rewiring without soldering

[STL]

Would there be much benefit to replacing the internal wiring in my Klipschs with some better speaker wire, like Monster Cable XP or XP-HP, but not soldering the speaker connections (instead using speaker disconnects like the OEM wiring)? Has anyone already tried this?

[Frzninvt]

I am a firm believer in soldered connections wherever possible. Crimp on connectors can possibly come loose, ad resistance and the less different types of metals that you have in the speaker wire path the better. I rewired my Belle's with 12GA OFC Monster Cable as the old zip cord had become stiff and oxidized. I also replaced all the spade lugs with gold plated ones that terminate at the crossover and treated the connections with Caig's ProGold. I even replaced all the short leads on the crossover itself. I even removed the small terminal block that was housed between the horn and bass sections and applied generous amounts of epoxy and silicone to ensure a goos seal. I can't they there was a huge difference in sound, but I felt better that everything was fresh. Just food for thought!

[Cut-Throat]

I just finished re-wiring one of my Belles and I agree with the previous poster. Get a good soldering iron!

- I replaced the old wire with 16 gauge OFC wire. Soldered the ends as before and covered the solder joints with heatshrink, so that they won't corrode.

I continued to use the clips as before for convienence, but I soldered to clips to the wires and covered with heat shrink.

I don't really expect to hear a difference either, but I had the whole speaker apart for refinishing, so I thought new wire could not hurt either. Plus I had to have something to do waiting for the varnish to dry

[STL]

I already have a good soldering station so that is not the issue. I am considering using speaker disconnects (like this: ) instead of soldering to the speaker terminals strictly out of convenience. Using disconnects would simplify the rewiring process and make it much easier to remove drivers in the future.

[Cut-Throat]

It will work and if that's what you want to do - do it.

The real point is how often are you going to need to remove these clips from the drivers? - Never again probably.

That is why I would use solder. They won't sound any different at first, but down the road if corrosion gets between the clip and the contact you may not hear any sound at all. This is not that likely to happen, just as you having a need to remove the clip from the driver is not likely to happen.

But I will tell you this. I had an set of Pioneer Speakers that I moved into a different room a couple of years ago. One day I was listening to the radio and it sounded funny. I discovered the tweeter was no longer working. I pulled off the back cover (16 screws) and saw a clip exactly like the one in your picture had fallen off the contact of the driver.

I like solder much better.

[Malcolm]

[Malcolm]

IMHO fast-on connectors will work just fine as long as you use the appropriate size so you get a solid connection. I would both crimp and solder the connectors to the wire. I have used them in the past with no problems.

[WMcD]

I would generally advocate the use of a push on connector if the speaker is designed for it. This is particularly so in the case of the midrange and tweeters. I don't quite trust my soldering skills to be so good that I would not compromise the other end of the connector; i.e. where the voice coil is connected. The connection is not particularly accessable. (The risk is that if the mechanical connection is too tight, you might damage the connection when taking it apart.)

Recently I've been using push ons for the woofer too. However, if you're convinced a solder connection is necessary, I don't see a big problem. The tinsle connection to the voice coil is accessable.

The next question seems to be whether it is necessary to solder the lead wire to the push on, or just rely upon the crimping process.

A lot of people have pointed out that crimping can create a very reliable "Mil spec" connection. However, I understand that Mil spec connections are made with a special ratching crimp tool. It will not release until the full crip is accomplished.

I'd also point out that the crimping action relies on the correct size wire being used. When I'm using smaller wire (yeah, I know) I double it back to increase the effective thickness.

The bottom line is that I crimp and solder connections to push on connectors to the components. It is braces and belts, but I know it is correct.

OTOH, I often use just the crimping when putting spade lugs on the end of speaker feed wires. This is usually part of some temporary wiring. (Given my nature to tinker, most wiring is temporary.) I've never had a problem unless there is obvious mechanical looseness. Sometimes it takes a good crunch on the crimping tool.

Now you know what I think, but everyone has an opinion.

Gil

[djk]

Klipsch speakers always sound better after being re-wired.

Any kind of wire.

It has nothing to do with the wire used.

It has to do with getting rid of the push-on connectors at the drivers.

Prior to about 1985 all drivers were wired with zip-cord but soldered.

Taking a brand new Klipsch speaker on the dealer showroom floor, cutting off the push-on connectors, and soldering direct to the drivers, made an audible improvement in the sound.

Six identical speakers were used. Various wire from Monster Cable, Audio Quest, and the cheezy stock wire (sans connectors).

It wasn't the wire.