patman/sunosub2.html

http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/sonostart.php (my sub)

Although if this is an option, definately do it instead:

http://www.f20.parsimony.net/forum36475/ (note the FAQ and pics links at the top of the page.)

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It's an infinite baffle. The driver opperates essentially free air but you issolate the front and back waves so they can't cancel each other (two different rooms, room and attic, upstairs room to basement, basement room to upstairs, room to crawl space; just have to be two isolated spaces). To work properly you should have a space for the back side of the driver that is minimum 4x, preferrable 10x or more the combined Vas of the drivers used.

The only sub that could possibly have better sound quality would be a dipole. They are also always excursion limited, not power limited. It takes very little power to push a driver to its limits when operated in free air. Also use enough drivers and very few subs could keep up output wise as well. Parts Express has a 15" driver designed for this use. $110 each when 2 or more are bought. Start with two of those and a QSC RMX850 amp ($299; although do some looking as any decent amp that will put out 100W for each driver will be more than enough). Build the manifold to support four. Then when you have the money add two more drivers and you'll be in bass heaven.

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Not entirely sure. But I'd think 2 of the Dayton IB15 or Tempest drivers should be able to give an Ultra a run for its money.

You have to consider that an IB is just a very large sealed sub. While the Ultra is a ported one. But best case for the Ultra would be a little over 2.5L of Vd, but the bass reflex design gives it some major help in the lowend down to its tuning point. Using 2 of each, the IB15 would be 4.8L, the Tempest 5.1L and the AV15 would be 7.4L of Vd.

The Dayton has a very well suited Qts and is very cheap. The Tempest can be run RDO to get the Qts to a great value and is reasonably priced as well (buying multiple I'm sure you can get price breaks here). The AV15 can't be run RDO so the Qts is a little low. But many people are quite satisfied with an over damped IB so it might not bother you at all (but 2 of these will put you over budget).

If you do some used deal hunting, you might find a suitable amp cheap that will bring a 4 driver IB into your budget.

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If you can do an IB, do it. But carefully read the FAQ on that link above and don't hesitate to ask any questions about it.

Next to a well designed dipole sub an IB has no equal when it comes to sound quality. And with enough drivers they can be kings of output too. Like I said earlier, if your budget won't allow 4, do two now, but build the manifold to support 4. Then when funds permit buy 2 more drivers if the two you haven't don't put out enough bass for your tastes.

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http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htforum/showthread.php?&postid=523602#post523602

You may find that useful. I think you are asking about what is usually called a subsonic or rumble filter. These are just a high pass filter with a corner frequency that is down very low (usually 16-25hz). These filters roll off the really deep bass protecting a driver from over excursion.

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I am building two sonosubs.

24x36" sonotubes were $30 each

solid wood round caps were $18 pair (26 inch)

Shiva 12's (2) totally $250

Amps (PE 250 Watt) (price for two) $240

two 4" ports $12 each

That goes to

60+36+250+240+24=$610 for TWO sonosubs! That is a ton of output! You can do just 1 sonosub for... well half that price.

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