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Questions on RF-7's and amp selection.


Klipsch RF7

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Hi Guys,

I currently have a Rotel RSX-1055 Reciever running the power to my Klipsch RF-3 II's that are using Monster Cable Z series Biwire. What i would like to know is that if i goto the RF-7's will i notice more fuller and richer sound? Also ive reading that the Klipsch like to have a good amp to power them, I was think of getting a nice 200wx2 Rotel RB-991 stereo 2channel amp to power them. And what is the crossover mod?

Thanks

Georg F. Handel

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Hey Georg:

Dig that "Messiah" tune.

I moved from the RF-3 to the RF-7 (edit). RF-3 is a great speaker for the price, the RF-7 moved you to another level. I don't think you'll get the most bang for the buck with your proposed choice of Rotel amp. More watts per channel is not what is critical for RF-7's. CLEAN amplification, especially at the amp's lower output levels matters most. I chose to drive my RF-7's with a Monarchy Audio SM-70 Pro. This amp only put out about 30 WPC, but is biased to class A operation, is built like a tank, and drives the RF-7's exceedingly well, even at higher volumes. But the key is the class A bias, which gives the RF-7's alot of clean amplification to work with.

Many here on the forum choose low power tube amps for their Klipsch, and swear by the results.

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What's the size of your room? If you have a dorm sized room the rf-7s will do nothing for you probably will not notice the difference from the rf5 to the rf7s if ya have alot of room then consider the bigger speaker. Have you tried playing around with speaker placement? You will be surprized how much that changes a speakers sound. Rf7s are not cheap!!!!!!2.gif

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I found my SM-70 Pro's used on Audiogon. They arrived here for about $500 including shipping, and were from an authorized dealer.

The SE-100's are well reviewed, but are also Monoblock-only operation. The SM-70's perform well in stereo mode, and can be bridged for monoblock operation (this is supposed to be where the amp really shines). They are truly the best bang for the buck monoblocks you can buy. As a value for stereo, at their retail price of almost $1000, they are not much of a value. Used pricing, the value improves significantly. Don't know of too many Class A amps that sound as good for the price. As a mono-block, show me a pair of monoblocks that can be had used for under $1000 that outperform these.

I'm VERY satisfied with the performance gains that I've experienced with the SM-70 Pro in stereo mode.

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The important thing here is how far away you sit from the speakers. Also, do you typically sit in front of them while listening, or is this the kind of room where you tend to move around in while listening? I'm trying to figure out how much power you really need.

Dean

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Georg:

Monoblock is a term used to describe an amplifier that is designed or set up to amplify a single stereo channel. Thus, you would need two monoblock amps to amplify two stereo channels. The SE 100 is designed for monoblock operation only. The SM-70's are switchable between stereo amd mono operation.

The SM-70 does not need to be run in balanced mode to be used as a monoblock. However, the amp is said to offer its best performance when used as a fully balanced monoblock.

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The Yamaha M65, M80 play class A up to about 30 watts before switching to class a/b. I have two in my HT set up and really like them.

However in class A mode, you have to press a button for this, they run incredibly hot. You would need some good air space to place these.

Just an option. You can buy these on e-bay for around $300.00.

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If you do not want tubes, Class A is the way to go..one model to come to mind is the Sugden A21 25W Class A amplifier. try to find it on Audiogon.(Was suggested this and I did hear this later...Very Smooth)

I moved to a budget setup with the NAD 320BEE and am quite happywith it..bUt the Sugden sounds much better although only 25WpCH

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----------------

On 11/22/2003 10:11:07 AM leok wrote:

I'll add a vote for class A ss if you don't use tubes. Also, 25 Watts will deliver 114dB at 1M with those RF-7s. That'll cause plenty of hearing damage in the room you described.

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114dB would indeed be dangerous listening to all day. But for milliseconds here and there it is not going to hurt anything. 25 watts or whatever amount of power in that range is not so that you can run your amp all day putting out 25 watts. It's so that when the music requires the power to handle instantaneous peaks, the amp can do so without clipping.

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What Paul said is pretty much what I meant. Maybe the way he said it is easier to understand. I tend to listen at lower avarage levels than many and so find 3.5 Watts, for peaks, generally does the trick and 8 Watts supplies all the reserve I ever need for "loud." Less than 4 X as loud as my max requirement plus a little reserve gets you up to that 25 Watts. What you do risk with higher power amps is distortion and doise that begins to creep into the lower power range. So, If you go for a higher power amp, especially one that is not clas A, give it a good audition. Listen for harshness and smeared or accentuated sibilances (sounds such as "S" "t" "sh").

Leo

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