garymd Posted January 4, 2004 Author Share Posted January 4, 2004 Greg, They look perfect! From the photos they look to be almost an exact match. Absolutely beautiful! Don't change a thing. The linseed oil is all they need. I kind of thought that would be the case since that was all that they did at the factory with my corns (except it was satin laquer). What more can I say? The emblems look great on them also. BTW - I'll put the emblems on myself with 2-sided tape (at least until they fall off). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 Gary, I,ve been listening to my Heresys all night tonight on a 299b with new caps and tubes. You are absolutely spoiling your son!!!! These things are too good for an eighteen year old, wet behind the ears college freshman. Save them for his wedding gift! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted January 5, 2004 Author Share Posted January 5, 2004 ---------------- On 1/5/2004 10:24:04 PM 3dzapper wrote: Gary, I,ve been listening to my Heresys all night tonight on a 299b with new caps and tubes. You are absolutely spoiling your son!!!! These things are too good for an eighteen year old, wet behind the ears college freshman. Save them for his wedding gift! Rick ---------------- Almost 21 year old Junior but you're right. I already told him he's getting the kenwood instead. He's not ready for tubes quite yet. It'll be hard to let go of the heresys too. I'll bet they'll sound great in my soon-to-be den (his bedroom) with the fisher. I may have to find him some used fortes or heresys or RF3s. Greg's doing too nice a job to let them go, even to family! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 2 coats of polyurethane are on. I'm going to let them dry real good before sanding. There's all kinds of little fibers in the finish from the cloth that I used to put the oil on with. That zebrawood is very brittle and rough, even after sanding down to 240 grit, there are thousands of little porous holes that catch the fibers of any cloth or paper towel that comes near them! A tack cloth was of no use. I could feel the roughness even after the first coat of poly was sanded. So anyway, I sanded between these two coats, but I'm going to really sand good this next time and hopefully the porousness has filled in and smoothed out so I can get on with putting a nice finish on them. The Minwax clear wipe-on poly that I'm using is really cool. It's like a cross between an oil and a polyurethane, or a real oily polyurethane. It goes on very thin like a thinned out linseed oil would go on but it dries very clear like lacquer. There's no clouding or heavy buildup like can happen with multiple coats of urethane. I used to think this was a cheesy homeowner finish because it was so easy to wipe on, but I really like the end result and I think you will too. If I can just get the 2642 tiny little fibers sanded out! GRRRRRR!!! I think this is where a sanding sealer was supposed to be used. I'm glad to hear the color is a good match. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted January 5, 2004 Author Share Posted January 5, 2004 Greg, Zebrawood is pretty porous to begin with. My corns have had pores showing since day 1. I don't know if it's possible to seal it completely without the brush-on stuff. Thanks for all your hard work. Just think how great those khorns are going to look after all this practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Greg, Have you ever worked with walnut veneer? I was looking at some on ebay, it looks like it has a potato chip type consistancy. Is it really like that? Looks like the walnut burl is not flat at all. Any experiance at all? anybody? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 I went out to look at the finish on the Heresy's this morning and I can't see the little fibers at all now. Go figure. I can feel a little roughness, but no matter how I shine the light on them I can't see the fibers. When I first put the poly on, the light would show every fiber. That's how I counted them, in case you were wondering. I'm going to give them another day to dry completely before sanding and recoating. One more coat may do it. They are looking really nice! Tom: No I haven't worked with walnut veneer, everything I've worked with so far has been backed veneer. The zebrawood is the first REAL veneer I've worked with. Walnut looks much tighter grained than the zebrawood, it looks it would be real nice to work with. I've been told that any burled veneer is a pain due to the holes and pieces chipping out etc... Those would be difficult. Nice looking though. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Greg, I used the Min-Wax on my projects, applyied by hand rubbing, using 000 steel wool between coats and got a fine finish. Tom, Burl is veeery dificult to work with. It is brittle and as you said does not like to lie straight because of the complex grain structure. It is best used for small projects and inlays. Pro's can apply burl to large surfaces such as table tops, etc. but, how many failures preceeded their success? And, pro's typically set the veneer to the substrait using a vacuum press to apply even setting pressure. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 How about just regular walnut veneer? Not the burl stuff. Is it more workable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tillmbil Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Where are the new pictures? I do not see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Rick, that's a great idea, I think I'll try that. Do you use the Minwax with the steel wool, or just the steel wool between coats dry? Tom, regular walnut should be fairly easy to work with. It's a nice wood, which is why you see it used quite often on speakers and component cabinets. Eh Em, that was, I mean, back when they used to build speakers with real wood and put components into real wood cabinets. O.k., that was a little unfair, there are a lot of companies still using nice wood veneers on their speakers, but there are an aweful lot of black boxes out there! William, I checked and they are all there. Is this a "refresh" thing maybe? Try pressing control and clicking refresh. Tom can you see the newer pictures? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Tom, Yes regular walnut veneer is much easier to work with. And you can find some very high quality figured walnut veneers if you look around. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2585492085&category=41502 Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 tillmbil, look at this page. If you go there and don't see the new pics at the bottom, hold down the shift key and hit the F5 key to do a forced refresh. Greg and Rick, Thanks for the input on the walnut. Turns out there's a local woodworkers place not too far from me here. I'm going to stop by there, look around. In order to wrap around the sides and top it would require pieces over 5 ft long, not so many of those. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Greg, Can you put an active link into your post/posts? Thanks -- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 See Tom's post above for an active link. Oh what the heck, I'll try Tom's code that he sent me and see if it works. Heresy Re-veneer Page. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Looks OK to me. you can just paste in any URL you want between the double quotes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 6, 2004 Share Posted January 6, 2004 Greg, I applied it by hand rubbing (I used a blue nitrile glove), and steel wooled after 24 hrs between the three coats. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Gary's speakers are all done now. I think they look very nice. See the new pictures and information up on the photo-essay by clicking here. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Greg, They look really nice. I can certainly appreciate all thework you put into them. At least it is visible work too. Gary, those should look great with the other zebrawood speaks you have. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Greg, I just took a look at the finised product. They look super! Congratulations and a well earned pat on the back for your hard work. Your reasoning as to the value of custom finishing to new is also valid. If someone was to buy Khorns for $1200, invest $1200 in a custom veneer job and $1800 for the latest crossover and drivers, or $500 for a set of ALKs for $2900 to $4200 they would have brand new, custom, Klipschorns. In a finish to match their wife's furniture and approval. The best of all worlds. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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