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Z brackets?


ttaylor

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Ditto- midrange horn too? Im starting to dismantle my Heresys and possibly LSs for re-veneering/xo mods and thought that I would change the drivers to front/flush mounting while Im at it. Not too worried about the woodworking aspect, just whether it will make a noticable difference. Ive read that it does on the tweeter but how about the midhorn? Worth the work?

ttaylor

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Hello Everyone! For anyone that wants to add the Z brackets to KHorn or Belle it is possible to enlarge the tweeter hole without removing the grille cloth if you can use a hand router. I bought a pair of (79)KHorns in 1990 and decided to use the Z brackets after hearing the difference in the tweeter range between a Lascala and a Belle(with Z brackets)cabinet(same drivers were used in both). I had owned both and was pretty familiar with how they sounded. they were both used in the same room with the same equipment and I heard better clarity and smoothness in the tweeter's freq. range on the Belle and so I felt it would be well worth the effort to me!!!

I removed the Tweeter/Squaker mounting board and then removed the horns from it.I then made a protective plate by using masking tape over some aluminum flashing and slide this between the grille cloth and baffle thus spacing the cloth away from the Tweeter hole and protecting it from damage.I then made a picture frame style guide and centered and clamped it to the baffle board so that my hand router could cut out the correct size hole.I made several passes till the hole was enlarged all the way through and then used flat black paint on the enlarged hole.

I hope this helps anyone that wants to try this modification or maybe someone can come up with an even better idea?1.gif

mikeb.

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The Z-brackets are only for the tweeter. The squawker doesn't need it. The shortest wavelength the squawker is suposed to carry, 6k Hz, is 2.25 inches. The motorboard is 3/4".

Since a Heresy is a sealed cabinet, it cannot use Z-brackets.

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FWIW, when I looked at doing that mod to my La Scala, Klipsch techs indicated that the change would barely be noticeable. In that techs opinion, the change to the cabinet and loss of "original" would not be justified for that small a change.

I took his advice and left things alone.

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----------------

On 2/17/2004 6:19:10 PM BackBurner wrote:

So whats the deal, is the cabinet interfering with the mouth of the tweeter ?

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This is what the Electro-Voice brochure recommends for mounting the EV T35A same as klipsch K77.

The rear surface of the speaker baffle should be routed out to bring the portion of the baffle on which the tweeter is mounted down from the usual 3/4" to 1/4". While a 3/8" thick baffle has only a moderate effect limited to downward deviations of 1-2dB a 3/4" thick baffle provides considerable downward deviations in the 4000-5500Hz range of up to 7 dB and should be avoided unless the tweeter is crossed over at 6000Hz or above. Note: the deviations described affect only the on-axis frequency response. The total output of the tweeter is essentially unaffected. Therfore, the audible effect of the baffle edge diffraction is not as great as the on-axis response deviations themselves would indicate.

Even though klipsch uses a 6000Hz crossover I believe this effect is audible especially for any who listen on axis of the tweeter.The Z-brackets are a great solution for mounting the tweeter.This modification isn't a night and day type change but its effect is a cleaner and smoother sound in this range and thats what we are trying to achieve with alot of our tweeking.

Can anyone tell me if the Klipschorn in the Audio/Nov. 1986 review had the Z-bracket modification and what drivers/crossover where in this Klipschorn?

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I guess that I will find another way of mounting the tweeters flush. Since I will already have the cabinets dismantled, the extra work entailed in modding the baffle shouldnt be overwhelming. Although mounting the drivers from behind was standard once, Ive not seen a modern speaker, horn or otherwise, that still does. The exception being the ones that use a thin, metal or composite baffle plates that then mount to the actual enclosure baffle.

taylor

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Thanks for the info John! I wasn't aware of the Type AA being 4800Hz crossover. My 79 KHorns had already been updated to the AK-2 crossover and K-55-M squawker when I bought them in late 1990. I know the AK-2 was also designed with the K-77-M tweeter flush mounted on the motor board. I've also changed the T5A autotransformer to the AK-3 T4A autotransformer which runs the squawker about 2dB louder and will maybe convert it to a full AK-3 crossover after seeing what others have thought about the AK-2 versus AK-3. I definitly liked the autotransformer change.

By the way I live just a few hours from Chattanooga. I've been there a few times some really nice sites.

The View from Rock City at night during the Christmas holidays was beautiful!

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  • 19 years later...

Hello , 

I plan to install Z brackets on K77 klipsch cornwall 1 . Few questions

1 )  the cornwall motorboard need to have a bigger hole for the k77 , the cutting must fit exactly the edge of the horn tweeter ?

2 ) What about the sealing between k77 and the cabinet ? If the hole is not exactly fitting with the tweeter , air pass through ..

Thank you dor your answers in advance 

Bernard ( from France ) 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello Marvel , 

I realy don t understand your commentary . On a klipsch Cornwall one , iI suppose it s possible to install K77 with z brakets inside the cabinet ( we can access in the cabinet by remove the back panel ..)

My original question was about the klipsch k77 and the increased hole to install it . no Problem of sealant ? 

Thanks in advance for your answers  

 

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