jwc Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 I just put primer and paint on my CW1's. After the second coat of paint, I have considered lightly sanding them to get a better shine and a "better evenly distributed" paint surface. They are gloss black and look great right now. My wife thinks I'm done. I could live with it. definately a good gloss and rich black. Much like my Black laquer La Scalas. However, I can look at a certain angle with bright light and see slight imperfections in how the paint was applied. Now do your best to not blast me here. My wife hates the stained veneer "look" and likes the Black. I also didn't spray paint these but used a foam roller. I have read past threads that describe sanding the paint. Any sugestions on doing this? Do I have to apply more paint after each sand job? What grit should I use? Is the sanding the last step? Should I end with some sort of finish such as aa wax and then sand again? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 24, 2005 Share Posted March 24, 2005 I think you should use 320 grit with a sanding block. That will knock down any high spots and prepare the first layer for the second. Care must be used at the edges. Then you should wipe the paint down with a tack rag and or vacuum away the dust. The second coat is going to be a lot more smooth than the first. My thought is that you will be best off just living with the results rather than a polishing routine. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 ---------------- On 3/24/2005 9:10:42 PM jwcullison wrote: I just put primer and paint on my CW1's. After the second coat of paint, I have considered lightly sanding them to get a better shine and a "better evenly distributed" paint surface. ---------------- Just in case, may I ask what type of paint? All lacquers and most oil paints are sandable but most water based paints are not. I've done several types of finishes, and when it comes to the finish coats I personally prefer wet sanding with 600 or 800 grit depending on the dept of the imperfections. Since I'm usually not looking to fill larger imperfections with the last coat, I usually just use my hands with the bare paper. It gives good control at removing only the top portions of worst specks and humps... and I too avoid the edges at all costs. This is basically how I did the clear coat finish on my Heresys, Cornwalls, and Sub Obviously the speaker components have to be removed for safety. Good luck... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 25, 2005 Author Share Posted March 25, 2005 It is an acrylic latex gloss. The look is fabulous but I want a little smoother finish. That sub cabinet looks nice. What eas the last step when doing your cabinet? Was it sanding? Did you use a finish? When wiping off the paint, did you use notebook paper and keep it flat as you wiped? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 Latex? Roller? These are two things I would never advise on speakers,just my opinion.And as mentioned latex does not sand very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 25, 2005 Author Share Posted March 25, 2005 I have read many post on this forum back to several years. There was a whole bunch of ways described to paint speakers. I have learned a couple of things. 1. Spray gun is probably better than brushing or rolling 2. Local paint stores are marginally helpful. None seem to agree on anything. 3. Latex paint is hard to sand. However, I must say the finished product looks good. This Black pair of Corwalls definately look beter than my factory black laquer La Scalas. I agree with previous posts in saying that klipsch probably puts on very little paint. I don't regret not buying a spray paint gun. I figured out using a dense foam roller followed by a very soft foam brush does a good job. I could also do the job in my house. I didn't really need to sand. Trying to do this just set me back. The finish is slightly glossy and shows some of the wood grain. To see any "imperfections", you would have to get up close and the light would have to be right. This is the same for my Factory La Scalas. Thanks for the input. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted March 26, 2005 Share Posted March 26, 2005 If it looks pretty good, you might as well leave it as is. If you would like to sand it anyways... I'd recommend trying it on a scrap piece of wood with the same paints first. Given it's latex, I'd just dry sand it with fine paper. A foam roller followed by a foam brush gives pretty good results. I recently completed a large secretarial desk using that technique and a self-levelling semi-gloss varnish and it produced an excellent result. After all, it's good enough for Norm... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 26, 2005 Author Share Posted March 26, 2005 hey Rob, How did you get that varnish on there and what kind did you use? I have considered putting on some polyurethane to give even more shine. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 26, 2005 Share Posted March 26, 2005 You can't put the poly on over the latex. You could remove all the latex, but that would now be a real pain. A black poly would have been better to start with. It is a harder finish. Marvel Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 26, 2005 Author Share Posted March 26, 2005 You are probably right. Again, I got so many angles on how to do the project from this forum, I got a little frustrated. I finally just got some advice from local paint dealers. Now that the project is done, I think they look good. They are back in there corners waitin' for my crossovers to get back. I will update with a pic then. Is there any advantage to latex paint. Why did my locals recommend it? Is latex paint more durable? I noticed the paint job on my factory La Scalas is easy to scratch. The latex on my corns is like concrete. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 ouch, wish you'd written in first before using latex paint. Latex is 'liquid rubber' great for protecting a house from the elements, bad for furniture. Can't easily sand it, tough to get a good finish. Oil based paints dry slower to a much harder finish. THere is a quaility my brother, a painter calls 'leveling' that is that as the paint cures down, brush strokes and roller marks fade away. My recommendation if you were to use a paint would have been Porter Glib-tek (sp?). it is a very hard, very slow curing oil paint, I have used in on kitchen cabinets and other built-in cabinetry in several homes. It gives a nice finish (okay not as good as you guys with your lacquer spray), for a brushed on or rolled on paint product, It can be sanded down, but it actually takes 30 days for the full cure and surface texture to appear. I think I normally use eggshell finish, a satiny flat that is very scrubbable. Possibly you could sand lightly, reprine and start again? I think you would have to have a good primer coat down if you want to coat latex with oil, otherwise it will wrinkle up. There may be latex poly out there, BUT USE A TEST SAMPLE FIRST, Also remember to use high gloss only. Any 'satin' portion of poly is actually fine sand in the poly, which may give a yellow appearance which you wouldn't want on your black paint. Also in lieu of fine sandpaper or steel wool (never recommended around speakers) you might use scotch brite pads for final buffing AGAIN USE A TEST PIECE TO TRY any further surface modifications. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 27, 2005 Author Share Posted March 27, 2005 Yes Micheal, I did sand it some and it was hard. Hoever, this was manual and I'm sure a power sander would work. The "lines" you are speaking of are faded and basically unoticeable. I think I will leave them alone. I've had some friends come over and think they are a beaty. Of course, they could just being polite. Wife likes them too. Micheal, I have a bunch of "better" projects on the way. I typically wanted his to be quick and it was. I did it all "in my house". Crazy huh. There was no mess. If I get board in the future, I may just resand them, reprime them and use an oil paint. But they look to good right now for me to think of redoing that process. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 You can get water based polyurethane. Best of both worlds. Not bad for the environment, harder finish than latex and easier cleanup than oils. There are some new products like this for instrument builders, that buff to a super gloss. Marvel water based poly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 27, 2005 Author Share Posted March 27, 2005 Well, I thought I would show a picture of the result since nobody would consider my paint choice. This attached picture is from the normal light setting on my theater room. The 5.2 beside it has a glass top. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 27, 2005 Author Share Posted March 27, 2005 Sorry the picture is so big. I wanted to show you high def so you know I wasn't pulling one on you. This one is with the blinds shining right on the other speaker. The grills are custom. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 27, 2005 Author Share Posted March 27, 2005 Those little spots you see are not on the speaker but an artifact of the camera's flash and the open blinds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 dude! those look quite nice considering the budget and tools used! Just fine, got a nice lustre to them. Kinda hard to get the piano lacquer look with a roller, but those'll do nicely. Good sharp edges, btw! Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 27, 2005 Author Share Posted March 27, 2005 Thanks Michael, This was basically a practice run for me. Never have done ANY wood work before. The grill deal was new for me as well. I am debating on what to use for the next project which will be from scratch. As you can see, this worked well with VERY little money and no electric tools. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviserated Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 I am in the process of painting two small 15 liter bass reflex enclosures for my Fostex FE167 6.5" speakers. I first applied five coats of automotive lacquer primer surfacer, dry sanded (200grit orbital and hand), applied five more coats, and dry sanded (200 grit then 320 grit) smooth prior to final coat. For the final finish I will spray 3 coats of automotive high gloss black lacquer, sand with 800 grit paper or steel wool, and then buff to a high glass smooth gloss. DRI SAND ONLY, DO NOT WET SAND MDF! Paint list: 1 Gallon High Build Primer surfacer.................$45.00 1 Gallon Walmart Medium Lacquer Thinner.............$ 9.00 1 Quart Dupont Diamond Black Lacquer................$45.00 1 Gallon 70 Degree Dupont Lacquer Thinner...........$18.00 200 grit Orbial Sandpaper,320 and 800 grit Sheets.$10.00 1 Rubber Sanding Pad................................$ 5.00 1 HVLP Paint Gun from Harbor Freight................$39.00 Total..........$171.00 plus .07% tax The route I took was expensive, but for me was the fastest and easiest way to achieve a mirror gloss finish. I have 3/4 gallon of primer surfacer and 3/4 quart of black lacquer paint left over for future projects. Of course you will need an air compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviserated Posted March 27, 2005 Share Posted March 27, 2005 I am in the process of painting two small 15 liter bass reflex enclosures for my Fostex FE167 6.5" speakers. I first applied five coats of automotive lacquer primer surfacer, dry sanded (200grit orbital and hand), applied five more coats, and dry sanded (200 grit then 320 grit) smooth prior to final coat. For the final finish I will spray 3 coats of automotive high gloss black lacquer, sand with 800 grit paper or steel wool, and then buff to a high glass smooth gloss. DRY SAND ONLY, DO NOT WET SAND MDF! Supply list: 1 Gallon High Build Primer surfacer.................$45.00 1 Gallon Walmart Medium Lacquer Thinner.............$ 9.00 1 Quart Dupont Diamond Black Lacquer................$45.00 1 Gallon Matching Dupont 70 Lacquer Thinner...........$18.00 200 grit Orbial Sandpaper,320 and 800 grit Sheets.$10.00 1 Rubber Sanding Pad................................$ 5.00 1 HVLP Paint Gun from Harbor Freight................$39.00 Total..........$171.00 plus .07% tax The route I took was expensive, but for me was the fastest and easiest way to achieve a mirror gloss finish. I have 3/4 gallon of primer surfacer and 3/4 quart of black lacquer paint left over for future projects. Of course you will need an air compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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