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DIY Crossover Upgrades


Deang

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I've even heard some people say caps are subject to the magnetic fields of the woofer, which is not good too. I don't know ...maybe that's BS.

Perhaps this explains why some speaker manufacturers have gone to putting even passive xovers external to the speaker monkey coffin. For example, the Living Voice Avatar OBX uses a totally external xover. No need for hot melt then. In fact, I think this is exactly what I may do one day with my Fortes.

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Hi Dean,

I have a few questions. 1) is the solder critical? I have some .032 rosin core 60/40 solder on hand. 2) could I use the tip of a small round rat tail jewelers saw for reaming the holes bigger instead of drilling them? I am afraid of twisting off the foil on the board. Thanks, Bob Melnik

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It will sound cleaner, smoother, and more open. No hash/grain, and less harsh when driven hard.

Bob, I'm sending some WBT high content silver solder with the parts. As far as the holes go -- let common sense prevail. If you have a way of doing it that seems easier or better for you -- try it. If you happen to lift some foil, don't sweat it -- just scratch through the coating down to the copper (the whole PCB is copper) next to the hole. Bend your lead over onto the copper surface and solder.

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Are you joking? You might be able to get one or two things there (and even that is a big maybe). Since you are going to have to mail/online order anyhow you might as well get to know www.partsexpress.com . Their selection and pricing blows away Radio Shack!

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I covered basic tools and provided the link to partsexpress at the beginning of thread. Any person interested in doing this kind of thing has to self-motivate, and be willing to do some homework. Due to the subject of DIY and soldering coming up in another thread, I went out last night with Google and in less than 30 seconds found a half dozen sites providing on-line tutorials. There is no shortage on the web with information from everything to anything -- use it.

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Hi Bob,

So far so good.

Attached is the Forte II schematic. Doesn't look like you need to worry about replacing the 39 ohm resistor with the 40.2 ohm Mills I sent. The tolerance on that 39 ohm resistor is + or - 10%, and if you were to measure it you would see it comes in a bit past 39.5 -- which is why Klipsch probably used it. The Mills is within 1%, and they're all typically dead on.

It doesn't matter which way you situate the caps, even though some try to say it does. You're fine. Looks good!

D

post-3205-13819259750728_thumb.jpg

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Proffessor Dean, Does this pass?

KG4.5xo.jpg

The OE caps are to the left. I know, those aren't "designer" caps. These are KG-4.5s for cryin' out loud!7.gif

I had already done the other one months ago and finished the internal mods to the enclosure yesterday. I'll take pics of the mods on this, second, one and if they sound markedly better, I'll post a thread. (If they don't I'll never tell!2.gif )

Rick

post-12829-13819259755458_thumb.jpg

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I've been trained by a retired EE audio hobby lunatic that has nothing better to do than lurk Ebay for his audio "sickness".

He sells quite a bit of stuff too.

I agree, it is drag. If I really want or need something I go for it, mostly for parts.

When you hit a auction of interest, rap with the seller a couple times before the auction ends, or before you bid.

They don't reply, selah...

They seem to have a bad attitude, see ya!

If it seems shaky, RUN!

Sometimes they are very helpful, and may even work with you obtaining bulk at a good price, who knows.....

I met that EE through Ebay.

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